Ma Ma bear baffle on old stove

[tursch]

Hi,
After reading all the posts about the baffle in the Ma Ma bear stove, I am somewhat confused.
My stove is a old one with a single row of firebricks on the sides and the back and there is not a welded in piece in the back to support a shelf for the baffle.
I am willing to weld one in but I am Not sure about the height it should be. also the front to back measurement of 8-9 inches seems to give a very large opening for the smoke to exit the stove.
I traced some lines on the side of my stove with chalk to see what my options are. see attached pic.
the stove pipe is 2 floors high and insulated pipe from the floor of the second floor out through the peaked roof , it has a good draft.

This stove is in a detached 28 x 40 insulated garage that i have been using for the last 25 years it heats well but it uses a ton of wood.
I understand that the Baffle can rest on a second set of fire brick on the sides and moving the blocks to the front or back to get a different angle.
Please let me know what the best set up for the baffle is based on your experience .

Thank You

 

[coaly]

Hi,
After reading all the posts about the baffle in the Ma Ma bear stove, I am somewhat confused.
My stove is a old one with a single row of firebricks on the sides and the back and there is not a welded in piece in the back to support a shelf for the baffle.
I am willing to weld one in but I am Not sure about the height it should be. also the front to back measurement of 8-9 inches seems to give a very large opening for the smoke to exit the stove.
I traced some lines on the side of my stove with chalk to see what my options are. see attached pic.
the stove pipe is 2 floors high and insulated pipe from the floor of the second floor out through the peaked roof , it has a good draft.

This stove is in a detached 28 x 40 insulated garage that i have been using for the last 25 years it heats well but it uses a ton of wood.
I understand that the Baffle can rest on a second set of fire brick on the sides and moving the blocks to the front or back to get a different angle.
Please let me know what the best set up for the baffle is based on your experience .

Thank YouView attachment 349305

Set cardboard template on rear bricks. Aim front just ahead of top bend, raise and lower front for proper opening. This is the maximum length for your tall, insulated chimney. Now you have a pattern for 5/16 thick steel plate. If it decreases flue temp too much, slide side bricks ahead to drop plate.

 

[tursch]

Hi Coaly,
Thanks for your response !
A 15 x 12 inch plate will fit. I will set it on top of the rear blocks and aim the front at the top bend, or the bottom bend or in between ? This gives me more than enough clearance for the opening and will try to adjust it at different angles to get the best performance. what is the optimum flue temp when the stove is running 5-6oo degrees and should it be measured with the damper open or closed ?
Thank You

 

[shaggygull64]

Hi,
After reading all the posts about the baffle in the Ma Ma bear stove, I am somewhat confused.
My stove is a old one with a single row of firebricks on the sides and the back and there is not a welded in piece in the back to support a shelf for the baffle.
I am willing to weld one in but I am Not sure about the height it should be. also the front to back measurement of 8-9 inches seems to give a very large opening for the smoke to exit the stove.
I traced some lines on the side of my stove with chalk to see what my options are. see attached pic.
the stove pipe is 2 floors high and insulated pipe from the floor of the second floor out through the peaked roof , it has a good draft.

This stove is in a detached 28 x 40 insulated garage that i have been using for the last 25 years it heats well but it uses a ton of wood.
I understand that the Baffle can rest on a second set of fire brick on the sides and moving the blocks to the front or back to get a different angle.
Please let me know what the best set up for the baffle is based on your experience .

Thank You

On those older bare-top boxes, even a simple brick-supported plate should cut the wood appetite a bunch. The 8-9" slot sounds huge until the draft starts pulling through that tall chimney.