N/S vs. E/W

[Scott2373]

I've read that loading wood either way has different results, but I'm not entirely clear on the concept. I've been loading my stove in a criss-cross fashion to maintain wood stability and air flow. I've had excellent results so far by doing this. What are the dis/advantages of each method? Thanks!

 

[shawneyboy]

Depends on stove and where/how the air enters. My stove has a doghouse at the base of the door. If I load E/W the front log inhibits air from the doghouse from reaching the rear of the stove. If I load N/S the areas between the splits channel the air to the rear. For me N/S loads promote complete and efficent burning. I have no wood stability issues with a complete N/S load.

Another disadvantage to E/W loading is the potential of a log rolling out when opening the front door. Some stoves have andirons to help solve this problem.

It all really comes down to stove design. Some are E/W designed, some are N/S design. If your stove is only say 1 foot deep but it is 1.5 feet wide, then you get the same amount of wood in there loading E/W with less work bucking it.

I am sure others will chime in, but for me and my stove it is N/S only.

Shawn

 

[Wood Duck]

If you are loading criss-cross with long splits you are leaving a lot of air space in the firebox. This can give a great, hot burn, but doesn't allow you to pack the firebox as full as you could with the splits all in one alignment. With a typical stove, loading E/W (side of each split faces the door) allows longer splits to be used so less processing of firewood is required, and in my stove this type of load seems to burn a little more slowly, especially at start up. This might be what you're looking for. Loading N/S (the end of each split faces the door) generally requires shorter splits. However, in most stoves the air enters at the front, flows down the door ("Airwash") to keep the glass clean, then enters the fire, so N/S loading allows the air to flow between the splits more readily than with E/W loading. In my stove this gives a better start, especially with a cold start. N/S loading also allows me to pack the wood more closely together because I can see the gaps between splits better. I prefer N/S loading and I spend some time cutting 18 inch splits in half to allow N/S loading. I often load the lowest layer of wood N/S, then load a layer E/W on top. This gives a good start but allows me to use some longer splits, which are easier to cut, stack, and move than twice as many shorter splits would be.

 

[begreen]

Are you burning strictly slab wood? If so, conventional rules may not apply. It needs to be stacked in a fashion that allows some airflow.

 

[NH_Wood]

Depends on stove and where/how the air enters. My stove has a doghouse at the base of the door. If I load E/W the front log inhibits air from the doghouse from reaching the rear of the stove. If I load N/S the areas between the splits channel the air to the rear. For me N/S loads promote complete and efficent burning. I have no wood stability issues with a complete N/S load.

Another disadvantage to E/W loading is the potential of a log rolling out when opening the front door. Some stoves have andirons to help solve this problem.

It all really comes down to stove design. Some are E/W designed, some are N/S design. If your stove is only say 1 foot deep but it is 1.5 feet wide, then you get the same amount of wood in there loading E/W with less work bucking it.

I am sure others will chime in, but for me and my stove it is N/S only.

Shawn

Same stove and exactly the same points to make as shawneyboy - wood loading depends much on how the air enters the firebox - allowing the air to efficiently circulate around the wood will allow for a new load to catch faster, burning cleaner in a quicker time, and give a more complete combustion. As BeGreen said, packing slab wood too tight will be a problem - you will have to find the right mix of air space between slabs. And, as WoodDuck pointed out, crisscross stacks are great at this time of year for quicker, hot fires, but when you need sustained burns in winter, not so good. Cheers!

 

[bogydave]

Well said, Stove type.
Also good dry wood can be stacked tighter together N/S in my stove, the air comes across the top of the stove & down the glass door.
So for me to stack it & leave air space, I get less wood in the stove & shorter burn times, the wood still burns from the front middle.
After a long burn , I have a few wood chunks & hot coals on the very left & right corners with ash in the middle.
Stove type mostly, + dry wood.

 

[woodchip]

Sometimes when I have loaded NS, end grain can put out what looks like gas jets of flame and smoke the glass, even with the airwash system.

Other than that, I don't really have a preference

 

[ohlongarm]

I experimented this week using my King Ultra,NS,EW using only 3/4 of a load white ash I got 20 hours using both methods,the stove cruised on 1.5 at 500 forever house was 74 degrees when she started at 7:30am at 4:00am house was 70 degrees. Opened bypass only baby powder consistency ash left,fired her up again. can't wait for the real test yet to come,I think this unit will pass the test.Stovetop temp was about 250 and the cat probe showed it exactly on the line that indicates inactive/active I'd better fill this dude up soon or MR. Maxim will be all over me. Thanks