need help. please

[Rhoads]

My neighbors gave me a fisher stove about 3 years ago. It is a double door insert, but I use it as a stand alone down in the basement. They told me it is a "Grandpa bear". I had to have a reducer made for the stove to get me down to a 6" pipe. The reducer I had made failed and filled home with smoke "awesome". I am now looking again for a new reducer. The inside diameter of the whole in the top of the stove is 7 1/4". Does anyone know where I can get the factory peice for the stove or where I can purchase a very well made reducer that will work for me? I have spent many hours on line and on the phone and have come up empty till I found this forum.

 

[mtn man]

Coaly will have all your answers.

 

[jwalter04]

I welded a ring on the top around the existing hole to accept a standard 8" to 6" reducer.

. (broken image removed)

 

[Rhoads]

Thanks for the replys. Good idea about welding the ring. Never even thought of that. Thanks again.

 

[coaly]

Can't tell you which insert you have without dimensions and pictures. There is no "factory" piece since all Inserts were designed to be installed into a fireplace using the existing chimney flue.
The part to directly connect to flue with connector pipe is called a "boot". Searching "insert boot" will find the part you need.
The full size Insert does use Grandma doors and screen. No Insert uses any Grandpa parts. They are a free standing stove with 4 legs.

Searching this Forum at top right with search feature will give you plenty of results as well. This type allows use of factory damper and rod if you are using it.

 

[coaly]

Coaly will have all your answers.

Don't be too sure.

 

[Rhoads]

 

[Rhoads]

Here are some pics. The fire box has 6 bricks on each side and 4 across the back. It measures 27" deep x 18"wide x 16" high. The outside measures 32" from back to front edge of the doors. 20" high and 24 and a half across the top. Any information on year built the model etc etc plus more ideas on the reducer issues will be greatly appreciated . Thanks again

 

[coaly]

Fisher Fireplace Insert
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/fishinsertmanual.pdf

The damper and rod is not on the appliance. The holes on the sides are for the side mount bracket for damper rod.
They started making the Insert late 1979 and had a chain controlled damper. Soon changed to a lever as shown in manual.



Complete with hearth faceplate, deflector and lever.

They were available in black, nickel plate, brass plate and later glass and brass and glass. You have the bare bones black.

You should have a pipe damper in the first section of connector pipe if you don't have the factory damper.

Don't know what you had made, but it needs to be 24 ga. minimum and should last much longer than that. You don't want a leak there since it will allow air to leak in and cool the chimney. Smoke will not leak out with a correctly drafting chimney. (with damper open)

If you make a baffle plate for inside, the intense heat won't destroy the thin walled homemade "collar".
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/

 

[coaly]

Do you have a hand pipe crimper? I know you can over-crimp down to 7 1/2 - never tried or needed smaller. If you can hand crimp 8 inch pipe small enough, I'd put a 8 inch damper in that first pipe and reduce with a regular reducer above it. (Ace Hardware locally has them here on the shelf) I assume you're aware reducing is technically against code, but the Insert will physically work fine reduced.

 

[Rhoads]

Thanks again for all the advice, tips and information. Time to apply some of the ideas. I hope to get the ol stove back up and running soon because I miss having a warm sometimes too hot basement.