mushrooming wedges

[stoveliker]

Apart from using my sledge hammer, I like to be able to use a heavy hammer that has a slightly smaller width as my wedges. This allows me to drive the wedge through the log even if the top of the wedge is already below the top of the wood. (This is useful for when one has a big knot - I know I can also noodle the piece, but sometimes I just leave the saw laying.)

However, my wedges keep mushrooming - flowing steel to the sides, at which point obviously it won't go in the crack once that overhanging metal touches the top of the wood.

Using an angle grinder to cut off the overhanging stuff takes quite long. Is there a better way? Do you cut off these protusions? If so, how?

 

[SpaceBus]

I couldn't imagine anything faster than an angle grinder. Maybe a bench grinder with a really coarse wheel?

 

[Montanalocal]

If you have got a bunch of metal overhanging, fire up your acetylene cutting torch. Then smooth it off with the grinder.

Or you could use plastic felling wedges. They do not mushroom quite so bad, and if they do, they grind off easier.

 

[stoveliker]

I couldn't imagine anything faster than an angle grinder. Maybe a bench grinder with a really coarse wheel?

Thanks. I did try that, took longer (for the coarseness I have). Makes less noise though

 

[stoveliker]

If you have got a bunch of metal overhanging, fire up your acetylene cutting torch. Then smooth it off with the grinder.

Or you could use plastic felling wedges. They do not mushroom quite so bad, and if they do, they grind off easier.

Unfortunately that is not in my toolbox (yet? - maybe I should ).
Plastic I tried, but my sledge hammer did not do well on them...

 

[EbS-P]

If this a continuing problem I’d see if different wedges maybe with a larger head could offer longer service between cleaning? Sawsall with a good metal blade? Heat them up in a fire and hot file with a course file. Seems like a good reason for a new belt sander. How flat is the head on your hammer / sledge? Maybe a flatter striking surface could spread the impact across more of the head of the wedge?

That said I don’t use wedges. If swinging my fiskars maul as hard as I can can’t bust it up it get thrown into a pile to get cut with the saw next time it’s running.

Evan

 

[stoveliker]

All good points. Thanks.
A larger head may not be possible, as the angle of the wedge matters, and a larger head would mean a much longer wedge.

 

[EbS-P]

a larger head would mean a much longer wedge.

I’m not sure that all bad as you could drive it further down getting a wider splitting width. Seem like a good project for anyone who knows a blacksmith and at that you could choose an alloy and tempering process that fits the tools intended use.

Evan

 

[Bad LP]

Very early in my life I was in shop classes. Keep a bevel on your tools at all times. A fast daily touch on a grinding wheel takes no time compared to what your describing.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, I decided to do that after grinding four sides of one today. Took me about an hour and a half ... Got four lips of a half inch off...

I have a bench grinder that I'll use.

 

[Rusty18]

Like bad lp recommends, keep em tuned up. We always had slivers flying off of hammer unions in the oilfield. They would punch through coveralls and jeans and embed in legs...and safety glasses.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes. I've had one sliver go thru my glove in a finger. Did not fly off, but broke off when handling the wedge.

This will be just one more thing before having beer at the end of the day

 

[clancey]

Your lucky it did not go somewhere else like in your cold beer for instance when you drink it--having fun here and that would be a emergency you would have to have two..lol clancey

 

[stoveliker]

Your lucky it did not go somewhere else like in your cold beer for instance when you drink it--having fun here and that would be a emergency you would have to have two..lol clancey

Yes, that instance made me think. PPE is nice, but when tools deteriorate, things can still go wrong.

I don't drink though when using potentially dangerous tools (axes, saws, powertools) - but it could have entered my water too...

 

[clancey]

Did not thinks about that...enjoy clancey

 

[Rob_Red]

As other have said keep it tuned up with a bench grinder. I would NOT do anything that would harden the metal further (like heat it or use a torch) this will lead to a brittle (dangerous) wedge

 

[Simonkenton]

I bought the Ochsenkopf wedge. Made in Germany and that word means "Head of the Ox." It is made of aluminum. The wedge twists about 90 degrees. So as you drive it in, it twists to where the fat part of the wedge is sideways in the split wood. This thing works great! Leave it up to the Krauts to invent something like this.
I used it heavily for several years, and then, aluminum being softer than steel, I started having problems with the head mushrooming. And then, one day it just about bent over double at mid point, aluminum being softer than steel. I can't figure out why the Krauts made it from aluminum.

 

[Rob_Red]

Probably because a wedge is a consumable. They are NOT made to last as long as the hammer. It’s soft because fractured wedges can cause major injury also typically the value and expense is in the striking tool and the tool being hammered on is designed to wear.

similar to how in black smithing the HAMMER is the consumable and will be softer than the anvil which should
Last several life times.

you wouldn’t want a 100 dollar hammer destroying your 150 year old $ 800 anvil

 

[Simonkenton]

Well, my Ochsenkopf has been consumed. When it went out on me last year, I just went to Lowes and bought a good 'ole steel wedge.

 

[Osage]

As other have said keep it tuned up with a bench grinder. I would NOT do anything that would harden the metal further (like heat it or use a torch) this will lead to a brittle (dangerous) wedge

You will not harden the wedge by heating it only. If you quench it you might raise the hardness it a little, but if it has lower carbon content which a wedge would have it will not harden to the point of being brittle. High carbon steel if heated to anti-magnetic and allowed to cool slowly, which is annealing will be soft.

 

[Rob_Red]

You will not harden the wedge by heating it only. If you quench it you might raise the hardness it a little, but if it has lower carbon content which a wedge would have it will not harden to the point of being brittle. High carbon steel if heated to anti-magnetic and allowed to cool slowly, which is annealing will be soft.

After thinking about it more, I stand corrected especially a wedge has enough mass to air cool slowly, however if you torch cut a part there is hardening in the area right by the cut no? I know I’ve ruined some saw blades this way.

 

[Osage]

After thinking about it more, I stand corrected especially a wedge has enough mass to air cool slowly, however if you torch cut a part there is hardening in the area right by the cut no? I know I’ve ruined some saw blades this way.

It will stay about the same. When I make knives out of files I throw them in the stove overnight. This softens them. To bring them back to the proper hardness you reheat them to anti magnetic and quench.

 

[jaoneill]

Back in the day I would put a 1/2" bevel on the top of the wedge with a torch, then touch it up with the angle grinder as needed; never had any overhang that way.

 

[stoveliker]

Back in the day I would put a 1/2" bevel on the top of the wedge with a torch, then touch it up with the angle grinder as needed; never had any overhang that way.

In the planning for a long winter evening.

 

[ABMax24]

Looks like I'm late to the party.

Here are the fiber disks we use at work, you can get them in 6" and 5" diameters, and they eat material, normal grinding disks produce grinding dust, these create metals filings. We typically just put them on top of a 1/8" grinding disk, they don't work if you are using the edge of the disk, but if you use the face they remove a lot of material very quickly.

This should fix your wedges in short order.

3M AB27632 Cubitron II Fibre Discs - 982C, Ceramic Grain, 60+, 5" Dia x 7/8" Arbor

AB27632, Designed for carbon steel metalworking applications such as weld grinding, beveling, flame-cut edge . Shop 3M Tools. Free shipping on orders $99+.

www.tenaquip.com