Motor Wiring & Pellet Build Up

[Xena]

. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Def sounds like those pellets are garbage w high moisture.

Just for the record, Okanagan isn't the only clean burning pellet.
Hopefully there is somewhere a lot closer than 40 miles that
carries some better pellets.
I've got the same stove but with the bigger ash pan and have
never had the #2 blinking. Right now I'm burning dirty pellets
which require more frequent cleaning but have never in 7 years
had "clay like ash" which sounds like moisture.
I do have to go for the heavy cleaning ritual a few times a year
if burning dirty stuff but after this many years I've got it down to
a science and it doesn't more than an hour or so. I've never had to
use a leaf blower but do use the hammer, coat hanger, and small diameter
hose attached to vac every time I do what you call the deep clean.

Is water getting down your exhaust vent? I ask because I see white streaks on it in
the picture that looks like the remnants of water/mineral deposit.
Maybe it's just this picture but that is how it looks to me.

 

[jtakeman]

If you buy just premium pellets there can be a factor of five in the ash amount produced between the least ash producing pellet and the most ash producing pellet. Couple that with even being slightly off in your stoves fuel/air mixture and things can go downhill rather fast.

I've discovered that doing a bit more than the required cleaning tends to keep the stove burning well and the ole den warmer.

ETA: I've also done stupid things like seeing how long I can go between cleanings (26 bags is my longest) , however the stove cleaning side of me wins out and I clean the stove. Now that imacman went for over a ton and was scaring the senior tech at the place that made his stove.

I think that record is beatable. But most feel the same as you. Better to have a nice tidy stove that blows more heat at you than out the vent. ;-)

 

[mkpanache]

. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Def sounds like those pellets are garbage w high moisture.

Just for the record, Okanagan isn't the only clean burning pellet.
Hopefully there is somewhere a lot closer than 40 miles that
carries some better pellets.
I've got the same stove but with the bigger ash pan and have
never had the #2 blinking. Right now I'm burning dirty pellets
which require more frequent cleaning but have never in 7 years
had "clay like ash" which sounds like moisture.
I do have to go for the heavy cleaning ritual a few times a year
if burning dirty stuff but after this many years I've got it down to
a science and it doesn't more than an hour or so. I've never had to
use a leaf blower but do use the hammer, coat hanger, and small diameter
hose attached to vac every time I do what you call the deep clean.

Is water getting down your exhaust vent? I ask because I see white streaks on it in
the picture that looks like the remnants of water/mineral deposit.
Maybe it's just this picture but that is how it looks to me.

I don't know if that is moisture or not. This is the first time we have had ash this way. I am going to go ask my husband about the vent.

Oh, we put in the Okies and started the stove. Light #2 popped right on.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Where is the damper set on that stove?

Please do a dollar bill test on the door gasket.

 

[DexterDay]

Have you blown out the vacuum switch hose? Cleaned the barb it attaches to on the stove?

Edit: There are ways of checking the vacuum switch (multi meter) or you could jumper the vac switch (temporarily, to test).

Definitely check all gaskets. But look into cleaning out the vacuum hose.

 

[mkpanache]

Where is the damper set on that stove?

Please do a dollar bill test on the door gasket.

Damper is set about a tip of my pinkey open. Any less and the flame is lazy. I will do a dollar bill test on the door gasket. Thank you!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Where is the damper set on that stove?

Please do a dollar bill test on the door gasket.

Damper is set about a tip of my pinkey open. Any less and the flame is lazy. I will do a dollar bill test on the door gasket. Thank you!

Also do what Dexter is talking about.

 

[DexterDay]

If you have a volt meter (and can access the vacuum switch easily, with the stove unplugged), you can disconnect the two wires and remove the hose from the stove, place the leads of the multi meter across the two terminals. Then lightly suck on the hose going to the switch. Set to ohms, the resistance should read zero while sucking. If not, it likely the switch can be faulty.

Although vacuum switchs rarely go bad. Its more likey a clog of some type in the hose, or the barb the hose goes on. Or low vacuum due to leaks in gaskets???

