NC-30 Door Latch

[jminacci]

Hi Everyone,

I posted not too long ago that I had picked up my second 30-NC for $400. I'm really pleased(except for some abused baffle boards) and will be installing in the near future. For the heck of it, I gave it the old dollar bill test when buying it and boy was it tight. It was made in 2004 I believe. My current running 30 was purchased new in '09 and it doesn't pass the dollar bill test. I've ordered two baffle boards for the older stove and a door gasket kit for my '09 purchase. Another thing that I notice is that my '09 stove's door handle has a lot of slop in it. After I replace the door gasket, should this help? There is a build up of creosote type stuff where the door gaskets "seal" along the bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BrotherBart]

If you didn't use high density door gasket you won't be able to latch the door right. The latch will slide right off the end of that wedge inside the stove. The rope from the stove shop or hardware store is low density and won't get the job done. BTDT. High density rope is hard to find. If you know of a boiler repair supply place around they should have it. Or a few places online. Otherwise it is order the stuff from ESW and bleed through the ears at the shipping cost.

That is why even though I didn't need baffle boards or gaskets I went ahead and got'em in the early bird package special last fall for $119 shipping included and put'em on the shelf.

 

[jminacci]

I forgot to mention that I ordered the stuff from ESW. I'm thinking the gaskets should make a huge difference. I also broke down and ordered a set of 6 inch legs. I guess Santa will be coming in the form of ESW. BrotherBart, where did you get that awesome paint for your stove?