Makita electric chain saws

[elkimmeg]

Well since a few members have purchasecd these Electric Chain saws, do you care to share your experiences with them?

Me I have a cheapy MAC that I ususlly burn out after 3 years use It replaced a cheapie Remington I burned out

I used one Makita UC 4000 once and it was a world of difference from the cheapie $50 electric ones

Jay H what has your experience been

 

[Jay H]

Hey Elk, I wish I could give you a really great answer but I haven't used my Makita that much yet. I used it today to help my father cut a dead branch on an apple tree (golden delicious) in his back yard but I wanted to start cutting some of my smaller logs this week but due to the nor'easter and my flooded basement, I was too busy. I'm going to start cutting up my large maples and oaks I have but I have a Husky for that with the longer 18" bar.

It made mincemeat of the apple branch that I cut though, it was only about 5" thick.

Jay

 

[precaud]

Elk, you already know I love mine. I put a loop of Oregon 91VX on it and it's even better now.

 

[Jay H]

Elk, you already know I love mine. I put a loop of Oregon 91VX on it and it's even better now.

OK Elk, I got a chance to buck up a long and really thick maple today, lots of limbs and not an easy cut I think.. About 20-24" thick and although it took quite a bit of time, I bucked it up with the Makita... Just have to be patient and keep refilling that bar oil. My observations is that it eats a lot of bar oil pretty much had to refill the cup about every 1.75 rounds that I made, I went through 1 qt of bar oil for the one maple log. However, it cut it although my technique is crappy. I have to get better.

I also think it loses chain tension kind of easy, I kept having to tighten the tension screw by the bar or else the chain would get too loose and fall off...

I cut the maple with the Makita because my Husky 350 wouldn't start... I bought it used but serviced by Husky and am going to try to return.. why should I have to fuss with that... Otherwise, I would use it.

Wood scrapings also have a tendency to get behind the bar cover, but I don't know if this is normal with all chainsaws....

I like it, slow but works. I still use ear protection though it's not as loud as a gas chainsaw...

Jay

 

[precaud]

About 20-24" thick and although it took quite a bit of time, I bucked it up with the Makita...

I like it, slow but works. I still use ear protection though it's not as loud as a gas chainsaw...

No offense, but it's not the best choice of saw for that large a log... especially with the standard safety chain... and especially if you don't have it sharpened properly...

 

[Jay H]

No offense taken, like I've said, I'm a newbie and open to all ideas and tips and tricks...

The only reason I was using the Makita is that I couldn't get the used Husky I bought started. The chain on the Makita was pretty much brand new, other than the 5" apple tree branch I cut for my father the other day... As far as chains go, I presume you recommend a "Oregon 91VX", if that is better, I'll keep that in mind when this chain goes... probably soon...

Jay

 

[velvetfoot]

It's not a Makita, it's a Poulan Pro 400E, but I didn't think it pulled that great when I used it out of the box, despite it having plenty of power. It apparently comes with an Oregon chain and bar. I bought a couple of Poulan chains to use at some point in the future. I could not find a specified Oregon chain for that model. The cutters are smaller than on my Stihl gas saw. The Poulan replacements say: Type 91vjp; Pitch 3/8"; Gauge .050; Drive Links 62. Does that mean "safety" and does safety mean slower? I thought it meant low kickback, and that most chains were.

 

[Kilted]

I guess I can post my thoughts.

1) The Makita is a medium duty chain saw. It's kinda in the top end power tool class that Makita is noted for. Good solid construction.

2) It is an inline gear drive system, verses the L shape where the motor direct drives the chain. The gear reduction gives gobs of cutting torque at the expense of high chain speed.

3) The chainsaw has a slip clutch to keep from burning up the motor when the chain gets stuck. This also slows up cutting in the heavy timber. BUT adds life to the chain saw.

4) Unless you are experence felling trees becareful of the power cord.

5) Power rating is 12.9-13 amps depends where you read it. This is marketing so the saw can be rated for sales as running on a 15amp circuit. The saw really needs a 20amp circuit and power cords at least 14 guage short power run <25 ft or 12 guage >25 ft. I have measured 22amps while leaning into a log. Less like 14-18amps using a light touch. So at 118v * 22amps = 2596watts / 746watts per hp = 3.48HP.

6) Keep your chain sharp.

7) Shavings tend to pile up under the sprocket shroud.

8) I have only cut about 2-cords of wood with mine and it is the best electric I have handled. The inline design gives the chainsaw excellent balance.

-- Brandy

 

[Jay H]

I guess I can post my thoughts.

7) Shavings tend to pile up under the sprocket shroud.

-- Brandy

You got that right!



I run mine on a 20amp GFCI circuit with a 12gauge 100ft extension cord, no problems.

Jay