 

[mkpanache]

Have you blown out the vacuum switch hose? Cleaned the barb it attaches to on the stove?

Edit: There are ways of checking the vacuum switch (multi meter) or you could jumper the vac switch (temporarily, to test).

Definitely check all gaskets. But look into cleaning out the vacuum hose.

Yes, I have blown out the the hose, both with a compressor and with my mouth so I could feel it to see if it was blocked. I did jump the vacuum switch to test it. What do you mean by cleaning the barb? I might have done that already. I have even cleaned the legs that hold this thing on the stand, lol. The only thing I have yet to do is blow the chimney. But when I blew out that ash trap with the compressor - the stove worked. My wife shut it down, and it stopped. If the issue were the chimney, why would it have worked in the first place?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Have you blown out the vacuum switch hose? Cleaned the barb it attaches to on the stove?

Edit: There are ways of checking the vacuum switch (multi meter) or you could jumper the vac switch (temporarily, to test).

Definitely check all gaskets. But look into cleaning out the vacuum hose.

Yes, I have blown out the the hose, both with a compressor and with my mouth so I could feel it to see if it was blocked. I did jump the vacuum switch to test it. What do you mean by cleaning the barb? I might have done that already. I have even cleaned the legs that hold this thing on the stand, lol. The only thing I have yet to do is blow the chimney. But when I blew out that ash trap with the compressor - the stove worked. My wife shut it down, and it stopped. If the issue were the chimney, why would it have worked in the first place?

That vacuum hose goes between the switch and the stove at the stove end is a barb it must be clean.

Since you haven't yet cleaned the termination cap I send a good blast of air up the vent.

I'd also make certain that the damper is open exactly one #2 pencil width.

 

[smoke show]

Since you haven't yet cleaned the termination cap I send a good blast of air up the vent.

My long vertical run gets a slight creosote type buildup up top.

Must be too cool up there.

A blast of air might not do it?

just sayin.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Since you haven't yet cleaned the termination cap I send a good blast of air up the vent.

My long vertical run gets a slight creosote type buildup up top.

Must be too cool up there.

A blast of air might not do it?

just sayin.

Yes I know.

 

[The Other One]

I don't know that not having the fake bricks will cause an issue, but don't you now have a few small holes in the back wall that are now visible that used to be covered by the bricks. I don't know that that will be a problem, but it may interfere with the correct air flow. (I am not very concerned that this is your issue). With everything else, I have read, I really think someone has to get up on the roof. I know its going to be near 60 F up here near Buffalo next week, so maybe you will get a chance.

 

[The Other One]

