Masonry Chimney Options (10-2-3 Rule)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

rosem

Member
Aug 27, 2019
127
Northern Michigan
I'm finishing up the details of a Jotul F 55 install I plan on doing over the summer.

One of the last things I noticed is that our chimney does not clear the ridge of the house by 2ft. I haven't measured yet because of snow but it looks more like a foot.

I planned on knocking the clay tiles out and installing a SS insulated liner.

Would meeting code be as simple as adding two-three more concrete blocks to the top to get to 2ft+ of clearance?

One concern I have is the new blocks will stick out like a sore thumb compared to the 40+ year old blocks.

Another question I have is how do I finish the top block to best accept the SS liner termination piece/rain guard?

One last question regarding this. How much does the SS liner stick out from the top of the block? 2"? I remember reading that's part of the code too.

[Hearth.com] Masonry Chimney Options (10-2-3 Rule)
 
Last edited:
I'm finishing up the details of a Jotul F 55 install I plan on doing over the summer.

One of the last things I noticed is that our chimney does not clear the ridge of the house by 2ft. I haven't measured yet because of snow but it looks more like a foot.

I planned on knocking the clay tiles out and installing a SS insulated liner.

Would meeting code be as simple as adding two-three more concrete blocks to the top to get to 2ft+ of clearance?

One concern I have is the new blocks will stick out like a sore thumb compared to the 40+ year old blocks.

Another question I have is how do I finish the top block to best accept the SS liner termination piece/rain guard?

View attachment 253912
Yes just a block or two ontop. Just re use the concrete top ring you have or replace with new.
 
Yes just a block or two ontop. Just re use the concrete top ring you have or replace with new.

That's what I was thinking. Put the two new blocks under the current top block with the top ring?

I think I have one block from the original install in the basement. I'm hoping it's only 8" off. Haha.
 
That's what I was thinking. Put the two new blocks under the current top block with the top ring?

I think I have one block from the original install in the basement. I'm hoping it's only 8" off. Haha.
Leave the top block where it is. Pull the top ring. Hopefully it comes off in one piece. You don't want to try to lift the block and ring.
 
Leave the top block where it is. Pull the top ring. Hopefully it comes off in one piece. You don't want to try to lift the block and ring.

Thanks again.

Was that too ring made/poured or store bought. I don't know much about masonry chimneys. Haha

Do these accept the SS liner too pretty well? Do you just caulk it down to it?

Also, what do you think about the new block sticking out? Is it possible for a local Mason to source older block?
 
Thanks again.

Was that too ring made/poured or store bought. I don't know much about masonry chimneys. Haha

Do these accept the SS liner too pretty well? Do you just caulk it down to it?

Also, what do you think about the new block sticking out? Is it possible for a local Mason to source older block?
At least here we use prefab top rings that is what yours looks like. And yes just caulk the top plate down. The problem with new vs old block can be size. Many times the old ones are larger. If they are the same size just paint them and it will be fine