Lopi Freedom Bay - Possible weld issue

[Shawn]

Hi all,

I have a Lopi Freedom Bay insert that was installed back in 2006. Never been overworked or over fired - if anything probably hasn't been used as much as it could have been.

I had the bypass disassembled to clean as it was not operating smoothly. Once I got everything put back together, I noticed this area that appears not to be welded on the back inside of the firebox. Not sure if this is a missing/cracked weld or if it was always like this. However, I thought someone with the same/similar setup may know.

I've attached a couple photos - it may have always been this way, just not sure. It is the steel part at the back of the fireplace - right and left corners of the steel. Thanks.

Shawn

 

[begreen]

The secondary supply manifold has been vulnerable with that generation of Lopi's. There may be a heat shield kit for it. @webby3650 may know. Contact your dealer for this.

 

[Shawn]

Thanks. I few web searches brought me to this Lopi Vertical Air Duct Cover https://www.rockymountainstove.com/lopi-vertical-air-duct-cover-93008000/

I've also contacted Travis Industries online via their technical support and will follow up with the dealer - if they are still around...

Thoughts on if the insert is safe to use in the interim?

 

[begreen]

It's probably safe to burn now with a partial fire, but I would get it fixed soon for peace of mind. I am wondering if a bead weld would be advised here too. bholler has done this repair. I will defer to his and webby3650 's advice.

 

[bholler]

It's probably safe to burn now with a partial fire, but I would get it fixed soon for peace of mind. I am wondering if a bead weld would be advised here too. bholler has done this repair. I will defer to his and webby3650 's advice.

I have seen lots of tube stoves with similar issues quadra fire had a big problem with it. And I have seen some lopis and regencies as well it is not a safety issue because it is just in the secondary air delivery system. It doesn't actually let extra air in. It will effect efficiency a bit because the air is no longer being directed as designed.

I would not be afraid to run it that way for a relatively short period of time. But get it fixed because it will get worse making it harder to fix. I have used quad's repair panels many times and they seem to work well. I didn't know lopi had one. Regency just replaces the stove.

 

[Shawn]

I contacted both the dealer and Travis Industries today. The dealer said no issue until they are over 3/8". Travis said they will get larger over time but no issue this burning season.

Anyone know if the repair piece that I linked to earlier needs welded in or is something that just gets manually placed over the existing heat shield? If it needs welded in is this a situation that the repair can be made with the insert installed or will I be required to remove it to have it fixed? Thanks again.

 

[begreen]

With a small, portable wire welder it can be done in place.

 

[bholler]

I have welded a few. But with no guarantee it won't crack again

 

[ABMax24]

Just weld it up and carry on.

Personally I'd use a stick welder and a 7018 electrode. But realistically just about any kind of welding process for mild steel will work, considering most stoves are just glued together with a mig gun.

 

[Hoytman]

Just bought a tube of Rutland 2000 degree furnace cement to have around the house. Says on the tube it will bond metal to metal. Makes me wonder if it would be a suitable fix? Sounds like it could be. It will not be permanent, but when and if it ever cracks more or the bond of the cement fails, just give it another bead of the cement and rock on.

That vertical air duct cover is over $50. You could buy the metal and make several for that cost.

 

[Highbeam]

These days, you can buy a wire feed welder from harbor freight for 100$ that comes with the flux core wire that needs no gas. It plugs into a regular wall outlet. I bought one for fun and have used it many times now to melt metal together. Even inside my nc30 stove.

It’s so easy. Like using a hot glue gun. I had a friend bring me something to fix and he asked to try . The weld was fine. First time ever!

 

[Shawn]

Just bought a tube of Rutland 2000 degree furnace cement to have around the house. Says on the tube it will bond metal to metal. Makes me wonder if it would be a suitable fix? Sounds like it could be. It will not be permanent, but when and if it ever cracks more or the bond of the cement fails, just give it another bead of the cement and rock on.

That vertical air duct cover is over $50. You could buy the metal and make several for that cost.

I thought about using a little fireplace cement but didn't think it would hold up at temperature. Seems like it could be worth a shot for a $5 tube of cement. Then fix properly next spring/summer if it didn't hold up or gets worse.

For all I know, those corners could have been like that for years, I only noticed because I took the baffle and bricks out of the top and spent altogether too much time trying to get it back together. In fact, I had to do that twice because after cleaning everything the baffle still didn't work smoothly. Took it all apart again and really scraped out the holes where the fingers fit into - baffle works perfect now.

My main concern was a safety issue and it doesn't seem as if there is one. I did inspect the interior of the insert for any evidence of problems or weld issues and didn't see anything. I'm no expert though...

I am really not sure if that repair piece goes on top of the existing shield or replaces it.

 

[ABMax24]

My guess is the furnace cement won't last. It might handle the heat, but I doubt it will handle the expansion and contraction of the steel that caused the crack in the first place.