Morso 7110 Hearth Question.

[backpack09]

Well, after a trip through the local stove shop. I think my wife and I have decided on the Morso 7110 due to its very tight clearances. Now my question is about the Hearth/floor protection.

The Specs say that the stove only needs 6.5" of clearance in the rear from combustibles... sounds good. I will probably Tile the wall and put in a mantle anywise, since I have to remove a couple of windows anywise.

When I was at the store, I was informed that this stove does not need a rated floor protection. And that a simple glass/tile non-combustible pad would be enough. Now after pricing out the premade pieces, I think I could do a bit better/more custom/cheaper on my own. Would simple ceramic/porcelain tile over wonderboard meet those requirements?

Thanks,

 

[Gooserider]

Well, after a trip through the local stove shop. I think my wife and I have decided on the Morso 7110 due to its very tight clearances. Now my question is about the Hearth/floor protection.

The Specs say that the stove only needs 6.5" of clearance in the rear from combustibles... sounds good. I will probably Tile the wall and put in a mantle anywise, since I have to remove a couple of windows anywise.

When I was at the store, I was informed that this stove does not need a rated floor protection. And that a simple glass/tile non-combustible pad would be enough. Now after pricing out the premade pieces, I think I could do a bit better/more custom/cheaper on my own. Would simple ceramic/porcelain tile over wonderboard meet those requirements?

Thanks,

I would read the manual rather than taking the dealers word for it (I'm not the trusting sort... ) but assuming the manual just says you need a non-combustible pad and doesn't provide any other specs, you should be able to just fine with tile over Wonderboard or Durock. FWIW, I'd probably go with Durock after my research - (see the thread on Cement board research elsewhere on the board) Note that the docs on the cement board say that they want it glued and screwed down to a solid surface, so I'd make sure to remove any carpets, etc. and get down to the subfloor to install it.

Gooserider

 

[backpack09]

Yes, the Instructions say a "non-combustible" floor protection... I was not sure what was meant by that.

This is going in over an existing hardwood... so pulling up carpeting is a non-issue.

Thanks,

 

[Gooserider]

Yes, the Instructions say a "non-combustible" floor protection... I was not sure what was meant by that.

This is going in over an existing hardwood... so pulling up carpeting is a non-issue.

Thanks,

Sounds reasonable, you should be fine w/ tile covered durock or wonderboard, though it probably would still be a good idea to glue / screw it down. Shouldn't be a problem putting the protection on top of the floor, but if you wanted to get fancy, you might consider lifting the hardwood in that area to make a recess, then putting in your cement board and tile to bring it back up to flush - it avoids the potential trip hazard. Doing this would definitely be optional though, AFAIK, putting the protector over the hardwood should be fine.

Gooserider

 

[kevinlp]

Excellent Choice on the stove. I'm very happy with mine after the first season.

 

[begreen]

Just curious, why are you removing the windows? As long as you have proper clearance with a double wall pipe, is this necessary?

 

[backpack09]

IMHO a fireplace/wood stove needs a mantle. Where else will the kiddies hang there stockings from

Interesting idea for cutting up the floor... but I think the wife may kill me if I go that route... Bad enough I will probably have to install the wonderboard while she is away so she doesn't see me screwing into our beautiful wood floors.

The windows are 50 year old 6 over 1 light double hung windows, that are very poorly sealed. One has a broken pane. All need to be pointed.

Also I have 9 windows in the room now. In a few years I will be installing new windows, so this will also save me decent pile of cash.

Thanks,

 

[babalu87]

te... Bad enough I will probably have to install the wonderboard while she is away so she doesn't see me screwing into our beautiful wood floors.

NO!
Make a hearth pad that stands alone, dont screw into the floor.

 

[KeithO]

I put several of those plastic furniture sliders under my floor protector so that the hardwood floors would not get scratched up. Besides putting the floor protector in place, someone has to wrestle the stove onto it and then in service there is always some expansion and contraction between the floor and the floor protector. I guess the best is to put a continuous layer of felt underneath that is 1/2" narrower in all dimensions so that you can't see it.

 

[Gooserider]

As the person that said to cement and screw the protector down, it might help if I explained why, which might lead to better thoughts on the alternatives....

I am assuming that the protector would be covered with some kind of stone or tiles - ALL the stuff I've seen on doing tiles says that you need a VERY rigid surface to put the tiles on, that any flex will lead to cracked and / or popped tiles. The line in all the cement board install instructions say "The floor must be engineered not to exceed the L/360 deflection criteria (L/720 for natural stone), including live and dead design loads." While I'm not sure just what that translates to in english, I'm assuming it means at least a floor that doesn't wiggle when you bounce on it. However they all say to use the thinset tile adhesive to glue the CBU to the floor, then screw it down every 8".

I'm not sure just how much difference it makes, but I tend to want to err on the conservative side, since I mostly only like fixing things once. Since I view a stove as essentially a permanent installation, I see no advantage in making the protector portable. If I was to do so, I'd want to make sure my design supplied the needed level of rigidity, which I'm not sure you can get w/ cement board alone.

Gooserider

 

[Gooserider]

My hearth pad is not fixed.

Does that mean it's fixing to breed? %-P (maybe that's where Bio-Bricks come from?)

(couldn't resist...)
Gooserider