Need help choosing mobile home approved wood stove in 2022!

[Huckpoten]

Hi, I need to figure out what wood stove to buy (and where). Last fall I bought a 1969 Lamplighter mobile home (NOT renovated at all), and due to unfortunate circumstances, I have to deal with it as it is. The windows are all coming out and do not seal, there is no insulation to speak of. My electric bill is $350 a month here on Whidbey Island, WA. I need to know what wood stove is mobile home approved, EPA certified, and will heat an un-insulated 400-500 sq ft without burning my tissue paper house down.
Also need to know what I need to do to make it safe as possible as far as wall/floor/ceiling protection, reducing risk of chimney sparks, supporting stove weight under floor… it’s just a lot. I’m disabled and on my own, and I kind of have one shot to get this right (financially). I need it to be as cheap as possible, but safety and efficiency trumps that.
Any help will be very welcome!

 

[begreen]

Any help you can get for sealing and fixing the windows will help save money, regardless of heat source. It will cost a bit to get a proper chimney system installed, don't scrimp there. If you don't have firewood already split and stacked, it has to be done right now in order to dry by say November. Get doug fir for shorter drying time. You will need a proper hearth pad, but no wall protection is necessary for most stoves as long as clearances are honored. A mobile home woodstove will need an outside air connection and it needs to be bolted down to meet code and insurance requirements. A small stove will heat the space, but it will need frequent refueling due to the small firebox. Are you thinking a new stove or used? For new, I would be looking at Century, Drolet, and True North or maybe a Vermont Castings Aspen C3. In used, a Lopi Answer, Pacific Energy Vista, Drolet Escape 1500 would work. A Jotul F602 would also work and they are more common used. That stove is quite radiant and will need larger clearances.

 

[Huckpoten]

Any help you can get for sealing and fixing the windows will help save money, regardless of heat source. It will cost a bit to get a proper chimney system installed, don't scrimp there. If you don't have firewood already split and stacked, it has to be done right now in order to dry by say November. Get doug fir for shorter drying time. You will need a proper hearth pad, but no wall protection is necessary for most stoves as long as clearances are honored. A mobile home woodstove will need an outside air connection and it needs to be bolted down to meet code and insurance requirements. A small stove will heat the space, but it will need frequent refueling due to the small firebox. Are you thinking a new stove or used? For new, I would be looking at Century, Drolet, and True North or maybe a Vermont Castings Aspen C3. In used, a Lopi Answer, Pacific Energy Vista, Drolet Escape 1500 would work. A Jotul F602 would also work and they are more common used. That stove is quite radiant and will need larger clearances.

Thank you for the detailed answer! I would love to replace the windows, and I had intended on doing so (and a bunch of other much needed repairs), but two things have made me pretty much give up on that at this point- 1) Inflation for materials is bad, but inflation on labor is BONKERS (had to unexpectedly spend $5000 the first week I moved in to replace an arcing fuse box/panel that cost $350 for materials.), and 2) nobody will do the work. I’ve been trying to find a single soul or company for the better part of a year who will agree to repair anything. No one comes back. It would be funny if it wasn’t, you know, my reality.

Anyway, I just visited a local fireplace store and they recommended a Regency F1150, said catalytic won’t work because I’d need 15 ft of chimney pipe for safe clearance.
The total quote for the stove, install, venting package, pad, and outside air hookup is about $6500.
Ouch.
Any thoughts on that Regency and the overall price? I’m just not sure I’ve got a lot of options, living on an island in the most expensive year ever. 😬

 

[begreen]

Get some heat shrink storm windows to cover the worst offenders. If properly installed, they work well.

How much were they asking for the stove? I can't see paying more than $2000 for it. If so, $4,500 for the installation seems pretty steep. Where is the installer coming from, off-island? Seriously, if $350 is the worst case bill, then just tightening up the place may chop off a hundred. You could go for several years to get a good return on $6500.
There are less expensive stove options that will do the same job. For comparison, the Century S250 lists at $849. If there is a competent chimney sweep on Whidbey, he may be able to do the installation.

