Near boiler Piping Bypass Valve

[huffdawg]

Ive been looking at few pics of various near boiler piping configurations and noticed some have the bypass valve on the vertical section of pipe above the danfoss and some have it on the bypass piping to the cool water return. Does this matter. or what is the preferable method.

Huff

 

[taxidermist]

Ive been looking at few pics of various near boiler piping configurations and noticed some have the bypass valve on the vertical section of pipe above the danfoss and some have it on the bypass piping to the cool water return. Does this matter. or what is the preferable method.

Huff

Huff, The ball valve must go in your vert. pipe to adjust flow over your danfoss. I think you might be seeing isolation valves in place before the danfoss to shut off water flow from storage in case you need to repair the danfoss.

I think this what your asking?

Rob

 

[huffdawg]

Ive been looking at few pics of various near boiler piping configurations and noticed some have the bypass valve on the vertical section of pipe above the danfoss and some have it on the bypass piping to the cool water return. Does this matter. or what is the preferable method.

Huff

Huff, The ball valve must go in your vert. pipe to adjust flow over your danfoss. I think you might be seeing isolation valves in place before the danfoss to shut off water flow from storage in case you need to repair the danfoss.

I think this what your asking?

Rob

Yes your pic. was one of the ones I was refering to . I tried to simulate how yours is piped . Here is a pic. I hope its right there is a lot of work involved. I think my pump needs to be turned 90 degrees too.

 

[goosegunner]

Is this what you are talking about?

I put my pump on the supply side. But the ball valve is shown. I talked to the tech at Danfoss. He said it could go either location.

The ball valve is closed to limit the amount of supply water that is diverted.

gg

 

[Hunderliggur]

I hate to say it, but it looks like your ball valve is set to bypass the Danfoss and and inject into the return line directly. You need a ball valve where the union is to limit the flow/pressure on the hot input to te Danfoss. The leg with the ball valve looks like it is feeding HOT into the return line (what the Danfoss does with a thermostat). That leg is not needed. I suspect not shown is the HOT output going to storage above? Nice work though. (Do you have a piping diagram for review?)

New Horizons has the pdf of the installation data sheet http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/ESBEmixingDanfoss.pdf

 

[woodsmaster]

I hate to say it, but it looks like your ball valve is set to bypass the Danfoss and and inject into the return line directly. You need a ball valve where the union is to limit the flow/pressure on the hot input to te Danfoss. The leg with the ball valve looks like it is feeding HOT into the return line (what the Danfoss does with a thermostat). That leg is not needed. I suspect not shown is the HOT output going to storage above? Nice work though. (Do you have a piping diagram for review?)

New Horizons has the pdf of the installation data sheet http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/ESBEmixingDanfoss.pdf

+ 1

 

[woodsmaster]

The pump does need rotated. I made the same mistake.

 

[taxidermist]

Huff,

Close your ball valve on the danfoss bypass. I installed that short loop in case I had to leave town so I could circulate water from my storage to boiler and back to keep the boiler from freezing in my cold barn. If you were using my pictures then I bet you have a ball valve on your vert. line above that union right?




Rob

 

[huffdawg]

[quote author="taxidermist" date="1296238947"]Huff,

Close your ball valve on the danfoss bypass. I installed that short loop in case I had to leave town so I could circulate water from my storage to boiler and back to keep the boiler from freezing in my cold barn. If you were using my pictures then I bet you have a ball valve on your vert. line above that union right?



I didnt see the upper ball valve in your pics. I think its behind the expansion tank. It wont be to hard to add a valve on mine by the upper coupling above the danfoss.

 

[huffdawg]

I hate to say it, but it looks like your ball valve is set to bypass the Danfoss and and inject into the return line directly. You need a ball valve where the union is to limit the flow/pressure on the hot input to te Danfoss. The leg with the ball valve looks like it is feeding HOT into the return line (what the Danfoss does with a thermostat). That leg is not needed. I suspect not shown is the HOT output going to storage above? Nice work though. (Do you have a piping diagram for review?)

