Lopi AGP Pellet Stove Insert

[phil from barrington]

Wow...what a find! I'm sure that number is a well guarded secret.

They've probably discontinued answering customers and deal only with their dealers, which is probably a smart thing to do.

 

[elliott353]

In looking into the outside vs inside air intake issue I've found more questions than answers. Indoor air maintains even pressure; outside air is subject to significant pressure changes which affect draw; your dryer pulls more air than your stove and vents it right outside; outside air has to be heated but has more volume of oxygen. I can't really get a good answer -- so I might just try it both ways and see what happens. I got a 2 inch x 5 ft piece of duct that I can run thru the rockwool. I just need a dry warmish day to get on the roof to drill a hole into the plate for air draw. I can always cover it back up later if needed.

 

[phil from barrington]

In looking into the outside vs inside air intake issue I've found more questions than answers. Indoor air maintains even pressure; outside air is subject to significant pressure changes which affect draw; your dryer pulls more air than your stove and vents it right outside; outside air has to be heated but has more volume of oxygen. I can't really get a good answer -- so I might just try it both ways and see what happens. I got a 2 inch x 5 ft piece of duct that I can run thru the rockwool. I just need a dry warmish day to get on the roof to drill a hole into the plate for air draw. I can always cover it back up later if needed.

Is this information provided to you by Travis or is it something you've researched? It sounds like you might be over-thinking it a bit, maybe. The option is right there in the manual so you'd think there is no issue with pressure or temperature of the air. Most freestanding stoves require outside air. I, personally think outside air is the way to go, unless there's evidence to the contrary. Seeing how my dealer won't be here to install my new stove until 1/18, I'll wait and see how you do before I cut my baffle plate. That is if you decide to post results here. How will you prevent water from entering the opening in the top plate?

 

[elliott353]

I was looking online and found a couple of articles that said that using outside air is a throwback, and more important for tightly sealed homes and mobile homes. This website had an interesting discussion regarding pressure differences: http://www.woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html. I'm still going to give it a try lacking definitive evidence not to. Once I cut the hole (probably ~ 1.5 inches), I'll either get a prefab vent cover or make one from a piece of aluminum and screw it down facing away from the exhaust duct. I can always cover it later if it's a bust. I have the luxury of being able to step out my daughter's bedroom window onto the roof by the chimney. Oh and, yeah, I have too much time on my hands -- but if it works it's all good.

 

[phil from barrington]

I was looking online and found a couple of articles that said that using outside air is a throwback, and more important for tightly sealed homes and mobile homes. This website had an interesting discussion regarding pressure differences: http://www.woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html. I'm still going to give it a try lacking definitive evidence not to. Once I cut the hole (probably ~ 1.5 inches), I'll either get a prefab vent cover or make one from a piece of aluminum and screw it down facing away from the exhaust duct. I can always cover it later if it's a bust. I have the luxury of being able to step out my daughter's bedroom window onto the roof by the chimney. Oh and, yeah, I have too much time on my hands -- but if it works it's all good.

I didn't read that whole article, maybe half of it. I'm pretty sure they're talking about natural air flow and how pressure affects draft and draw. I had those issues when I was using my fireplace and wood stove in the basement with wood as a heat source. You're at the mercy of the weather and whatever the pressure of the day is doing to get the maximum benefit, which hardly ever happens. With a pellet stove, you require a constant flow of air to get max benefit. The combustion blower provides that flow and shouldn't be affected by pressure gradients. My 2 cents. Can't wait for your results. I have alot time on my hands too. Here I am answering you at 4:15 in the AM....and I'm retired!

 

[elliott353]

FWIW...I put a 2 inch by 5 ft piece of duct on the air intake and ran it up through the rockwool into the chimney cavity. Now I can't explain why but it seems to be burning better. Not to the point of getting significantly more heat, but clearly burning better. Less drop off of the flame (stove thermostat off). However, due to the weather and having an insufficient drill bit I haven't been able to drill the opening in the chimney plate yet. I still plan to do this when the rain stops, but the chimney cavity is clearly not air tight. I could probably leave it like this, but OCD being what it is...