These are all the reasons the service manual lists for #2 blinking light:
1. Vacuum
Loss of vacuum may be causes by:
a. Operator error or neglect
􀂉 Leaving the Main Door open too long
􀂉 Forgetting to close the Main Door
􀂉 Leaving the Ashpan Door open too long
􀂉 Forgetting to close the Ashpan Door
􀂉 Allowing the Chimney to get plugged.
􀂉 Allowing the Ash Traps to get plugged.
If an owner calls in with a #2 diagnostic light flashing, first cover all items listed that may be caused by incorrect operation of the stove. Quiz the owner about their habits in regards to the Periodic maintenance. If they have been lax in cleaning the Ash Traps (See Figure 21 on Page 48) and venting system, have them first clean their stove and try it again.
b. Component Failure. Which components may be the cause?
􀂉 Combustion Fan
􀂉 Vacuum switch
􀂉 Control Board
􀂉 Vacuum hose
􀂉 Wiring harness
􀂉 Wiring connections
The component list dealing with Vacuum problems will need a closer look. Check the simplest item first.
• Check to see if the combustion Fan comes on.
􀀹 If the combustion Fan isn’t running, check the wiring connections at the fan.
ô€€¹ Check the wiring connections on the opposite end at the Terminal Block (white wire) and at the Molex connector (Blue wire) that plugs into the control board. They may look OK, but in fact may not be making contact the pins from the control board.
ô€€¹ Check both wires in the harness for continuity if needed with an OHM meter. (White and Blue wire)
􀀹 Check for voltage at the fan, if voltage is present and the fan isn’t running replace the combustion fan.
• Check the control board.
ô€€¹ Check for voltage at the pin out for the Blue wire at the control board. If no voltage is present replace the control board.
• Check all wiring connections related to the Vacuum system first.
ô€€¹ Check the 2 Gray wires that are plugged into the vacuum switch.
ô€€¹ If the wires are plugged in, check the opposite ends that are plugged into the control board. Make sure the wires a fully pushed into the Molex connector that plugs into the control board. They may look OK, but in fact may not be making contact the pins from the control board.
ô€€¹ Check the Gray wires for continuity if needed with an OHM meter.
• If all wires and connections are correct, check the vacuum switch.
ô€€¹ Unplug the 2 Gray wires and jump them together. Run the stove and see if that corrected the problem.
􀀹 If the stoves runs, check the vacuum reading in the stove using a manometer connected to the vacuum hose. Be sure to leave the 2 Gray wires jumped together or the stove will shut down again. The vacuum should be at least .05†WC negative pressure. The stove typically has a reading of between .1†and .25†WC negative pressure.
ô€€¹ If the vacuum reading is relatively low, check the intake air damper to see if it is wide open. Adjusting the damper to a position that is more closed will increase the Vacuum reading.
If dealing with an intermittent problem most likely it will be a problem in the wiring system related to a faulty connection or possibly a combustion fan that is getting too hot and the Thermal Override is shutting it down. This would likely be seen when the stove is running on the higher settings and the combustion fan should be check immediately after the stove shuts down. Once the fan cools down it may start running again.

(broken link removed to http://www.eventempinc.com/stcroix/downloads/dig2/Digital_Control_Board_Service_Manual.pdf)

 

[mkpanache]

I don't know that not having the fake bricks will cause an issue, but don't you now have a few small holes in the back wall that are now visible that used to be covered by the bricks. I don't know that that will be a problem, but it may interfere with the correct air flow. (I am not very concerned that this is your issue). With everything else, I have read, I really think someone has to get up on the roof. I know its going to be near 60 F up here near Buffalo next week, so maybe you will get a chance.

Mark is on the roof now; . He did the dollar bill thing, and the bill ripped trying to yank it out of the door. That being said, he still wants to replace the rope. We are going to blow it first, and then he is climbing up there.

 

[mkpanache]

Have you blown out the vacuum switch hose? Cleaned the barb it attaches to on the stove?

Edit: There are ways of checking the vacuum switch (multi meter) or you could jumper the vac switch (temporarily, to test).

Definitely check all gaskets. But look into cleaning out the vacuum hose.

Yes, I have blown out the the hose, both with a compressor and with my mouth so I could feel it to see if it was blocked. I did jump the vacuum switch to test it. What do you mean by cleaning the barb? I might have done that already. I have even cleaned the legs that hold this thing on the stand, lol. The only thing I have yet to do is blow the chimney. But when I blew out that ash trap with the compressor - the stove worked. My wife shut it down, and it stopped. If the issue were the chimney, why would it have worked in the first place?

That vacuum hose goes between the switch and the stove at the stove end is a barb it must be clean.

Since you haven't yet cleaned the termination cap I send a good blast of air up the vent.

I'd also make certain that the damper is open exactly one #2 pencil width.

Ok, so he has not cleaned that barb. He will do that. Is the barb that crimped part?

He is going to clean the termination cap now.

He will adjust the damper - hopefully we can get the stove running.

