The damper on my Lopi Declaration is stuck in the open position. Is it safe to use like that for awhile? The company that installed it years ago has a 14 week waiting list to make appointments. It has stuck open or closed over the years but would eventually work after heating or cooling some. But we have learned to not pull the control rod out very far. I pulled it too far the other day and it will not go back in, even with some force. It is all of the way out now. I have read many reports on this forum about this happening and some supposed fixes. At my age, it is difficult to get into the insert to try and pull the tubes and baffles out to get to the damper. Would appreciate any advice on the safety issues or a possible easy fix for my situation. Thank you in advance for any advice. Really like this forum since finding it.
Lopi Declaration Damper Stuck Open
- Thread starter lrjones
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
The bypass damper on this insert is a simple slider plate. Try to get a reputable, professional chimney sweep in the area to come and unjam it for you. They may be able to get to you sooner.
It's not ideal to burn with it open. A lot of heat is going to be wasted and the fire will burn quite hot, so keep the fire small and don't do full loads of wood.
It's not ideal to burn with it open. A lot of heat is going to be wasted and the fire will burn quite hot, so keep the fire small and don't do full loads of wood.
DuaeGuttae
Minister of Fire
We used to run a Lopi Revere insert in our last home, and I would not have been comfortable running it knowing that we could not close the bypass damper. Ours liked to run hot (a basement install with dry oak firewood), and I think we could have overfired it trying to do that. Our bypass damper did not have regular trouble the way you indicate that yours does (we always opened it fully for reloads), but it did occasionally get stuck if we heated up the flue really quickly or didn’t close it down in time. We think it was just the right expansion that allowed it to get stuck on an edge of metal, but my husband used to give the rod a tap with a rubber mallet to dislodge it, and then we were fine.
I think the idea of finding a reputable sweep is a good one, but I also think that anyone handy who knows how to read directions could use the manual to remove the tubes properly and get in there to take a look. Do you have a friendly neighbor or nearby relative or friend who would be able to help in this situation? It would require letting the stove cool completely and shoveling out the ash to give good access, but removing the tubes and baffle would give good access for a look or even a camera up there. You could post pictures here if the problem/solution isn’t immediately obvious.
I think I have it fixed for now. I notice that the tube welded to the damper yoke was hitting on the top of the alignment hole where it comes out of the stove. I put a bar in and wedged the tube downward and hit the damper extension rod with a rubber hammer and it broke loose. I had hit pretty hard yesterday but it didn't budge (should have hit it harder). When the damper is closed the rod goes thru the hole pretty well, but when pulling it out it raises up and hits the top of the hole. I have read where the damper yoke may raise up from the sockets that it sits in due to ash build up. That could be my problem. I can still pull the damper out a little ways and not have it bind up. Thanks for your input. I really think this is a useful forum.. Thanks again, Larry
I'm glad you got it back in position. If it is binding, I would operate it with the bypass damper always closed until it can be cleaned and serviced. That's safe.
This was really helpful for me a few days ago. Thank you. This was one of the final restoration steps of a 1993-1995 Lopi Endeavor. I could not fully open the damper plate. Your comment about the rod catching on the holes was my problem. There might be some slight warping, but I think it was mostly rusty. The stove had been stored for 4 years. What worked for me was to lubricate the pull rod/handle with dry graphite lube spray that is safe for high temps. With the stovepipe removed, I sprayed the rod from the inside, and then took off the heat shield (unscrewed the small ring puller) and sprayed the graphite from the outside in as well. It now smoothly moves all the way in and all the way out.
Similar threads
