Mill Ends?

[Quielo]

I am moving to Oregon and have an offer on a house. As part of this I am looking forward to setting up a new stove. The downside to Oregon is that they don't seem to have any almond wood which my fuel of choice.

I do see a lot of ads for "mill ends" which are the trim pieces for making 2x4s and other finished wood. These are kiln dried and of lengths between 2 inches and maybe 10 inches. These are not PT.

Does anyone have experience with this type of fuel? Either as the main fuel or in addition to fir which seems to be the most available type of split wood? As an example I see ads for "2 cords" for $180. Not sure if these are stacked cords or is sold by weight.

I was thinking a larger capacity stove full of mill ends would burn very clean but of course no coals.

Any ideas? I have not bought a stove yet though the new house will be about 2700 square feet.

 

[begreen]

You will probably want to mix the mill ends in with other fuel. A full charge of relatively thin, kiln-dried wood has the potential to overfire the stove.

 

[Quielo]

You will probably want to mix the mill ends in with other fuel. A full charge of relatively thin, kiln-dried wood has the potential to overfire the stove.

I ad thought about that but was considering whether reducing the air flow could produce satisfactory results. Seems like kiln dried scrap will be very clean burning.

 

[Sodbuster]

I burned pallet ends one year, mostly oak and other hardwoods. I had to be careful because the small sized wood, mostly 4"x6" blocks could really take off and go nuclear in a hurry if you don't choke it off quickly.

 

[begreen]

Reducing the airflow will bring about stronger secondary burn and a hotter burn in a modern EPA stove (the only type permitted in OR). If the mill ends are square edged then you might be able to pack some lower layers with them so that there is hardly any air gaps between them. Then to a top down start. This is a similar procedure as when burning BioBricks.

 

[Quielo]

Reducing the airflow will bring about stronger secondary burn and a hotter burn in a modern EPA stove (the only type permitted in OR). If the mill ends are square edged then you might be able to pack some lower layers with them so that there is hardly any air gaps between them. Then to a top down start. This is a similar procedure as when burning BioBricks.

Thank you

 

[happycamper]

Thank you

i use to burn oak scrap wood
but i no longer get it for free

 

[Quielo]

i use to burn oak scrap wood
but i no longer get it for free

Scrap can be difficult because it is inconsistent. The mill ends should be clean and same dimensions.

 

[Highbeam]

Cord is a volume measurement, not weight. Mill end loads are dumped, not stacked. Lots of effort to burn them since you can almost shovel them into the stove.

Firewood is much easier due to size of splits.

I would prefer firewood. Fir is great.

 

[Quielo]

I'm aware that "cord" is a volume measurement but as they must be difficult to stack thought a weight measurement might substitute.

 

[bfitz3]

I’ve purchased maple cut offs by the trailer load, 2x4x8, heaped full, so maybe a loose 5/8 cord, for $20. They burn great, but hot and fast, so I only use them in partial loads for shoulder season or as kindling on regulation fires with cold starts. I’d be leary of a full load.

 

[billb3]

I've burned oak slabs from a custom/built to spec skid manufacturer.
They were bark on. Bark might burn OK BTU-wise but it can be a ton of ash especially if the slabs are thin.
I was getting a mix of thick ones and thin ones in the beginning and being oak it wasn't too bad, they seasoned pretty quick.
But then I started getting all thin ones - more bark than wood so quit that. Plus I was getting more wood elsewhere.

 

[Quielo]

I've burned oak slabs from a custom/built to spec skid manufacturer.
They were bark on. Bark might burn OK BTU-wise but it can be a ton of ash especially if the slabs are thin.
I was getting a mix of thick ones and thin ones in the beginning and being oak it wasn't too bad, they seasoned pretty quick.
But then I started getting all thin ones - more bark than wood so quit that. Plus I was getting more wood elsewhere.

I see ads for slabs where they have ripped beams and have the bark with some wood left. Really cheap ($30 cord) but it seems a hassle.

 

[happycamper]

wear can i buy slab wood

 

[Sodbuster]

wear can i buy slab wood

Google "sawmill" and then your city, it will give you a start.

 

[nathan125]

Scrap can be difficult because it is inconsistent. The mill ends should be clean and same dimensions.

Same dimensions? Is your regular firewood all the same dimensions? Mine is not, maybe I am
just a wood slob

 

[Kevin Weis]

I'm aware that "cord" is a volume measurement but as they must be difficult to stack thought a weight measurement might substitute.

One cord very generally is about a ton.

 

[weatherguy]

Same dimensions? Is your regular firewood all the same dimensions? Mine is not, maybe I am
just a wood slob

Slob or snob? My wife thinks I'm a slob.

 

[iLoveWood]

I love dimensional lumber as an additive to my normal fuel. I keep a separate stack of it to add in when it gets real cold, I wouldn't advise relying on it 100%

 

[nathan125]

Slob or snob? My wife thinks I'm a slob.

I am a slob...I burn anything that is free and easy to get to.

 

[Sodbuster]

I am a slob...I burn anything that is free and easy to get to.

I burned mill ends from a pallet company one year, it was kiln dried oak, but the pieces varied from 3x5x1 to 4x5x3. If you didn't catch it early it went nuclear. Plus is was a pain in the a** to stack. it was cheap, but not sure it was worth it.