 

[bholler]

Get some heat shrink storm windows to cover the worst offenders. If properly installed, they work well.

How much were they asking for the stove? I can't see paying more than $2000 for it. If so, $4,500 for the installation seems pretty steep. Where is the installer coming from, off-island?
There are less expensive stove options that will do the same job. For comparison, the Century S250 lists at $849. If there is a competent chimney sweep on Whidbey, he may be able to do the installation.

They are a little over $2000 last I checked and I don't think there was another price increase. But everyone's chimney pricing is through the roof with new increases every month or 2. But still the price does seem high.

 

[begreen]

They are a little over $2000 last I checked and I don't think there was another price increase. But everyone's chimney pricing is through the roof with new increases every month or 2. But still the price does seem high.

That's a high price for a 1.3 cu ft stove. Crazy times. In this price range I'd go for a small SBI stove (Century or Drolet) or consider alternatives.

Have you considered having a Costco mini-split installed or even a window unit heatpump? That will also save a lot including the cost and hassle of firewood. A 12,000 btu unit would cover most if not all of the heating needs.

 

[bholler]

Thank you for the detailed answer! I would love to replace the windows, and I had intended on doing so (and a bunch of other much needed repairs), but two things have made me pretty much give up on that at this point- 1) Inflation for materials is bad, but inflation on labor is BONKERS (had to unexpectedly spend $5000 the first week I moved in to replace an arcing fuse box/panel that cost $350 for materials.), and 2) nobody will do the work. I’ve been trying to find a single soul or company for the better part of a year who will agree to repair anything. No one comes back. It would be funny if it wasn’t, you know, my reality.

Anyway, I just visited a local fireplace store and they recommended a Regency F1150, said catalytic won’t work because I’d need 15 ft of chimney pipe for safe clearance.
The total quote for the stove, install, venting package, pad, and outside air hookup is about $6500.
Ouch.
Any thoughts on that Regency and the overall price? I’m just not sure I’ve got a lot of options, living on an island in the most expensive year ever. 😬

I believe all regencies need 15' minimum cat or not. Some other stoves only need 12'. But That isn't about clearance it's to create enough draft to work properly

 

[Huckpoten]

Get some heat shrink storm windows to cover the worst offenders. If properly installed, they work well.

How much were they asking for the stove? I can't see paying more than $2000 for it. If so, $4,500 for the installation seems pretty steep. Where is the installer coming from, off-island? Seriously, if $350 is the worst case bill, then just tightening up the place may chop off a hundred. You could go for several years to get a good return on $6500.
There are less expensive stove options that will do the same job. For comparison, the Century S250 lists at $849. If there is a competent chimney sweep on Whidbey, he may be able to do the installation.

The stove price is $2500, $2k for “venting package”, about $1k for install, $500-750 for 42x40 pad (Now THAT I feel like I should be able to Craigslist or something for hundreds less. I hope.), $150 for outside air kit install.

I’m about to have 9 trees taken down on my 7000sq ft postage stamp lot, 2 are 50 year old really big Doug firs, 1 very dead hemlock that fell right next to the house, the others are 30-40 yr old firs and hemlock. I don’t know how much that will translate to as far as cords of wood, but I hoped it would be substantial.
Not gonna do me any good this year though…

I actually duct taped heavy gauge plastic over every window (except one) and covered with heavy curtains last winter in hopes of getting the bill down. Never turned it up over 63, turned down or off when I left the house, sealed windows with thick plastic, put draft stoppers under all the doors, and closed the vent and shut off the back room (“Master” bedroom- I just stay in the living room/kitchen area). All that and my bill went from $350 to $300. Might as well be outside.
I also tried an electric oil heater, and an electric fan heater. Not helpful.

 

[Huckpoten]

That's a high price for a 1.3 cu ft stove. Crazy times. In this price range I'd go for a small SBI stove (Century or Drolet) or consider alternatives.

Have you considered having a Costco mini-split installed or even a window unit heatpump? That will also save a lot including the cost and hassle of firewood. A 12,000 btu unit would cover most if not all of the heating needs.