New Horizons has the pdf of the installation data sheet http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/ESBEmixingDanfoss.pdf

Im not calling it nice work till I pressure test it . Got sore arms today though. I have I diagram , also been checking out near boiler pics from here.
If I would of read Robs blog more thouroughly I might not of put that leg in. :lol:

 

[Fred61]

Also, when you have that union disconnected, take a look down into the Danfoss. You should see the bulb (sensor) side of the automotive thermostat within the Danfoss housing. You cant always trust the diagram on the side of the unit.

 

[huffdawg]

Also, when you have that union disconnected, take a look down into the Danfoss. You should see the bulb (sensor) side of the automotive thermostat within the Danfoss housing. You cant always trust the diagram on the side of the unit.

Yes thanx. I checked that specifically after reading a couple threads about the danfoss sticker orientation errors. On my Danfoss the sticker was oriented the correct way.


Huff

 

[taxidermist]

Just think Huff now you can be cool like me! LOL! I now have a warm barn so I dont need this feature anymore but ya never know!


Rob

 

[huffdawg]

Just think Huff now you can be cool like me! LOL! I now have a warm barn so I dont need this feature anymore but ya never know!


Rob

Extra bells and whistles are always nice.

 

[Fred61]

I get where the balancing valve goes and why it's there, but I can't figure out how you know how much it should be open. Just as closed as possible while still getting acceptable return temps? Do you guys have a separate thermometer at the return entry point?

It's more of a "seat of the pants" thing than it is scientific. You need some recirc flow to initially open the thermostat but you don't want so much that you only get flow through the recirc loop. However if you don't have enough recirc flow to mix with the water returning from the system that is (at first) too cool to keep the thermostat open, it will close up on you. Am I playing tricks with your mind yet? To get over this exercise as soon as possible, increase your pump launch setting to 170 or 175 degrees and keep your recirc loop throttled down as low as you can and still be able to work or if you are around when the temperature of the boiler is rising, start with the ball valve half open and when it reaches temperature, go back and close it a little more.

 

[goosegunner]

I get where the balancing valve goes and why it's there, but I can't figure out how you know how much it should be open. Just as closed as possible while still getting acceptable return temps? Do you guys have a separate thermometer at the return entry point?

I have temp gauges before and after my Danfoss.

gg

 

[taxidermist]

I use one of these. It made a big difference knowing what your temp is as to open or close ball valve. (broken link removed)

Rob

 

[huffdawg]

Not cool like Rob anymore. LOL . danfoss pic shows orientation ,I hope thats right.

 

[Fred61]

Everything looks real good, nice job. I see you rotated the circulator while you had your sleeves rolled up.

 

[goosegunner]

Nice Job!

Danfoss inners look right too.

Is that room in your basement? Looks like a nice area.

Is that a wall heater near the pump?

gg

 

[huffdawg]

Nice Job!

Danfoss inners look right too.

Is that room in your basement? Looks like a nice area.

Is that a wall heater near the pump?

gg

It is a room I built onto the back of my 24/36' shop . It is 7'-1/2" wide by 13' long and 10'-6" high .
I installed the wall heater so it wont freeze in there . It also keeps me nice and warm while working in there .
I also used 5/8" firecode drywall.
2x6 framed

 

[goosegunner]

Remind me what brand your boiler is?

That is similar to my setup. I did the same with FireX 5/8ths drywall.

You are going to really like that room. Mine stays around 80 degrees. My wife even makes the 100'+ walk out there without her coat.

Warm room, Fluorescent lights, dry wood. it sure beats the Outdoor set up re ran last year.

gg

 

[huffdawg]

Its an EKO 40 . gg. Here's my primary loop starting to take shape. The circ pump is an Alpha 2 . I need to flip the pump body 180 degrees, is it pretty straight forward. I wished I would of had a spud wrench for all the ball valves,all the pipe wrench teeth marks will haunt me for ever.

 

[Hunderliggur]

I drilled a 1/8" hole in the Danfoss plate (per the suggestion of Mark at AHONA) to allow cold return water to always flow in the loop, even just a little bit. Makes the balancing valve work more reliably at the price of a degree or two in the balance. I have not had any problems with the arrangement.

 

[taxidermist]

Looks very nice Huff....and your still cool LOL


Rob