 

[mkpanache]

These are all the reasons the service manual lists for #2 blinking light:
1. Vacuum
Loss of vacuum may be causes by:
a. Operator error or neglect
􀂉 Leaving the Main Door open too long
􀂉 Forgetting to close the Main Door
􀂉 Leaving the Ashpan Door open too long
􀂉 Forgetting to close the Ashpan Door
􀂉 Allowing the Chimney to get plugged.
􀂉 Allowing the Ash Traps to get plugged.
If an owner calls in with a #2 diagnostic light flashing, first cover all items listed that may be caused by incorrect operation of the stove. Quiz the owner about their habits in regards to the Periodic maintenance. If they have been lax in cleaning the Ash Traps (See Figure 21 on Page 48) and venting system, have them first clean their stove and try it again.
b. Component Failure. Which components may be the cause?
􀂉 Combustion Fan
􀂉 Vacuum switch
􀂉 Control Board
􀂉 Vacuum hose
􀂉 Wiring harness
􀂉 Wiring connections
The component list dealing with Vacuum problems will need a closer look. Check the simplest item first.
• Check to see if the combustion Fan comes on.
􀀹 If the combustion Fan isn’t running, check the wiring connections at the fan.
ô€€¹ Check the wiring connections on the opposite end at the Terminal Block (white wire) and at the Molex connector (Blue wire) that plugs into the control board. They may look OK, but in fact may not be making contact the pins from the control board.
ô€€¹ Check both wires in the harness for continuity if needed with an OHM meter. (White and Blue wire)
􀀹 Check for voltage at the fan, if voltage is present and the fan isn’t running replace the combustion fan.
• Check the control board.
ô€€¹ Check for voltage at the pin out for the Blue wire at the control board. If no voltage is present replace the control board.
• Check all wiring connections related to the Vacuum system first.
ô€€¹ Check the 2 Gray wires that are plugged into the vacuum switch.
ô€€¹ If the wires are plugged in, check the opposite ends that are plugged into the control board. Make sure the wires a fully pushed into the Molex connector that plugs into the control board. They may look OK, but in fact may not be making contact the pins from the control board.
ô€€¹ Check the Gray wires for continuity if needed with an OHM meter.
• If all wires and connections are correct, check the vacuum switch.
ô€€¹ Unplug the 2 Gray wires and jump them together. Run the stove and see if that corrected the problem.
􀀹 If the stoves runs, check the vacuum reading in the stove using a manometer connected to the vacuum hose. Be sure to leave the 2 Gray wires jumped together or the stove will shut down again. The vacuum should be at least .05†WC negative pressure. The stove typically has a reading of between .1†and .25†WC negative pressure.
ô€€¹ If the vacuum reading is relatively low, check the intake air damper to see if it is wide open. Adjusting the damper to a position that is more closed will increase the Vacuum reading.
If dealing with an intermittent problem most likely it will be a problem in the wiring system related to a faulty connection or possibly a combustion fan that is getting too hot and the Thermal Override is shutting it down. This would likely be seen when the stove is running on the higher settings and the combustion fan should be check immediately after the stove shuts down. Once the fan cools down it may start running again.

(broken link removed to http://www.eventempinc.com/stcroix/downloads/dig2/Digital_Control_Board_Service_Manual.pdf)

Both Mark and I read this; the manual is awesome! This is where I saw the maintenance schedule. If this doesn't work, he has the gear to check the electrical parts.

 

[DexterDay]

The "barb" is just the fitting that the vacuum hose goes on. There will be a "barb" on the vacuum switch (and a "barb" on the stove. The vac hose connects to them. Clean the one on the stove. It likely.doesnt need cleaned (if he blew through the hose already and air went through), but it wont hurt to run a paperclip or some other small pointy object through the small hole. This "barb" is how the vacuum hose gets it vacuum.

As for the door gasket. Did he check it in several spots? On all 4 sides of the door (top, bottom, and sides?)? If the bill wants to rip on all 4 sides, I wouldn't replace the gasket. Does this model have an ash pan?

I hope that you guys get it figured out. At least if the cap is crudded up, that there will be a reason. So here is hoping that its whats messed up. A clean cap, is a happy cap.

 

[mkpanache]

The "barb" is just the fitting that the vacuum hose goes on. There will be a "barb" on the vacuum switch (and a "barb" on the stove. The vac hose connects to them. Clean the one on the stove. It likely.doesnt need cleaned (if he blew through the hose already and air went through), but it wont hurt to run a paperclip or some other small pointy object through the small hole. This "barb" is how the vacuum hose gets it vacuum.

