Need advice on installing woodburner into existing open fireplace.

[Mrtown]

Going to be putting this woodburner insert into the existing open fire place and wanted to know

1. If its ok to block off the smoke shelf opening with sheet metal and insulation on top of it.

2. Do I need a flue liner or can I just run the flue up a meter or 2 through Mr blocking plate and why.

3. Do I need to line the inside walls with insulation or anything or are the bricks ok. Thank you

Also this fireplace is in the middle of the living room and not connected to any external wall, you can walk around the whole thing.

 

[TomMcDonald]

Going to be putting this woodburner insert into the existing open fire place and wanted to know

1. If its ok to block off the smoke shelf opening with sheet metal and insulation on top of it.

2. Do I need a flue liner or can I just run the flue up a meter or 2 through Mr blocking plate and why.

3. Do I need to line the inside walls with insulation or anything or are the bricks ok. Thank you

Also this fireplace is in the middle of the living room and not connected to any external wall, you can walk around the whole thing.

View attachment 313038 View attachment 313039 View attachment 313040

Yes, you can block off the opening with sheet steel and insulation, ensuring your insulation is fireproof. In fact, this is a necessity as the heat will go up the chimney otherwise. I would also recommend a fan to get it out of the cavity.

You'll need a full length flue as it's illegal in Australia not to. It needs to be 4.6m in height from the floor. This will also assist with maintaining optimal draught.

You don't need to line the bricks with insulation. As it's an internal chimney the bricks will absorb the heat which will be released into the room rather than the outdoors.

 

[begreen]

You don't need to line the bricks with insulation. As it's an internal chimney the bricks will absorb the heat which will be released into the room rather than the outdoors.

Is that code in Australia? In the US and Canada, the requirement for insulating the liner is based on the clearance of the chimney masonry from any combustible around it. For an interior chimney, this is 2". For an exterior chimney, it is 1". An uninsulated liner is likely to be in direct contact with the inside of the chimney at points. If there is wood in direct contact with the outside of the chimney, as is common, then the heat transmitted via the masonry can set up conditions for pyrolysis.

 

[Mrtown]

Is that code in Australia? In the US and Canada, the requirement for insulating the liner is based on the clearance of the chimney masonry from any combustible around it. For an interior chimney, this is 2". For an exterior chimney, it is 1". An uninsulated liner is likely to be in direct contact with the inside of the chimney at points. If there is wood in direct contact with the outside of the chimney, as is common, then the heat transmitted via the masonry can set up conditions for pyrolysis.

Hey mate, I could be 100% wrong but wouldn't pyrolysis be non applicable in this case or maybe already thought of as in they built it so the timbers that are touching arnt

Is that code in Australia? In the US and Canada, the requirement for insulating the liner is based on the clearance of the chimney masonry from any combustible around it. For an interior chimney, this is 2". For an exterior chimney, it is 1". An uninsulated liner is likely to be in direct contact with the inside of the chimney at points. If there is wood in direct contact with the outside of the chimney, as is common, then the heat transmitted via the masonry can set up conditions for pyrolysis.

affected. Including another picture for reference. And thanks for the feedback

 

[EbS-P]

I would consider insulating the f

Hey mate, I could be 100% wrong but wouldn't pyrolysis be non applicable in this case or maybe already thought of as in they built it so the timbers that are touching arnt


affected. Including another picture for reference. And thanks for the feedback

View attachment 313058 Link Removed

what does it look like in the attic and where it exits the roof. Insulating the liner is a good solution that addresses other people mistakes. I have framing touching the masonry in the attic and roof decking too.

That looks great btw.

PS have you measured everything? Will the raised firebox floor be an issue.

PPS. I like the TV mount. I did the same thing. But the tv will get hot. I’m considering flat mounting mine.

 

[Ashful]

To resurrect the recurrent words of @bholler: "A chimney built to code does not require insulation between a newly-placed liner and the chimney, but very few chimneys we come across are actually built to current code."

Aside from that, insulating the liner will improve draft and reduce creosote accumulation, by keeping the flue gasses warm all the way to the top of the flue. Those running with uninsulated liners are more apt to experience weak draft and creosote accumulation near the top of the flue.

Insulating a liner is not tough, unless your existing flue is too tight. You basically wrap a foil-backed insulation blanket around the liner, and affix it with foil tape and wire, before sliding it down the flue. They're typically sold as a kit, liner + insulation + tape and wire.

 

[begreen]

Hey mate, I could be 100% wrong but wouldn't pyrolysis be non applicable in this case or maybe already thought of as in they built it so the timbers that are touching arnt


affected. Including another picture for reference. And thanks for the feedback

View attachment 313058

The clearances are still of concern at and above the ceiling and up through the roof. Are they 2" all the way? Is the large crown molding at the ceiling non-combustible?

 

[TomMcDonald]

Is that code in Australia? In the US and Canada, the requirement for insulating the liner is based on the clearance of the chimney masonry from any combustible around it. For an interior chimney, this is 2". For an exterior chimney, it is 1". An uninsulated liner is likely to be in direct contact with the inside of the chimney at points. If there is wood in direct contact with the outside of the chimney, as is common, then the heat transmitted via the masonry can set up conditions for pyrolysis.

To resurrect the recurrent words of @bholler: "A chimney built to code does not require insulation between a newly-placed liner and the chimney, but very few chimneys we come across are actually built to current code."

Aside from that, insulating the liner will improve draft and reduce creosote accumulation, by keeping the flue gasses warm all the way to the top of the flue. Those running with uninsulated liners are more apt to experience weak draft and creosote accumulation near the top of the flue.

Insulating a liner is not tough, unless your existing flue is too tight. You basically wrap a foil-backed insulation blanket around the liner, and affix it with foil tape and wire, before sliding it down the flue. They're typically sold as a kit, liner + insulation + tape and wire.

You can't really buy insulated flue kits here - the only thing that comes close is double wall and I'm not sure that's appropriate in this situation.

 

[Ashful]

You can't really buy insulated flue kits here - the only thing that comes close is double wall and I'm not sure that's appropriate in this situation.

Yeah, double wall is coaxial stove pipe, which is good for connecting stove to liner, if liner stops at ceiling and you need to span the gap from stove collar to ceiling. But it's not made to go inside a chimney.

If you can't buy as a kit, then probably separate. Something like this:

CHIMNEY LINER INSULATION KIT 3" to 6" LINERS x 25' | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CHIMNEY LINER INSULATION KIT 3" to 6" LINERS x 25' at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[TomMcDonald]

Is that code in Australia? In the US and Canada, the requirement for insulating the liner is based on the clearance of the chimney masonry from any combustible around it. For an interior chimney, this is 2". For an exterior chimney, it is 1". An uninsulated liner is likely to be in direct contact with the inside of the chimney at points. If there is wood in direct contact with the outside of the chimney, as is common, then the heat transmitted via the masonry can set up conditions for pyrolysis.

Using a 6" single skin flexible liner or rigid flue pipe is really all that's done over here with masonry installs. There is generally no consideration made to what's on the other side of brick chimneys or fireboxes.
I'd never even heard of insulated liners till I joined this forum.

 

[bholler]

Using a 6" single skin flexible liner or rigid flue pipe is really all that's done over here with masonry installs. There is generally no consideration made to what's on the other side of brick chimneys or fireboxes.
I'd never even heard of insulated liners till I joined this forum.

Most people here have never heard of them either. Most stove shops didn't install insulation for years many still dont