Mine is a "10" and does have the lid switch, might want to make sure the switch is deactivting when closing the hopper lid.
Need emergency pellet stove help.
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Mine is a "10" and does have the lid switch, might want to make sure the switch is deactivting when closing the hopper lid.
The stove the OP has was built WAAAAY before '10. I'm guessing that stove is late 90's, early '00s from the way the front lip is designed, the hopper lid latches that aren't flush and the steep angle to the burn pot.
i have no idea what year it is guys.
But like i said i kept the hatch closed and sealed just in case and the auger did nothing.
How would i get in there to check for/ clear any clogs in the top auger?
I dont have an air compressor.
But like i said i kept the hatch closed and sealed just in case and the auger did nothing.
How would i get in there to check for/ clear any clogs in the top auger?
I dont have an air compressor.
Make sure you unplug the stove to start off. The only way I know to check for of clear a clog is to remove the sugar. I don't know your stove so I'm going to give you some general suggestions.
Look to see how the top augar comes out and take it out. Clean everything again and put it back together. Does it now run? You need to have ample pellets in the hooper for most stoves to work. Half a bag at the min. I. Would think. It also takes a lot of trying to start a stove once they have run out of pellets. On mine I have to try to start it 8 times to get everything primed well enough for the stove to run.
As the switches, POF switch, and the vacuum switch are there to protect you don't bypass them other then to find the problem. You are asking for trouble if you jumper them and run the stove for any length of time. Money issues aside it isn't safe to do. You need to find a way not to run the stove with switches jumpered.
All the switches, POF, and vacuum switch if there is one can be jumpered to see what is wrong with your stove.
People have asked if the metal panel in the door is really well sealed? Is it?
These stoves operate under a vacuum and there can't be any air leaks or the stove will not run. The panel in the door needs to be sealed as well as the door its self. Do a search under the dollar bill test to check the front door seals.
You can jump any of the devices you think might be bad by disconnecting the 2 wires and joining them together. The stove needs to be unplugged prior to doing any electrical work. Plug the stove back in once the wires are securely connect and protected from touching anything metal.
You might try putting some white paint on the top augar to see if in fact it is moving since you have been told it's very slow.
Check out some of what I've posted and let us know what you find.
Look to see how the top augar comes out and take it out. Clean everything again and put it back together. Does it now run? You need to have ample pellets in the hooper for most stoves to work. Half a bag at the min. I. Would think. It also takes a lot of trying to start a stove once they have run out of pellets. On mine I have to try to start it 8 times to get everything primed well enough for the stove to run.
As the switches, POF switch, and the vacuum switch are there to protect you don't bypass them other then to find the problem. You are asking for trouble if you jumper them and run the stove for any length of time. Money issues aside it isn't safe to do. You need to find a way not to run the stove with switches jumpered.
All the switches, POF, and vacuum switch if there is one can be jumpered to see what is wrong with your stove.
People have asked if the metal panel in the door is really well sealed? Is it?
These stoves operate under a vacuum and there can't be any air leaks or the stove will not run. The panel in the door needs to be sealed as well as the door its self. Do a search under the dollar bill test to check the front door seals.
You can jump any of the devices you think might be bad by disconnecting the 2 wires and joining them together. The stove needs to be unplugged prior to doing any electrical work. Plug the stove back in once the wires are securely connect and protected from touching anything metal.
You might try putting some white paint on the top augar to see if in fact it is moving since you have been told it's very slow.
Check out some of what I've posted and let us know what you find.
From here it looks quite similar to mine, except you have the brass lovers on the sides.
Mine is a '98, and does not have a hopper switch on it .. nor any indication it might have had one.
I couldn't find the name plate on mine for a while ... I was only looking in the back and inside.
My label was on the left side (looking at the stove from the front) ... under the vent/exhaust motor. You might need a flashlight and end up on your hands and feet to see the thing. (well .. at least I did!