I had originally been thinking along the lines of a Lopi answer, but what makes the best sense and what I can get don’t usually go together.
The only reason I hadn’t considered a mini split is because every couple weeks during the winters here the power goes out for anywhere from a few hours to a couple days. Lots of wind storms and trees hitting power lines. After experiencing that last winter, and basically camping in my running car when the roads were closed from snow, I really hoped to have a heat source independent of the grid, that I can cook on too.

That and the whole, watching a fire is a natural antidepressant for winter blues, thing. My old house had a wood stove as the only effective way to heat my room. That was a 105 yr old barn loft, also with no insulation. But solid wood floors and walls at least!

 

[Huckpoten]

I believe all regencies need 15' minimum cat or not. Some other stoves only need 12'. But That isn't about clearance it's to create enough draft to work properly

Crap. Really?! Ohhhh, do you mean (and the stove store guy) 15 feet from the top of the stove, or 15 feet from the highest roof surface? I know nothing. I’ll Google it now.

 

[Huckpoten]

I believe all regencies need 15' minimum cat or not. Some other stoves only need 12'. But That isn't about clearance it's to create enough draft to work properly

Brain. Obviously not 15’ from roof, that would be absurd- This is what I’m dealing with. The x trees will be removed, stove would be located front left in the picture.

 

[begreen]

I had originally been thinking along the lines of a Lopi answer, but what makes the best sense and what I can get don’t usually go together.
The only reason I hadn’t considered a mini split is because every couple weeks during the winters here the power goes out for anywhere from a few hours to a couple days. Lots of wind storms and trees hitting power lines. After experiencing that last winter, and basically camping in my running car when the roads were closed from snow, I really hoped to have a heat source independent of the grid, that I can cook on too.

That and the whole, watching a fire is a natural antidepressant for winter blues, thing. My old house had a wood stove as the only effective way to heat my room. That was a 105 yr old barn loft, also with no insulation. But solid wood floors and walls at least!

Take a look at the Century S250. It is affordable and a N/S loader. It's not fancy, but a decent little Canadian stove that is mobile approved and won't break the bank. It will work on a 12' flue system and will provide a bit longer burntime. In the Drolet line this is the Spark II.

Century S250 Wood Stove at Obadiah's Woodstoves

Century S250 Wood Stove heats up to 1,200 square feet!

www.discountstoves.net

 

[begreen]

Brain. Obviously not 15’ from roof, that would be absurd- This is what I’m dealing with. The x trees will be removed, stove would be located front left in the picture.

The flue height is typically from the stove top. Regency, Pacific Energy, and SBI (Drolet, Century, Osburn) stoves are generally easy breathing and will work on 12' flue system.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I think I’d get the trees down, cut, split, and stacked now. That way they’ll be dry for your stove.

I think I’d keep planning and reading up on stoves. The more informed your decision is, the better. Find a stove that looks interesting and then read up on it here. When you decide on the stove, your wood will be ready.

Your weather looks like it generally stays 30s to 40s during the winter. Have you looked into propane? You can get propane heaters fairly cheaply and it’ll be a good source of heat. It shouldn’t take too much heat to keep the temperature up in that size space.

 

[EbS-P]

Drolet’s need 12’ I think

The deco Nano is $1000.

High Efficiency Wood Stove | Escape 1200

The Escape 1200 wood stove is EPA certified at 1.8 g/h - 45,000 BTU/h to heat up to 1200 ft² - Logs of 17'' - On pedestal - Made in Canada.

www.drolet.ca

 

[begreen]

Drolet’s need 12’ I think

The deco Nano is $1000.

High Efficiency Wood Stove | Escape 1200

The Escape 1200 wood stove is EPA certified at 1.8 g/h - 45,000 BTU/h to heat up to 1200 ft² - Logs of 17'' - On pedestal - Made in Canada.

www.drolet.ca

Yes, that looks like the S250 firebox, but on a pedestal base.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

A 1.5 cubic foot firebox will cook in that size space/that climate. Can you run it low enough?

 

[begreen]

Yes, just run it with a partial fire. Though remember this is a poorly insulated, leaky window space where it gets pretty windy. Last winter we had an extended stretch in the low 20s and some teens. It will work ok. Century and Drolet rate it for a 250-1200 sq ft space.

