I need to test my chimney's draft. It was suggested to purchase a manometer to test draft. Does anyone know what manometer I should buy. I am only going to use it a few times. So an expensive model doesn't seem to make sense.
trettig said:I need to test my chimney's draft. It was suggested to purchase a manometer to test draft. Does anyone know what manometer I should buy. I am only going to use it a few times. So an expensive model doesn't seem to make sense.
Backpack09 said:I would like to say that I would tip that MAN-O-METER off the charts.
DanCorcoran said:trettig said:I need to test my chimney's draft. It was suggested to purchase a manometer to test draft. Does anyone know what manometer I should buy. I am only going to use it a few times. So an expensive model doesn't seem to make sense.
I've read your other thread about your difficulties with your stove. Don't worry about your draft until you first resolve your dry wood question. The easiest way to do this is to, 1) get yourself the moisture meter others have recommended from Lowes, Harbor Freight, or wherever, then, 2) buy several packs of kiln-dried wood at your local Ace Hardware or Lowes or grocery store. Take it home, split several pieces, then measure the moisture level on the freshly split surface. Once you have a stove load or two of known-dry wood (less than 20% moisture), then get your stove up to the temperatures recommended in the other thread (again, you'll need a stove-top or flue thermometer, or both).
The moisture meter and thermometer are inexpensive (compared to the precision manometer you'd need) and both will come in handy as you continue to learn more about burning your stove. They are also a lot cheaper than replacing your stove, which others-who-have-one say is not going to solve your problem.
If, after all this, you are still having problems, then attack the draft problem. Wood which is not sufficiently dry is not only the cause of most EPA-approved stove issues, but is also the easiest to diagnose.
Battenkiller said:This is the one you need. 33 bucks.
Dwyer Manometer
Not necessary to get extreme accuracy in this anymore than you do with a stove top thermo. This manometer will be "eyeball accurate" across the desired range. If the colored water is between the .05 and .10 markings you should be good according to the manufacturer.
You will need to firmly attach a piece of metal tubing to it if you want to get a reading inside the flue pipe.
Maybe it's just too early in the morning for me to do the math, but aren't you off by a decimal place?DanCorcoran said:According to the specs, the accuracy is +/- 3% of full scale, which would be +/- .09. Thus, you might have zero draft and get a reading of 0.9, or you might have a draft of 0.8 and get a reading of 0.0...