) Having the proper model number and year of manufacture really helps in finding replacement parts, and accurate help. These things are pretty generic though.
Mine has a replacement controller on the opposite side has the 3 'magic buttons' along the bottom, the OFF and ON buttons above that, and the 2 sets of up and down arrows .. one for Heat Range and the other for Blower (room air blower). I don't have the model number handy, but perhaps yours has been replace with some similar. If so, diagnostics of basic components is pretty easy, to help eliminate or narrow down failures.
Do a search for 25-PDV controller diagnostics. This process allows you to turn on and off the vent motor, room air blower, upper and lower augers ... all independently. If you can't find it, let me know ... I'll go looking for it. I stumbled on it on the forum here, and was very helpful in determining all my components at least ran on demand!
One good thing to have initially, would be the service video from ESW ... it's free (but maybe only with a purchase, I don't know ... ) It shows how the augers and blowers come out and go back in ... visually.
In normal operation, the upper auger doesn't run continuously. One of the things the Heat Range buttons do, is control the rate of speed the pellets are fed from the hopper to the lower auger .. via the upper auger. It runs for so many seconds, then stops for so many seconds, and repeats. Sounds like yours isn't moving at all. It isn't difficult to remove the augers. One set bolt allows the auger motor to be removed, and then you have easy access to the 4 bolts that hold the auger bearing/auger assembly. It comes out all as one piece. Of course, it's best to remove the augers with an empty hopper! ;-)
The auger should turn freely, and without significant wobble in it's bearing. Mine has quite a bit of wobble in the lower auger, but so far, just results in an occasional squeak. Both of my auger bearings have grease zircs, so I loaded them up with grease before re-assembly.
Hope this helps. Kinda generic, I know. Most all above I gleaned from other helpful folks on the forum, or taking things apart. Your mileage may vary .. ;-)
Best of luck!
Mine is a '98, and does not have a hopper switch on it .. nor any indication it might have had one.
I couldn't find the name plate on mine for a while ... I was only looking in the back and inside.
My label was on the left side (looking at the stove from the front) ... under the vent/exhaust motor. You might need a flashlight and end up on your hands and feet to see the thing. (well .. at least I did!
) Having the proper model number and year of manufacture really helps in finding replacement parts, and accurate help. These things are pretty generic though.Mine has a replacement controller on the opposite side has the 3 'magic buttons' along the bottom, the OFF and ON buttons above that, and the 2 sets of up and down arrows .. one for Heat Range and the other for Blower (room air blower). I don't have the model number handy, but perhaps yours has been replace with some similar. If so, diagnostics of basic components is pretty easy, to help eliminate or narrow down failures.
Do a search for 25-PDV controller diagnostics. This process allows you to turn on and off the vent motor, room air blower, upper and lower augers ... all independently. If you can't find it, let me know ... I'll go looking for it. I stumbled on it on the forum here, and was very helpful in determining all my components at least ran on demand!
One good thing to have initially, would be the service video from ESW ... it's free (but maybe only with a purchase, I don't know ... ) It shows how the augers and blowers come out and go back in ... visually.
In normal operation, the upper auger doesn't run continuously. One of the things the Heat Range buttons do, is control the rate of speed the pellets are fed from the hopper to the lower auger .. via the upper auger. It runs for so many seconds, then stops for so many seconds, and repeats. Sounds like yours isn't moving at all. It isn't difficult to remove the augers. One set bolt allows the auger motor to be removed, and then you have easy access to the 4 bolts that hold the auger bearing/auger assembly. It comes out all as one piece. Of course, it's best to remove the augers with an empty hopper! ;-)
The auger should turn freely, and without significant wobble in it's bearing. Mine has quite a bit of wobble in the lower auger, but so far, just results in an occasional squeak. Both of my auger bearings have grease zircs, so I loaded them up with grease before re-assembly.
