I had another thread going about some questions and problems but since I have worked through it and finished I'd like to document the whole project FWIW.
Starting from the top, what’s the reason? Well it seemed like my unit wasn’t throwing off as much heat as I expected. Of course this is completely arbitrary, it’s my first insert I've ever had and really haven’t been around others during heating season either. But based on others opinions of the insert (Jøtul C 550 Rockland) and how large of a house they were heating with it, I felt I should be able to heat the addition to my house. The addition is 22x36, 792 sqft, 2 story (1584sqft) but half of that is open (large great room) so not sure how you factor that in. As it is right now if the temp dipped below 40ºF the insert could not keep the average temp at 70ºF. That’s not near what I hoped. I run the stove hot also so don’t blame it on my burn methods; usually cruise at 500-600º and often up to 700º. Many have suggested that block off plates prevent heat from being wasted up the chimney, and some have reported large increases in the temperature of their surrounds by the heat being trapped around the stove and not going up the masonry. I'll try to record these increases a document them as well.
Next was to design a plate that would work, and I had several problems. The big issues was that the block off plate would hold the stovepipe in a fixed horizontal plane (and vertically too if you seal it with stove cement like the article on here states). I must have a not so common stove setup since with the pipe fixed like this it would be impossible to install the insert or later remove? I guess other folks stove must have a good length of more pliable pipe to allow for installation and removal, but where my plate would go was approximately 3-4" above the stove top - so the rigid angled connector that goes into the flue collar of the stove was the same piece in the hole of the block off plate - it has to be able to move. I tested a theory and it worked - I went to the rooftop and was able to lift the entire 6" SS liner up and block it a few inches high to allow the stove to be moved into place, and then dropped back down later and inserted into the collar. So the standard design would work, I just need to be able to lift up the flue for installation and removal.
I took the measurements of the opening, and traced it all out on cardboard:
Almost all these pics have supplemental craftsman 19.2V lighting... the great room is large and dimly lit. My flash on the camera is also broke (long story, ran over the camera with my F350...)
Mocking up the cardboard cutout. This pic is before raising the flue, so you can see how close the insert will be and how the connector is still rigid at the point it passes through the block off plate.
Tracing everything out on sheet metal now:
Test fitting the final product:
I want to trap as much heat as possible and also cut down on air leak without using sealants so I went to the hardware store in search for 'rock wool' they handed me Roxul AFB. Doing a search here turned up others have used this same stuff so figure it is what I was looking for.
Done. Used a few masonry screws driven half way in to tack in place.
Not pictured: to help seal around the hole where the connector passes through I wrapped a few inches wide strip of rock wool around the connector, and secured with a piece of#12 bare copper wire (just using what I had on hand), as the pipe is lowered into the opening the wrapping contacts the block off plate with a layer or rockwool already on it, and helps seal it even thicker.
Unfortunately I wont know for several days how it turns out, its in the 50's today and tomorrow and working the next several days anyhow making it difficult to monitor things even if I was burning it. But next week I have off and I'm sure this warm weather won't last too much longer...
Like I said I haven’t run the stove yet, so this is also a chance for anyone who might see some potential problem to speak up before I use it for the first time.
Starting from the top, what’s the reason? Well it seemed like my unit wasn’t throwing off as much heat as I expected. Of course this is completely arbitrary, it’s my first insert I've ever had and really haven’t been around others during heating season either. But based on others opinions of the insert (Jøtul C 550 Rockland) and how large of a house they were heating with it, I felt I should be able to heat the addition to my house. The addition is 22x36, 792 sqft, 2 story (1584sqft) but half of that is open (large great room) so not sure how you factor that in. As it is right now if the temp dipped below 40ºF the insert could not keep the average temp at 70ºF. That’s not near what I hoped. I run the stove hot also so don’t blame it on my burn methods; usually cruise at 500-600º and often up to 700º. Many have suggested that block off plates prevent heat from being wasted up the chimney, and some have reported large increases in the temperature of their surrounds by the heat being trapped around the stove and not going up the masonry. I'll try to record these increases a document them as well.
Next was to design a plate that would work, and I had several problems. The big issues was that the block off plate would hold the stovepipe in a fixed horizontal plane (and vertically too if you seal it with stove cement like the article on here states). I must have a not so common stove setup since with the pipe fixed like this it would be impossible to install the insert or later remove? I guess other folks stove must have a good length of more pliable pipe to allow for installation and removal, but where my plate would go was approximately 3-4" above the stove top - so the rigid angled connector that goes into the flue collar of the stove was the same piece in the hole of the block off plate - it has to be able to move. I tested a theory and it worked - I went to the rooftop and was able to lift the entire 6" SS liner up and block it a few inches high to allow the stove to be moved into place, and then dropped back down later and inserted into the collar. So the standard design would work, I just need to be able to lift up the flue for installation and removal.
I took the measurements of the opening, and traced it all out on cardboard:
Almost all these pics have supplemental craftsman 19.2V lighting... the great room is large and dimly lit. My flash on the camera is also broke (long story, ran over the camera with my F350...)
Mocking up the cardboard cutout. This pic is before raising the flue, so you can see how close the insert will be and how the connector is still rigid at the point it passes through the block off plate.
Tracing everything out on sheet metal now:
Test fitting the final product:
I want to trap as much heat as possible and also cut down on air leak without using sealants so I went to the hardware store in search for 'rock wool' they handed me Roxul AFB. Doing a search here turned up others have used this same stuff so figure it is what I was looking for.
Done. Used a few masonry screws driven half way in to tack in place.
Not pictured: to help seal around the hole where the connector passes through I wrapped a few inches wide strip of rock wool around the connector, and secured with a piece of#12 bare copper wire (just using what I had on hand), as the pipe is lowered into the opening the wrapping contacts the block off plate with a layer or rockwool already on it, and helps seal it even thicker.
Unfortunately I wont know for several days how it turns out, its in the 50's today and tomorrow and working the next several days anyhow making it difficult to monitor things even if I was burning it. But next week I have off and I'm sure this warm weather won't last too much longer...
Like I said I haven’t run the stove yet, so this is also a chance for anyone who might see some potential problem to speak up before I use it for the first time.
!!