As for the door gasket. Did he check it in several spots? On all 4 sides of the door (top, bottom, and sides?)? If the bill wants to rip on all 4 sides, I wouldn't replace the gasket. Does this model have an ash pan?

I hope that you guys get it figured out. At least if the cap is crudded up, that there will be a reason. So here is hoping that its whats messed up. A clean cap, is a happy cap.

I just did the dollar test, and it's tight. Mark is on his way to buy a chimney cleaning kit; when he blew out the cap with the blower, about a four foot circle of black smoke came out from under the cap. Now that he knows what the barb is (he isn't familiar with all of the stove terminology), he said he has tried all of that. He is still going to do it all again, though. In fact, today, we are doing everything again. The stove is off the hearth. After he blew out the cap, he hooked out the stove to the leaf blower. We are just letting it run, and while he is getting the chimney kit, I am opening and shutting the front door, going through the ash traps with the cordless drill, and smacking the thing with the rubber mallet.

Oh, my husband and I are DJs and we sing in a rock band. Last night he had a gig, and when he came home, the furnace was out Thank GOD he was able to get THAT running!!

Oh, yes, this model has an ash pan.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Make sure the ash pan seals and latches are good. If this allows entry into the fire box area it will set up an air bypass and can also cause a vacuum failure.

 

[DexterDay]

Good job on buying a cleaning kit. You can just buy a pellet vent brush and enough rods, or there is a kit that many of us use here. Its called the "Lint-Eater". Its designed to clean dryer vents, but also shows a pellet stove on the back of the box (works great too). You may need to buy an extra rod or two, but its a dual purpose kit. I am going to use mine today. Very easy and comes with different accessories for cleaning the dryer out (I worry more about my dryer than my pellet stoves).

Brushing the vent, scraping and cleaning the cap, then followed by the leafblower again (just to ensure it blows everything out) will give the stove a new set of lungs.

Good luck, I got my fingers crossed for ya.

 

[mkpanache]

Make sure the ash pan seals and latches are good. If this allows entry into the fire box area it will set up an air bypass and can also cause a vacuum failure.

I will have him check that. Thank you!

 

[Xena]

We are just letting it run, and while he
is getting the chimney kit, I am opening and shutting the front door, going through the ash
traps with the cordless drill, and smacking the thing with the rubber mallet.

I've never had much success with a rubber mallet.
Toss it for a small hammer. It will leave nick marks
on the metal backwall but it won't break anything I
do it this way all the time and yes this ritual is required if
running dirty pellets.
The rubber mallet doesn't offer enough blunt force imo
to loosen all the chit packed in up behind those ash traps.
Remove faux brick, hit back wall with hammer. No hitting
the exterior of the stove. Only inside the firebox.
Here's my usual stove cleaning arsenal. I have a bigger hammer
that I will sometimes use if this one in the pic doesn't cut it
but for the task at hand a rubber mallet is useless imo.

 

[mkpanache]

Good job on buying a cleaning kit. You can just buy a pellet vent brush and enough rods, or there is a kit that many of us use here. Its called the "Lint-Eater". Its designed to clean dryer vents, but also shows a pellet stove on the back of the box (works great too). You may need to buy an extra rod or two, but its a dual purpose kit. I am going to use mine today. Very easy and comes with different accessories for cleaning the dryer out (I worry more about my dryer than my pellet stoves).

Brushing the vent, scraping and cleaning the cap, then followed by the leafblower again (just to ensure it blows everything out) will give the stove a new set of lungs.

Good luck, I got my fingers crossed for ya.

Well, just going up from the bottom, he got a ton of crap coming from the venting. We have a friend coming over with a bucket truck in about a 1/2 hour, so that will make it much easier for him to get to the top. I'm also going to check out the Lint Eater kit.

Thank you for your help. Maybe by tonight, we'll be burning Okies!

 

[The Other One]

I use a tent stake rubber mallet. It works great. I am a drummer, so I may have a little more strength in my wrist and proper technique, but it gets it all. Snap your wrist.

I really hope all this effort solves your issue today. I know we would all love to see some video of it working propoperly later today.