Need help ASAP on install please

[Vanskills]

Howdy,

Im installing a Blaze King Princess tis weekend (I have limited time home)

I'm a little confused about the owners manual clearances (believe me I have tried to figure it out)

Each side has 11" inches to side wall of stove..If I install dura rock with a 2" air space gap would I be ok with tat alcove install?

Thank you in advance

 

[bholler]

Howdy,

Im installing a Blaze King Princess tis weekend (I have limited time home)

I'm a little confused about the owners manual clearances (believe me I have tried to figure it out)

Each side has 11" inches to side wall of stove..If I install dura rock with a 2" air space gap would I be ok with tat alcove install?

Thank you in advance

WHat do the instructions say? What clearances do they allow for and do they allow for clearance reduction with proper shields?

 

[Vanskills]

I don't understand what G is on diagram, makes no sense to me

 

[Vanskills]

I don't know if I'm stupid or what but I can't figure out the correct clearance if I place durorock on wall with 2" inch air gap.....doesn't make sense to me

 

[bholler]

G is the hearth protection. What is the required side clearances for an alcove install? Is that the 10"?

 

[bholler]

Well as long as you have the side sheilds on the stove and have the 11" you say there is no need for the durarock at all. It only needs 10"

 

[Vanskills]

Great thanks, I had no idea what the G was

 

[Highbeam]

Your ceiling support box will cause problems. It's right up against the combustible wall which means you will only have 2" to the black pipe. Even double wall requires 6". What's your plan there?

 

[bholler]

Your ceiling support box will cause problems. It's right up against the combustible wall which means you will only have 2" to the black pipe. Even double wall requires 6". What's your plan there?

Good catch no way to get proper clearance there at all

 

[armanidog]

Your ceiling support box will cause problems. It's right up against the combustible wall which means you will only have 2" to the black pipe. Even double wall requires 6". What's your plan there?

Uh-oh. He could stop that wall 4- feet short of the ceiling (if it's not load bearing). But then you worry about folks (esp kids) reaching over and touching that pipe.

I think the best thing would be to find another location for the stove.

 

[Vanskills]

I just moved into the house....it had triple wall from that support box horizontal 36 inches than 90 and single wall

 

[Niko]

I just moved into the house....it had triple wall from that support box horizontal 36 inches than 90 and single wall

You got pictures of the old setup?

 

[Vanskills]

You got pictures of the old setup?

I'll see if I can find some

 

[husky345 vermont resolute]

Can you bust that wall out to the left?


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[begreen]

I just moved into the house....it had triple wall from that support box horizontal 36 inches than 90 and single wall

Doesn't sound like that was a proper installation. Maybe a picture will clarify.

 

[rwhite]

Looks like a stairwell to the right. Even if that wall is load bearing I'd consider tearing it out and building beam and ballister. You'd get clearances and a heck of a lot more heat upstairs.

 

[armanidog]

With triple wall you would need 2" clearance to the sheetrock. The ceiling box probably provides that clearance. If you came down into the alcove with triple wall you would need to add a tee and then go over to the stove and have another tee to drop down from (Uness you could do it with the 30 degree angle pieces).
That would be two 45 degree bends, would you need to bend anymore once you got through the ceiling? I believe good practice only allows two 90 degree angle pieces in the chimney run.

 

[rwhite]

Without a Tee the only way I can see to get away from the wall would be a triple wall 30, short run of single wall, then an adjustable single wall elbow. Not sure if that's a good way to go or not. If thats a standard 14" ceiling box you'll likely just make the 2" clearance. There are a few quick fix things that could be done but you need to verify your stud span and whether it's a load bearing wall:
Assuming a load bearing wall and 24" oc.
1. Just cut out the sheet rock between the studs on both sides of the wall and install a 24x24 register grate. This would require the use of double wall stove pipe as you probably still would not have clearances for single wall. An added expense but probably cheaper than triple wall tee's or elbows.

2. Non load wall. I'd leave 2 studs on each end and cut the wall out following the angle of the stairs down. Just lay a 2x4 along the stair rungs a draw your line down. You can come back later and add a top plate and ballisters. Ballisters would have to likely be steel or non combustible to get clearances. This or complete wall removal would be my choice as I imagine a lot of heat gets trapped in that alcove.

Oh, safety 1st...i would not leave an open wall without ballisters if kids are in the house.

 

[Highbeam]

Without a Tee the only way I can see to get away from the wall would be a triple wall 30, short run of single wall, then an adjustable single wall elbow. Not sure if that's a good way to go or not. If thats a standard 14" ceiling box you'll likely just make the 2" clearance. There are a few quick fix things that could be done but you need to verify your stud span and whether it's a load bearing wall:
Assuming a load bearing wall and 24" oc.
1. Just cut out the sheet rock between the studs on both sides of the wall and install a 24x24 register grate. This would require the use of double wall stove pipe as you probably still would not have clearances for single wall. An added expense but probably cheaper than triple wall tee's or elbows.

2. Non load wall. I'd leave 2 studs on each end and cut the wall out following the angle of the stairs down. Just lay a 2x4 along the stair rungs a draw your line down. You can come back later and add a top plate and ballisters. Ballisters would have to likely be steel or non combustible to get clearances. This or complete wall removal would be my choice as I imagine a lot of heat gets trapped in that alcove.

Oh, safety 1st...i would not leave an open wall without ballisters if kids are in the house.

Genius! That ceiling box probably hangs down far enough to get past the top plates so replacing the sheetrock with a grill or even 1/2" durock or anything noncombustible. My luck there would be a stud there within the 6" clearance so I would have to do some framing.

 

[kennyp2339]

hmmm, I'd open up the ceiling get to off set class a's and reposition the whole ceiling support box dead center, adjusting it from the ceiling support box up, yes its more work but I personally line to see the ceiling support box centered, and also gives give inspection of the class a while the ceiling is open.

 

[Vanskills]

With triple wall you would need 2" clearance to the sheetrock. The ceiling box probably provides that clearance. If you came down into the alcove with triple wall you would need to add a tee and then go over to the stove and have another tee to drop down from (Uness you could do it with the 30 degree angle pieces).
That would be two 45 degree bends, would you need to bend anymore once you got through the ceiling? I believe good practice only allows two 90 degree angle pieces in the chimney run.

THATS exactly what I'm going to do, just run triple wall tee u till my clearance is good than double wal black pipe....I'm not opening walls

And yes it a str8 shot all the way up from there, about 20 feet