My silence

[realstihl]

Well I might as well break the silence. I was not happy with the Drolet Baltic. It was just too much for my basement. I have sold it and purchased a Drolet 1800. I'm like it a whole lot better and am able to burn it hot enough to get good secondarys and clean glass with no problem. I wanted to stay with Drolet because it's good company and the quality was there. I will also say that 500° on the Baltic is not the same as 500° on the 1800. I think it has to do with how much heat is radiated from the stove. The Baltic puts out more heat but that extra that it puts out is lost to the outside of the box so I that's why it needs to be run hotter to maintain stove temp. I think this make sense. This in my opinion makes for more harsh heat. The 1800 is much softer even at high stove temps. You can buy a stove that's too large. What's interesting is that the 1800 weighs about the same as the Baltic so thermal mass has nothing to with the observations. The Baltic is a very nice woodstove but it just wasn't going to work for me. It needs a large open area to work correctly. I'm happy now.

 

[begreen]

Interesting observations rs. It sounds like a convective stove is a better fit.

 

[realstihl]

Signature changed.

 

[W.B.]

Got any pictures of it installed? I just got my 1800 last weekend and won't be able to get it installed for a while.

 

[realstihl]

Here's some pics. I have also modified the blower by removing factory blower and installing my own version running at 12 volt dc. I hate the sound of 60 hz hum. It's almost totally silent

 

[Tectop]

Well I might as well break the silence. I was not happy with the Drolet Baltic. It was just too much for my basement. I have sold it and purchased a Drolet 1800. I'm like it a whole lot better and am able to burn it hot enough to get good secondarys and clean glass with no problem. I wanted to stay with Drolet because it's good company and the quality was there. I will also say that 500° on the Baltic is not the same as 500° on the 1800. I think it has to do with how much heat is radiated from the stove. The Baltic puts out more heat but that extra that it puts out is lost to the outside of the box so I that's why it needs to be run hotter to maintain stove temp. I think this make sense. This in my opinion makes for more harsh heat. The 1800 is much softer even at high stove temps. You can buy a stove that's too large. What's interesting is that the 1800 weighs about the same as the Baltic so thermal mass has nothing to with the observations. The Baltic is a very nice woodstove but it just wasn't going to work for me. It needs a large open area to work correctly. I'm happy now.

I am wondering , is your basement finished, insulated ? Reason I am asking is I am about to install a wood heater in my basement . My basement is unfinished with block walls, one large open uninsulated area( aprox 1500 sq ft) with only a stair case going to next level where we live. Sounds like you had no problem heating your basement and not sure if your wanting heat on other floors to, I just wanting t get a feel for how mine will heat since we both are heating from basements. I am hoping the heat gets upstairs to help heat our living spaces.Thanks

 

[realstihl]

Yes,it's insulated. 3/4 foam board with foil on concrete and then studded out with r13 insulation on outside walls. When we moved in back in 1995 it wasn't insulated and the concrete walls would absorb lots of heat. Basements must be insulated if you have a woodstove.

 

[RickBlaine]

I just bought an Escape 1800 stove (delivered next week) and will be installing it in my very large fireplace. I have yet to hear the fan run but would be appreciative if you could share some insight into your fan modifications please.

Also, could you please confirm/deny that the pedestal attached to your stove is welded (no bolted) on? Thank you. I have conflicting emails from Drolet about this.

 

[realstihl]

My pedestal is bolted on. The blower originally is a small diameter squirrel cage fan.these will move lots of air over the stove and in my opinion cool it too much. I used 2 small 12 volt axial fans side by side I'm guessing they move about 30cfm each on high speed (12 volts). They are brushless motors so voltage can be lowered to slow fan speed. Right now I have them running at 9 volts. I control the blower with a digital PID control. I started using this control last year just to monitor stove temps. Once you use one you'll never go back to the magnetic thermometer . Here's the control. I fabricated the housing.

 

[RickBlaine]

Thank you for answering on the pedestal (weld vs. bolted on)! I wanted to order a set of legs too just to see which will look better in my masonry fireplace and was not sure I could remove the pedestal easily. The pedestal model was on sale, but the leg model was twice the price.

As for the fan set up, I will have to investigate further. I like your ideas. Since it is 12 volts, I take it you run it off of a battery?

Thank you again! This will have to be my weekend project now...

 

[realstihl]

You could run it off battery if needed. I run a 120v to 12v converter. This setup is just to eliminate 60 hz noise.

 

[tcassavaugh]

....all these pics make me feel like i'm standing on my head. glad you got things worked out.

 

[W.B.]

Looks good. Can't wait to get my installed.

 

[W.B.]

I just bought an Escape 1800 stove (delivered next week) and will be installing it in my very large fireplace. I have yet to hear the fan run but would be appreciative if you could share some insight into your fan modifications please.

Also, could you please confirm/deny that the pedestal attached to your stove is welded (no bolted) on? Thank you. I have conflicting emails from Drolet about this.

My pedestal is also bolted on.

 

[RickBlaine]

Even with the pedestal model shipped from the factory, are the bolt holes for legs pre-drilled? There should be two bolt holes at each corner to secure a leg. If you have a moment, please let me know if you detect those bolt holes.

I like the idea of a 120 volt AC to 12 volt converter. One of the biggest complaints I read on this forum- for many different brands, is the fan noise.