 

[phil from barrington]

FWIW...I put a 2 inch by 5 ft piece of duct on the air intake and ran it up through the rockwool into the chimney cavity. Now I can't explain why but it seems to be burning better. Not to the point of getting significantly more heat, but clearly burning better. Less drop off of the flame (stove thermostat off). However, due to the weather and having an insufficient drill bit I haven't been able to drill the opening in the chimney plate yet. I still plan to do this when the rain stops, but the chimney cavity is clearly not air tight. I could probably leave it like this, but OCD being what it is...

Well, I think you're onto it. Seeing how it's burning better with no other adjustments, that tells me you're getting a better draw from the chimney. Now I wonder why better isn't hotter. You should at least be getting warmer due to not drawing room air into the stove. Are you 'cranking the throttle' any? Maybe the air flow adjustment needs to be tinkered with until you find that sweet spot. I get good heat once I dial it past about 5:00-6:00 o'clock on the dial with my air flow damper set at about 1/2 way. Today I'd be able to heat the house to 68/69 or so with the dial at around 3:00 o'clock.. 43 degrees here in Barrington. My house is wide open too, but not real long. Over-head fans help to distribute the heat. Also, you hit it right on the head in your first post....you recognized that you won't get the same heat with a pellet stove. Don't expect it now either. I still would rather pay for and burn pellets than send my money to the middle east. If I knew my oil was coming from Texas, North Dakota, or some other US holding I'd buy more of it. I digress.....try some 100% Douglas Fir pellets, they're much hotter than anything else out there.

 

[elliott353]

Multiple confounding factors. I just tried Somerset hardwood pellets after Thruman's hardwood pellets, after American Wood Fiber Premium Pine. AWF is supposed to give the most BTU's. All were reported to be the best on one forum or another. 45 degree's here in Maryland. Anything will heat up the house at 45. I won't really know until it gets down to about 35. I think I'm gonna get one of those infrared thermometers so I can point it right at the hot air output. I think I'll go back to the AWF softwood. The Douglas Fir isn't available locally, just for delivery online -- way too expensive. My fan is on full. When the outside temp goes up I turn on the stove thermostat where it actually works as intended. The auger is set at ~1/3. I might be able to increase it now with a better burn. So far no embers are dropping into the ash box. (But the 2 try-out bags of Somerset are putting out alot of ash. Back to AWF.) Ultimately I'm still trying to see if I'm just trading pellet money for coal money. Still better to use an available by-product than strip mining.

 

[phil from barrington]

Multiple confounding factors. I just tried Somerset hardwood pellets after Thruman's hardwood pellets, after American Wood Fiber Premium Pine. AWF is supposed to give the most BTU's. All were reported to be the best on one forum or another. 45 degree's here in Maryland. Anything will heat up the house at 45. I won't really know until it gets down to about 35. I think I'm gonna get one of those infrared thermometers so I can point it right at the hot air output. I think I'll go back to the AWF softwood. The Douglas Fir isn't available locally, just for delivery online -- way too expensive. My fan is on full. When the outside temp goes up I turn on the stove thermostat where it actually works as intended. The auger is set at ~1/3. I might be able to increase it now with a better burn. So far no embers are dropping into the ash box. (But the 2 try-out bags of Somerset are putting out alot of ash. Back to AWF.) Ultimately I'm still trying to see if I'm just trading pellet money for coal money. Still better to use an available by-product than strip mining.

Just a FYI- I had my stove replaced yesterday. Working perfectly. It's 27 degrees and I've had my convection fan on high and the feed set about 1 click below 3 o'clock on the dial, and it's 68 in here. Perfect. I have an open concept, cape style, home wide open on the first floor. Of course, it's a bit warmer upstairs. Anyway, I hope you find the right pellets for your stove. (Doug. Fir.) I buy mine in the Summer when there are tons to be had.