My girlfriend owns a vintage The Force wood burning stove. It was unusable at one point. I recently hooked up the piping for the chimney cleaned out years of ash. The dampner front to rear airsystem was plugged with ash.....i cleaned it out . Noticed the dampner has a bi metal spring system .....is there an adjustment for that setup and how is it used efficiently. Any info is appreciated
Need help with Force stove
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Jan Pijpelink
Minister of Fire
Thanks for thethread.....i saw that one ....when i googled ur forum....im hoping to get or somehow obtain a maintenance manual for the adjustments on the bimetal spring. It works like an old chevy choke bimetallic spring but im not sure if it needs to be recalibrated to the door opening spring pressure. If someone could dig that up it would be greatly appreciated im at a standstill on info for that stove. But it seems like a beast of a wood stove
swestall
Minister of Fire
I had a Force stove in my shop for many years. The spring damper control proved to be not so good right at the beginning. The stove ran really well, burned hot and heated the entire shop without problems.(uninsulated 36X26 open rafters) It would burn most wood even if it was a little green. It used a lot of wood, so you had to control your heat by how much you burned in addition to the little control the damper provided. I eventually removed the spring, etc. and welded a small rod to the damper plate; and then controlled it manually like most older stoves. When I got the fire going, I shut the damper plate down so about 1/4 inch was open and it would burn pretty efficiently. I replaced it with a "dream stove; Cannon Army heater #18 and sold the Force to a neighbor who is still using it. You have to keep the channel from the damper up front to the rear of the stove clear of ash. I'd do this by vacuuming it out once a month or so. Also, mine was lined with firebrick on the bottom on either side of the draft channel and then one course along the sides. Great Stove,
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