 

[logger]

I am wondering , is your basement finished, insulated ? Reason I am asking is I am about to install a wood heater in my basement . My basement is unfinished with block walls, one large open uninsulated area( aprox 1500 sq ft) with only a stair case going to next level where we live. Sounds like you had no problem heating your basement and not sure if your wanting heat on other floors to, I just wanting t get a feel for how mine will heat since we both are heating from basements. I am hoping the heat gets upstairs to help heat our living spaces.Thanks

You'll be losing an uphill battle if you dont insulate those walls at some point. Most of your heat will be lost without doing so.

 

[realstihl]

I don't know what happened to the picture. I could have sworn the were right side up last night. Maybe a moderator can fix them cause I don't know how. I've also got a couple of videos that I'm working on but I need help with that.

 

[mstoelton]

I have a Clydesdale installed in my 1600 sq ft basement. It is insulated and finished. While the basement gets nice and toasty, the upper floor (ranch) does not benefit much from the heat in the basement. Note: there is a fiberglass drop panel ceiling in the basement that is likely keeping the heat from rising. I'm in the process of installing Clydesdale #2 in the living room upstairs.

 

[Huntindog1]

Well I might as well break the silence. I was not happy with the Drolet Baltic. It was just too much for my basement. I have sold it and purchased a Drolet 1800. I'm like it a whole lot better and am able to burn it hot enough to get good secondarys and clean glass with no problem. I wanted to stay with Drolet because it's good company and the quality was there. I will also say that 500° on the Baltic is not the same as 500° on the 1800. I think it has to do with how much heat is radiated from the stove. The Baltic puts out more heat but that extra that it puts out is lost to the outside of the box so I that's why it needs to be run hotter to maintain stove temp. I think this make sense. This in my opinion makes for more harsh heat. The 1800 is much softer even at high stove temps. You can buy a stove that's too large. What's interesting is that the 1800 weighs about the same as the Baltic so thermal mass has nothing to with the observations. The Baltic is a very nice woodstove but it just wasn't going to work for me. It needs a large open area to work correctly. I'm happy now.

I see your point , looking at the design of the two stoves the new stove the escape 1800 is designed differently. Its design is such that the 1800 wont put out as harsh heat. Its a tube stove with a baffle that insulates the firebox above the tubes for higher efficiency. Which is rated at 77 Percent efficiency and 3.89 grams emissions. Your getting this by keep the firebox temps up easier over a longer period of time thus burning more complete. The heat in the firebox is not going to directly radiate up thru the top of the stove but heat will radiate as the hot gas flows towards the front of stove goes by the front glass then shoots up above that insulated baffle plate and then some of the heat is able to radiate up thru the top plate of the stove. These stoves throw alot of heat out the front and top of stove. Usually the fire brick in these stove are higher up the sides of the firebox insulating the firebox more leading to that higher efficiency. Your new stove has side plates on the side creating more of a convective type stove of air flowing between those side plates and the stove rather than being a pure radiating type heat out the sides of the stove.

Now the Baltic is more of a stove design for maximum radiating heat out the top and sides. The firebrick which acts to insulate the firebox and keep some of the heat in for efficient burns, the fire brink in this stove only goes up about half way up the stove sides and back. There is at the half way point of the fire box and above only is steel, that is not insulating the box at that point but is radiating heat out into the room. The stainless steel baffle that provides the secondary air does not have any insulation on it or in it. All that heat in the fire box can more easily radiate up to the top plate and sides of the stove accounting for more heat from the stove. Not being able to hold as much heat in the firebox accounts for its lower efficiency and emissions rating. Its rated at 5.7 grams emissions and 75% efficiency. But I am not sure if a person needing more heat in a bigger house or a bigger room will have an issue with the lower ratings since the stove is getting heat out into the room like it does in those stoves. In my Myriad which is the same firebox as the Baltic but the baltic does have those side plates on it.
So I would say the smaller firebox along with an insulated baffle plate makes for a less harsh heat for you.

And yes you would be right that to maintain secondaries is about maintaining heat in the firebox. The 1800 stove with a more insulated firebox will be able to run at lower levels and still maitain the heat needed for secondaries firing. Plus smaller stoves have less space to maintain heat and thus smaller stoves in general are more efficient in non-cat type stoves.

If with the bigger firebox of the baltic you were loading it only 75% you would make it harder for the stove to maintain secondaries with all the extra open space of the not fully loaded stove.

 

[realstihl]

You summed it up better than me. I think you're explanation is right on. Thanks!

 

[RickBlaine]

@realstihl: Please if you get a chance, can you confirm/deny pre-drilled holes for legs at the corners of your firebox? Again, Drolet sent me conflicting info on whether their pedestal model can be converted by adding legs. My Drolet Escape 1800 (with pedestal) will arrive at my local Menards on Tuesday- I would like to order the legs and install it all in one shot.

Also, if you don't mind me asking, what is the square footage in your basement...and in the upstairs?

@W.B.: Thank you. When will you install your stove?

 

[realstihl]

@realstihl: Please if you get a chance, can you confirm/deny pre-drilled holes for legs at the corners of your firebox? Again, Drolet sent me conflicting info on whether their pedestal model can be converted by adding legs. My Drolet Escape 1800 (with pedestal) will arrive at my local Menards on Tuesday- I would like to order the legs and install it all in one shot.

Also, if you don't mind me asking, what is the square footage in your basement...and in the upstairs?

@W.B.: Thank you. When will you install your stove?

I don't see any pre-drilled holes for leg option. I think your sol on that one. It shouldn't be too hard to drill your own, I looked up replacement parts and the bolts are 1/4-20X3/4. Drill size will be 13/64 or 7/32. My room size in basement is 400sq ft. and the first floor is 800. Second floor is 800 also.

 

[RickBlaine]

THANK YOU

That is a lot of sq ft to heat. Glad to hear you are content with it.