Hope this helps. Kinda generic, I know. Most all above I gleaned from other helpful folks on the forum, or taking things apart. Your mileage may vary .. ;-)
Best of luck!
unplug the stove take the rear panel off, grab the upper auger motor and try to move it upwards if it moves the auger is not jammed unless of course it sheared internally somewhere , should move about 90 degrees up and also look in hopper while doing this you should see the auger movement.
Please remember to inform your homeowners insurance that you installed a pellet stove. If you don't let them know and something bad happens, they could deny your claim.
I really hope you get your stove up and running!
I really hope you get your stove up and running!
The auger wasn't jammed!
I'm an idiot and didn't see this frayed wire!
SHE LIVES, AND FEEDS!
now i just need to put some bricks under her
(broken image removed)
I'm an idiot and didn't see this frayed wire!
SHE LIVES, AND FEEDS!
now i just need to put some bricks under her
(broken image removed)
thank you all so much for you help.
I will get the floor fire proofed with some brick and run it tonight and let you guys know how it goes.
I will get the floor fire proofed with some brick and run it tonight and let you guys know how it goes.
Even a sheet of steel underneath would be better than nothing...
From the manual:
FLOOR AND WALL PROTECTION
Floor Protection
If your floor is constructed of a non-combustible material such as brick or concrete, there is no
need for floor protection. If the floor is constructed of a combustible material such as hardwood,
linoleum, or carpet, then you will be required to use floor protection between the unit and the
combustible. The protection should be U.L. approved or equivalent (ULC if Canada) and must be
large enough to provide a minimum of one inch (1.0”) behind, four inches (4.0”) on both sides of the
stove and at least six inches (6.0”) in the front of the unit. This floor protection is intended as spark
and ember protection only, therefore it need only be non-combustible (there is no required R value).
As briansol mentioned, hopefully you have a wall thimble and appropriate venting. Is there a Habitat for Humanity Restore (or similar) near you where you may be able to get the appropriate materials... I know some jurisdictions will help out with heating requirements for those that are in need (Erie County in New York had a voucher system).
Its all good man.
I got some brick and a grate underneath it so it isnt even touching the wood floor and has like 4-6 inches of clearance off the floor now.
I will not be running this stove every day, im saving it for when it gets really really cold.
Glad you're up and running, BH Davis. And folks inquiring about your venting and thimble set-up are just trying to look out for your safety, brother.
Here's an article link with pics to a structure fire in ME earlier this fall that burned to the ground from an improperly vented pellet stove, self-installed by the homeowner on his 1st burn of the season, and left 21 people homeless. http://www.wmtw.com/news/fire-destroys-west-paris-home/28175188
Luckily, no one was killed or injured in that fire. But unfortunately, not so lucky two weekends back when we had 6 young people tragically killed in a structure fire, though no official cause has been released yet. There were no functioning smoke or CO detectors in either building, despite the fact that local fire depts will give those away for free to people who otherwise might not be able to afford one, funded from grant money or donations that they get.
Fire in a residence is one of the scariest things to hear when my rescue squad tone goes off. Appreciate that this is my emergency services profession 'talking', where we see this preventable loss of life and / or property too often in our job. Safety first !
Here's an article link with pics to a structure fire in ME earlier this fall that burned to the ground from an improperly vented pellet stove, self-installed by the homeowner on his 1st burn of the season, and left 21 people homeless. http://www.wmtw.com/news/fire-destroys-west-paris-home/28175188
Luckily, no one was killed or injured in that fire. But unfortunately, not so lucky two weekends back when we had 6 young people tragically killed in a structure fire, though no official cause has been released yet. There were no functioning smoke or CO detectors in either building, despite the fact that local fire depts will give those away for free to people who otherwise might not be able to afford one, funded from grant money or donations that they get.
Fire in a residence is one of the scariest things to hear when my rescue squad tone goes off. Appreciate that this is my emergency services profession 'talking', where we see this preventable loss of life and / or property too often in our job. Safety first !
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