Much creosote in single wall flue pipe, with little/none in double wall chimney pipe

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

chris87654

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 30, 2010
15
MO
After a season of moderate burning, I pulled the telescoping flue pipe loose from Drolet Legend (permanent fixed baffles) to clean the chimney. I'd used SW flue pipe to radiate more heat inside (with a heat shield/13" from wall), and double wall flue pipe - all is Selkirk/Supervent.

The flue pipe wouldn't telescope because of hard creosote buildup - it looked like little mountains from the stove to the double wall Supervent connector, where it abruptly stopped and there's only thin powder - maybe a little creosote at top of pipe by vent (vent/top part of chimney shows brown residue on the stainless steel - most of which washes off with the rain). "Mountains" were ~1/4" (cleaned out fairly easy with brush) with 1/16+" of hard deposit underneath (this did not clean off, nor would it easily light with propane torch [would turn red but not catch fire]).

I'd read that creosote will accumulate more in single wall flue pipe, but I didn't get impression it'd be this bad/so much different from the double wall. I've burned some wood that wasn't completely dry (can hear it hissing - mostly small 3-4" dia pieces) and most always let vent pipe get hot (350-400F), and sometimes accidentally let it get to maybe 600-650F) before shutting vents/promote secondary burn. Fires weren't burned continuously and were typically started when room was 65F. If I closed the stove vents and didn't see a good secondary burn, I'd crack the door and let it get burning hot before closing them again.

Is this typical (so much creosote in SW pipe, with basically none in DW chimney)? was burning maybe 5-10% non-dry wood a major factor)? does creosote accumulate more near the stove because the smoke dries out as it goes up the chimney (or any other factor)?

I was glad to see just powder (type 1 creosote) in DW - I will replace the SW flue with DW (stove radiates enough heat anyway) and hope it'll all be good in future. I've learned more about building fires, but sometimes seems like too much visible smoke exiting the chimney vent until fire gets going good.
 
Last edited:
Sounds typical for burning a bit of sub-par wood.
 
I would agree with BG. Sounds normal for sub par wood. Be prepared to replace the SW parts every few years anyway.
 
I burned single wall last year and double wall this year. Different stove but results were the same. Single wall was a mess. Checked the flue this year about 2 weeks ago on the double and it's very clean.
 
Over the long term I can't see why not to install double-wall connector for most installations. The additional cost, spread over the 20yr life of most stoves is small. DW stove pipe is a win-win. You get a better quality pipe that lasts a lot longer, keeps the flue gases hotter, stays cleaner, and improves draft.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CenterTree
Over the long term I can't see why not to install double-wall connector for most installations. The additional cost, spread over the 20yr life of most stoves is small. DW stove pipe is a win-win. You get a better quality pipe that lasts a lot longer, keeps the flue gases hotter, stays cleaner, and improves draft.
The single wall I have must be over 30 years old I cleaned it up and repainted it a few years back. Might be of higher quality then what is available nowadays.
 
The Drolet SW pipe is good quality - 22 gauge, not sure if stainless, but has a lifetime warranty. I used it because I wanted to maximize radiated heat in the room. Cost is about same (more) than DW telescopic pipe - cost with telescopic heat shield is double that of DW. If I always burn good wood, there'd likely be no problem. Lately I've been mindful to use dry kindling to heat the SW past 350F before adding burn wood - not sure if this helps reduce/eliminate creosote. I don't let the flue temp get below 350 (with any wood) until the fire starts dying out. Radiated heat from the flue pipe is probably negligible - this stove does the job - record temp in room was 107F early in season with hot fire and outside temp about 45F. I ordered Selkirk DW pipe on ebay, but it arrived with a damaged lower end, so put the SW back on (had to dribble some mineral spirits on inside telescopic joint so it would break loose after jamming it pretty hard to collapse enough with creosote buildup to remove for cleaning). There was some flaky creosote about a foot down from chimney cap, along with some on the cap - all brushed off easily. I was amazed at the abrupt change in buildup from SW to DW (can't say I wasn't warned... (installation posting https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-wall-pipe-sp00370-and-shield-sp00390.140929/).

Other thing I don't like about the SW is how warm/hot the ceiling gets above the stove - all installed to spec and it's how it is with SW so I guess there's no danger of pyrolysis (had to look up that term again...) - please correct me if I'm wrong. I rigged up some things to distribute heat which I'll post in another thread. THANK YOU all for good info - "typical for burning a bit of sub-par wood" is okay at this point since this is my first time using a wood stove (now wondering what the cast concrete chimney looks like in the CA house where I was using an Earth Stove insert before I knew anything about creosote buildup - burned for about 10 years with no chimney fires).
 
I finished my first year burning sub-par wood and do have some build up on the inside of the pipe..it is also single wall. I can hear it falling down every now and then.
Good cleaning in the spring should take care of it. I don't need to remove the pipe to clean it out,,,,all straight section.
 
Now that SW is cleaned up/back together, and I know more about starting/burning fires, I'll use it for another season. Creosote build up is a good indicator of how much I know about burning in this wood stove. I'll have the DW flue pipe on hand and will install it at some point. I burn pretty much any kind of wood but will make sure it's dry - still have quite a few trees to take down. I was told not to burn cedar, but just read it's okay (not sure why people plant them 4-5 feet apart...). Thanks again for all the help.
 
Following......
This is my first season, and haven't pulled the cap and looked down yet.
Single wall first 4 ft, dw to the top. I burn mainly ash as the dreaded ash-borer
has left many standing deads, or dying. Already seasoned.
I burn roadside scrounge too if it's not too old and soft.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.