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Mcbrecycle

New Member
Oct 10, 2021
12
Flagstaff, AZ
Greetings! Four years ago I had installed a brand new Pacific energy Firebox. it seems to burn through wood extremely fast with the flu giving no burn speed regulation. There is constantly a draft coming through the blower vents. When a fire box professional (same installation company, roofdancers you suck!) came to inspect, The guy said the chimney isn't insulated, Pacific energy is a crap product, and the braided rope around the door seal isn't installed properly (manufacturer error). He basically admitted his boss did a really shity installation job.
I've opened up the back of the chimney, and wondering where I stood insulation. The box says three quarters of an inch clearance, and I can have that however there's no insulation in the entire chimney, help? Please ! any advice is much appreciated!

[Hearth.com] Need more efficiency! [Hearth.com] Need more efficiency! [Hearth.com] Need more efficiency!
 
A poor workman always blames the product, after blaming his tools.

Sorry you have having issues. It's a good fireplace, so let's get it working right! The first thing is to fix the door gasket. I have seen some other PE stoves where they went shy with the gasket adhesive. If this is the case, it can leak air. It's a pretty easy job to reglue it. Use red or black RTV adhesive. The chimney pipe looks like it might be Class A, but it is hard to tell. Is there a label on it that you can post a picture of?
 
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Check the other parameters mentioned in the manual, like chimney length.


What are you burning for wood? Can you tell us the burning procedure you use?
 
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it seems to burn through wood extremely fast with the flu giving no burn speed regulation
Should have a damper to control burn rate on the front center of the fireplace. What model is this? Maybe the air control is missing?
 
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THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND REPLIES!!!!!!!
I'm so appreciative to hear from people that know what they're doing.
I've called all the fireplace stores, all the hardware stores, all the building material stores, and even Banker insulation here in Flagstaff and no one seems to know their left hand from their right, to put it nicely. It's so frustrating.
Yes, the guy that installed this is a total Yahoo. He took off the siding of the house in order to get the appliance in (the new built-in fireplace). It is not an insert. It is a built-in fireplace. He sawed up everything and now I'm left with that, hence the sister joints. I realize now he's an idiot and just wanted my money.
There is a damper control on the inside, but moving it does not change the airflow because the braided rope does not meet the Firebox properly to form a tight seal. (As told to be by a technician)
My primary concern right now, as I have the back of my house opened and it's supposed to snow tomorrow, is putting rock wool on the inside of the chimney keeping with the clearances listed on the firebox. The footprint of this chimney is roughly 2'x6'. I plan to insulate both short walls (2'wide), the removed wall (6'wide by ~8'tall) and create a "ceiling" just with rock wool 36" above the top of the firebox. The rock wool I got is rated "fire resistant to 2000F". I want to do this because the 2(80cfm) blowers (second pic: last metal thing at the bottom above the cement board to the right of the duct) just pull air from this uninsulated cavity and blow it into the house. It may as well not even have the back on it as it's just blowing outside air!
I'm so frustrated with the shoddy craftsmanship (or lac thereof) from this idiot. This is exactly why I end up doing everything myself. This area however, is greatly outside my comfort zone so any and all help is appreciated.

Not sure on the model, he didn't leave me with any paperwork and my invoice just says "PE box".
I will go look for the label on the chimney pipe. I know there is another pipe inside there that's much smaller (my chimney brush is 6").

again, THANK YOU SO MUCH!
 
Check the other parameters mentioned in the manual, like chimney length.


What are you burning for wood? Can you tell us the burning procedure you use?
Thanks for your reply.
I don't have a manual. I never received one.
I burn anything! Mostly pine, or deciduous, or sometimes cedar, oak, juniper. Whatever I can get my hands on. As a 35year fireplace vet, I know what wood burns how, it's not the wood, trust me. Even on a nice big piece of oak the flames are ripping fast.
Burning procedure.... not sure what that means...
 
Should have a damper to control burn rate on the front center of the fireplace. What model is this? Maybe the air control is missing?
Yes, there is a damper but moving it around does nothing to slow the burn. The technician that came out said it's because the braided rope doesn't meet the box to form a seal.
Not sure the model, I think FP-30 Arch. He said it was a good box originally. After I complained twice the first winter, and every year after that it burns too quickly, he said I need to clean my chimney. Which I do twice a season.
 
Yes, there is a damper but moving it around does nothing to slow the burn. The technician that came out said it's because the braided rope doesn't meet the box to form a seal.
Not sure the model, I think FP-30 Arch. He said it was a good box originally. After I complained twice the first winter, and every year after that it burns too quickly, he said I need to clean my chimney. Which I do twice a season.
Did he replace the gasket or adjust the door so it seals properly?
 
You can pay admiration to the moronic owner of Roofdancers here in Flagstaff, AZ
There is nothing wrong with sistering framing like that. Cutting the back out and sistering studs back in is pretty standard practice to replace zero clearance units like this.
 
No he didn't. He said there were so many problems he would have to come back out. He didn't charge me for that visit ,which I appreciate.
Any advice on this is much appreciated! (And needed)
My advice is make them fix their screwups. I really don't know that particular unit so I can't be of much help with it.
 
My advice is make them fix their screwups. I really don't know that particular unit so I can't be of much help with it.
That's what I want to do! I think it's WRONG, not to mention UNFAIR he left me with this junk job. I can honestly say I paid CASH in full, brought him hot cocoa all the days, super considerate. I feel "had".
Any suggestions on how to "make" them do this?
 
That's what I want to do! I think it's WRONG, not to mention UNFAIR he left me with this junk job. I can honestly say I paid CASH in full, brought him hot cocoa all the days, super considerate. I feel "had".
Any suggestions on how to "make" them do this?
Be a pain call every day a couple times a day if need be. If all else fails call a lawyer
 
Thanks for your reply.
I don't have a manual. I never received one.
I burn anything! Mostly pine, or deciduous, or sometimes cedar, oak, juniper. Whatever I can get my hands on. As a 35year fireplace vet, I know what wood burns how, it's not the wood, trust me. Even on a nice big piece of oak the flames are ripping fast.
Burning procedure.... not sure what that means...
Was this fireplace used or was it new? Did it come from a dealer? If so the manual should have been inside the unit. The manual is available online on the PE website.

Yes, you can insulate with rockwool batts, but they will need nylon string or wire zig-zagged across the interior faces to stop them from falling out toward the stove.
 
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That's what I want to do! I think it's WRONG, not to mention UNFAIR he left me with this junk job. I can honestly say I paid CASH in full, brought him hot cocoa all the days, super considerate. I feel "had".
Any suggestions on how to "make" them do this?

Was the work done by a licensed, bonded, and insured contractor? If so, and you believe the work wasn't done to code, you may be able to make an insurance claim.
 
Judging by the black soot on the left side of thee door I wood say there is a good chance the gaskets are leaking especially if the wood is dry enough. Also is that air cooled chimney?
 
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Judging by the black soot on the left side of thee door I wood say there is a good chance the gaskets are leaking especially if the wood is dry enough. Also is that air cooled chimney?
It definitely looks like air cooled
 
Judging by the black soot on the left side of thee door I wood say there is a good chance the gaskets are leaking especially if the wood is dry enough. Also is that air cooled chimney?
Yes: an employee of the installation co said the braided rope on the door "was installed improperly. that's a manufacturers defect."
I will get to that at some point. I've just become accustom to burning a shitton of wood