 

[marty319]

I installed double cell cellular shades and pull them down at night and they really block the cold from the windows.not uncommon to have well below zero temps here for weeks on end.good luck on your project.

 

[Huckpoten]

Take a look at the Century S250. It is affordable and a N/S loader. It's not fancy, but a decent little Canadian stove that is mobile approved and won't break the bank. It will work on a 12' flue system and will provide a bit longer burntime. In the Drolet line this is the Spark II.

Century S250 Wood Stove at Obadiah's Woodstoves

Century S250 Wood Stove heats up to 1,200 square feet!

www.discountstoves.net

Thanks! I love the smaller size, and lighter weight is never a bad thing in a mobile home with paper floors. I’ll add it to the possibles list.

 

[Huckpoten]

A 1.5 cubic foot firebox will cook in that size space/that climate. Can you run it low enough?

Doubtful. I tend to go autopilot and make a thick coal bed so I can chuck a fat log on and sleep more than 5 hours. The thing that is missing from everyone’s equation here is that I’m not heating 500sq ft of insulated space. I’m always going to have the equivalent of a window open, whether I want to or not. (And I’m severely claustrophobic, so I actually do have a window open almost all year round. Yes, I am a terrible excuse for an adult.)

So, the larger 600-1200sq ft heating stove might be ok. Maybe. I used a 2000sq ft heating stove in western NC for 7 winters. To heat a 600sq ft barnhouse loft, and with a window open, that was always comfortable. Ish.

If I have to run a stove “low”, I’m not sure what that even translates to- but I will certainly look it up on YouTube.

 

[Huckpoten]

I installed double cell cellular shades and pull them down at night and they really block the cold from the windows.not uncommon to have well below zero temps here for weeks on end.good luck on your project.

Ooh. I will certainly look those up, thanks!

 

[Huckpoten]

I think I’d get the trees down, cut, split, and stacked now. That way they’ll be dry for your stove.

I think I’d keep planning and reading up on stoves. The more informed your decision is, the better. Find a stove that looks interesting and then read up on it here. When you decide on the stove, your wood will be ready.

Your weather looks like it generally stays 30s to 40s during the winter. Have you looked into propane? You can get propane heaters fairly cheaply and it’ll be a good source of heat. It shouldn’t take too much heat to keep the temperature up in that size space.

The weather here USED to be regularly in the 30s and 40s, but apparently in the past decade it’s started to get unpredictably wonky, according to neighbors. And my first winter here. I have a small propane heater and an emergency stash of a dozen little propane tanks, but those things last about 2 hrs each. With my disability income, in the past it’s been easier for me to use wood heat by getting green wood cheap and drying it well in advance. Being a newbie here puts me at a disadvantage for that this year, but I can always scrounge wood more easily than dollars. And I don’t have to drive to switch out propane tanks. Bigger propane heaters use electricity, don’t they? I had a large kerosene heater before, that was no help when power went out, and very expensive.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I figured that propane heaters can run without electricity, especially if there's a pilot light, but haven't used a wall mount for years. My propane stove can easily be lit without electricity and its electric ignition. I use a little sunflower tank top heater to help heat a cabin when I walk into it cold. I run it off a 20lb tank.

The open window throws off all calculations, lol, but I think 16,000 btu should carry you.

Regardless, get that wood up as soon as possible. Itll take a bit of time to dry.

 

[begreen]

There are propane heaters that do not need any electricity to run, or have a battery backup system for pilotless ignition. The cost of operation would be more expensive than electric if used for full time heating, but much less if used as a backup during outages for a mini-split as the primary heating system.

If wood heating is intended for this coming winter then I must emphasize the need to get the wood split and stacked now and to get doug fir for the quickest drying. The heat output of any stove is much less when the wood is not well seasoned. Modern EPA stoves are particular about dry fuel. Poorly seasoned wood could end up with the stove never reaching secondary combustion, eating a lot more wood to stay warm, and in turn, lead to a very dirty flue system.