Making a Notch in the Lintel

[ColdNorCal]

Looking into installing a freestanding stove on an existing fireplace hearth and looking at all options. Making a small, partial circle, notch into the lintel would provide extra clearance. The lintel is very heavy duty. It has a large thick plate going up into the flu and across the entire fireplace. It seems that making a small notch would not effect it structurally.

Is it acceptable to make a 3/4" notch in the lintel per the attached pics?

Ignore the bolt as it supports a block plate. A new bolt(s) can be re-tapped again into the lintel as needed.

 

[Simonkenton]

Interesting. The bricks form a true arch so the bricks of the arch are pretty much supporting the bricks above.
I am not an expert but I have built one stone fireplace.

I want to say it is OK to make that cut, but, I am just not experienced enough to call it. I defer to others who are more experienced.

 

[bholler]

Looking into installing a freestanding stove on an existing fireplace hearth and looking at all options. Making a small, partial circle, notch into the lintel would provide extra clearance. The lintel is very heavy duty. It has a large thick plate going up into the flu and across the entire fireplace. It seems that making a small notch would not effect it structurally.

Is it acceptable to make a 3/4" notch in the lintel per the attached pics?

Ignore the bolt as it supports a block plate. A new bolt(s) can be re-tapped again into the lintel as needed.

View attachment 225548 View attachment 225549 View attachment 225550

That isnt a lintle it is the damper frame. It rarely supports anything but you should be sure it doesnt before cutting

 

[ColdNorCal]

Interesting. The bricks form a true arch so the bricks of the arch are pretty much supporting the bricks above.
I am not an expert but I have built one stone fireplace.

I want to say it is OK to make that cut, but, I am just not experienced enough to call it. I defer to others who are more experienced.

I have no idea how it is built. I " just thought" their are firebricks between the lintel plate and the adobe bricks that are facing the room.

I do know their are chimney bricks, not firebricks or adobe bricks, just above the ceiling sheetrock in the attic space and through to the roof to the crown. Maybe the chimney bricks are between the adobe and lintel plate.

 

[ColdNorCal]

That isnt a lintle it is the damper frame. It rarely supports anything but you should be sure it doesnt before cutting

Ahhh, that makes more sense. The damper frame is installed like the diagram posted above. What holds up the damper frame? I did not notice anything. Sorry for the chimney 101 questions.

 

[bholler]

Ahhh, that makes more sense. The damper frame is installed like the diagram posted above. What holds up the damper frame? I did not notice anything. Sorry for the chimney 101 questions.

It is usually sitting ontop of the brick of the firebox. But just because it usually is ontop of tge firebox brick and it usually doesnt support anything doesnt mean that is the case with your fireplace.

 

[ColdNorCal]

It is usually sitting ontop of the brick of the firebox. But just because it usually is ontop of tge firebox brick and it usually doesnt support anything doesnt mean that is the case with your fireplace.

Thanks again Bholler!

Took the block plate off and looked more at everything. The bar going across is the lintel and has bricks sitting on it. It is 1/8" thick 3" x 2"
angle iron. The damper frame sits on that.

So, I guess notching 3/4" off the lintel is a no go? It is 3" tall and the bricks weight is distributed across the entire lintel, not in the center. Other then tearing it down and rebuilding, is their another way? Is it possible to remove the first row of bricks on the lintel and reinstall it? Or reinforce the existing one then cut the notch? Just thinking out loud...

The adobe wall is not supported or tied to the chimney bricks or lintel. Although their is likely mortar between them that would take time to chip away and remove.

This pic is looking up into the gap between the lintel and adobe wall. For some reason the bricks on top of the lintel are reddish. The firebricks inside the chimney box are tan.

 

[bholler]

Thanks again Bholler!

Took the block plate off and looked more at everything. The bar going across is the lintel and has bricks sitting on it. It is 1/8" thick 3" x 2"
angle iron. The damper frame sits on that.

So, I guess notching 3/4" off the lintel is a no go? It is 3" tall and the bricks weight is distributed across the entire lintel, not in the center. Other then tearing it down and rebuilding, is their another way? Is it possible to remove the first row of bricks on the lintel and reinstall it? Or reinforce the existing one then cut the notch? Just thinking out loud...

The adobe wall is not supported or tied to the chimney bricks or lintel. Although their is likely mortar between them that would take time to chip away and remove.

This pic is looking up into the gap between the lintel and adobe wall. For some reason the bricks on top of the lintel are reddish. The firebricks inside the chimney box are tan.

View attachment 225555

Yes you can move a lintel up but it is not easy.

 

[ColdNorCal]

Read that some have removed the grout joint in the row above the original lintel, slid in a new lintel (3" flat stock steel), then removed the bricks below the new lintel. The new lintel needs to sit 4" on supporting bricks on both sides.

What I'm thinking is, install a new lintel one row of bricks above the old lintel. Leave in the old lintel and make the 3/4"" notch in it. 3/4" may not sound like much but because its angle iron it does create more room allowing a 45 degree elbow to pass through it, rather then under it.

The chimney bricks are sitting on the top edge top of the original lintel 3 x 2 angle iron. Which is stronger then if bricks were sitting flat on flat stock.


...............BRICKS
............BRICKS
............--------- New Lintel, flat stock
....... BRICKS
..............|
............. |
..............|_____



The undesirable factor of doing this is increased on this fireplace because all work has to be done from inside the firebox as to not ruin the adobe wall.

Although fireplaces and wood stoves are new to me, general construction is not. In fact, I'm already armed with an a 4 1/2" angle grinder and diamond wheel from a previous job. I am also armed with the reality that things always appear much easier behind a keyboard

Thoughts, suggestions?

 

[bholler]

Read that some have removed the grout joint in the row above the original lintel, slid in a new lintel (3" flat stock steel), then removed the bricks below the new lintel. The new lintel needs to sit 4" on supporting bricks on both sides.

What I'm thinking is, install a new lintel one row of bricks above the old lintel. Leave in the old lintel and make the 3/4"" notch in it. 3/4" may not sound like much but because its angle iron it does create more room allowing a 45 degree elbow to pass through it, rather then under it.

The chimney bricks are sitting on the top edge top of the original lintel 3 x 2 angle iron. Which is stronger then if bricks were sitting flat on flat stock.


...............BRICKS
............BRICKS
............--------- New Lintel, flat stock
....... BRICKS
..............|
............. |
..............|_____



The undesirable factor of doing this is increased on this fireplace because all work has to be done from inside the firebox as to not ruin the adobe wall.

Although fireplaces and wood stoves are new to me, general construction is not. In fact, I'm already armed with an a 4 1/2" angle grinder and diamond wheel from a previous job. I am also armed with the reality that things always appear much easier behind a keyboard

Thoughts, suggestions?

Yes thst is how it is done. But doing it from inside a firebox is why i ssid it isnt easy. Amd flat stock is not a lintle.

 

[ColdNorCal]

Looked at 100's of pics and diagrams of lintels and chimneys and did not find anything similar to how this lintel was installed. I can grab the lintel and move it slightly and no bricks move.

The damper plate which provided the angle of the first flu section of bricks does not have any weight on it and also moves. I can see the first row of bricks between the adobe wall and chimney bricks and joints look good.

Yes, I am still considering notching it. How about welding in a 12" x 1" x 1/8" piece of stock above the 1" notch?