Mount Vernon Wall Unit Static Problem

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AJA

New Member
Jan 18, 2018
6
Albuquerque, NM
I'm high and dry (7,200') and always have winter static issues w/ my wall control unit blinking out. One observation and one question: I had a humidifier placed on the floor beneath the wall unit, but it didn't seem to help. After some thought, I opened the stove and blew dust off the interior, then put the humidifier near the stove: voila. Seems to make sense that the source of static charge is the stove itself, where hot air movement and dust begins. Does it make sense that that is the source of the static charge, but it's seen in the wonky control panel? It seems to be working. Related question: My control panel is mounted to some Sheetrock that's unfinished (no paint). Seems I remember charges building up on Sheetrock as I've worked w/ it (can I get a witness?). I was planning on remounting the base and wall unit to a piece of rubber gasket after I paint that section of rock, however, I was thinking about rubber soles and the buildup of static charges. Would the rubber actually decrease the static load, or would it increase it? I'm now thinking of mounting the thing on a wood panel, and am considering making a leather gasket for it to sit on. Any thoughts on the matter? Overkill? Why not?
 
I wouldn't worry about it. Most of the issue with the wall control is the small caliber wire they use. I know years back, I recommended to people to cut the ends off the wires that go to the stove as they were week and would act up. And also on the opposite side of the connection on the stove, those wires were in a zip tie that was too tight, and would recommend cutting it off. Helped a lot of folks with those ideas. Usually just lifting up on the wires on the back of the stove helped also. Best thing to do is by thicker gauge wire for tstat. Stay warm. kap
 
I wouldn't worry about it. Most of the issue with the wall control is the small caliber wire they use. I know years back, I recommended to people to cut the ends off the wires that go to the stove as they were week and would act up. And also on the opposite side of the connection on the stove, those wires were in a zip tie that was too tight, and would recommend cutting it off. Helped a lot of folks with those ideas. Usually just lifting up on the wires on the back of the stove helped also. Best thing to do is by thicker gauge wire for tstat. Stay warm. kap
Thanks for the reply. A few years ago I re-ran the run to the wall unit w/ thicker gauge wire. I can't emphasize how dry it is in NM... surprises me in different ways. Re. the sheetrock, I'm convinced I'm right, having had intense static charges in a newly rocked room, but haven't found web support in that regard yet. I did, however, figure out the obvious (doh!), when I moved the humidifier from below the wall unit to near the stove. THAT'S the source of the static charges, and vacuuming or even putting in a new bag increases the buildup. The charge would be seen in the wall unit--many people have attested--w/ blinking on and off and showing a 'wakeup' message. Since moving the humidifier, the light on the wall unit is steady, brighter, and has yet to blink. I haven't had to remount the wall unit to a gasket, but one of these days I plan on putting it on a piece of wood. So, save it in the static electricity file.... move the humidity closer to the stove itself.
 
I am still running the original tstat wires, but cut the ends off. Haven't had any issues. Glad you figured yours out with the humidifier. Stay warm. kap