Hello all, I'm in the market for a wood stove for my new home. It is 1200sf & the stove will be centrally located in a 550sf room. I've spent hours reading customer reviews & I have a couple of options in mind like the HS Craftsbury or the Jotul 3cb. I know opinions vary but I need your opinion for a small to medium wood stove, what's your favorite & why? Thank's in advance for your help.
Need your opinion...
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I'm happy with my Woodstock Fireview, very long burn times and not much attention required. Any stove (especially the Woodstock) will need dry wood; wood that you have split and stacked in your yard for a year or more.
There is a stove ratings section; go to the main page of the site its in one of the drop down menus. There are hundreds of reviews there, worth digging a little.
There is a stove ratings section; go to the main page of the site its in one of the drop down menus. There are hundreds of reviews there, worth digging a little.
Welcome. The Hearthstone and Jotul brands are solid, quality, and reliable. Things that I would keep in mind while searching:
1.) Do I want 24/7 whole house heating, or will burn nights and weekends, etc.?
2.) Do I want a stove with a firebox long enough to hold an "overnight burn"?
3.) Do I want a more radiant stove or a more covective stove?
4.) When it comes time to sweep the flue, how easy is the baffle to remove if I don't have a cleanout T?
5.) Do I want soapstone, steel, or cast iron?
6.) Will my chimney be a straight shot up from stove top to roof?
You'll find many loyal Hearthstone and Jotul users here, and either brand will have a stove capable of heating 1,200 sq. ft. Tell us a little more about what you require out of the stove, and I'm sure you'll reach a decision are you happy with soon.
1.) Do I want 24/7 whole house heating, or will burn nights and weekends, etc.?
2.) Do I want a stove with a firebox long enough to hold an "overnight burn"?
3.) Do I want a more radiant stove or a more covective stove?
4.) When it comes time to sweep the flue, how easy is the baffle to remove if I don't have a cleanout T?
5.) Do I want soapstone, steel, or cast iron?
6.) Will my chimney be a straight shot up from stove top to roof?
You'll find many loyal Hearthstone and Jotul users here, and either brand will have a stove capable of heating 1,200 sq. ft. Tell us a little more about what you require out of the stove, and I'm sure you'll reach a decision are you happy with soon.
Welcome to the forum crimson63.
Another vote for the Woodstock Fireview here. Especially in your climate, the Fireview should do an excellent job and it is one of the top stoves for burning clean. For example, when we installed our Fireview we also installed a new SS chimney. We cleaned that chimney only after 2 years burning and then we would not have had to do it because it was not very dirty. This after 2 winters burning 24/7 as it is our only source of heat. In addition, we burn only half the amount of wood we used to and stay a whole lot warmer.
I think what Rick was trying to convey to you is that if you are considering buying a stove, then immediately you should start thinking about the fuel.
Wood heat is not like heating with oil or gas. With those you can just get on the phone and order the fuel and it is ready to go. NOT SO FOR WOOD
! Wood needs time to season in order to burn properly and so that you don't have major problems with smoke and creosote.
WARNING: Do not depend on any wood seller to provide you with seasoned wood.....no matter what they tell you. If you buy wood it simply will not be ready to burn....no matter what they tell you. Oh, it might burn, but you will have some big problems and then you also will start wondering about your stove. That darned thing won't put out heat and gets all smokey and it is hard to get the fire going, etc., etc.
Plain and simple. What Rich is trying to say is that for your best interest, if you plan on burning wood next fall and winter, get your wood on hand NOW! ASAP. It might also be best to stay away from one of the very best woods too and that is oak. The reason for advising against oak your first year is that most oaks need 3 years after being cut to length, split and stacked out in the wind before it is ready to burn. Other woods such as ash you could cut now and burn it next fall. So, some wood needs very little time and others need lots of time to properly season.
Do yourself a big, big favor and consider the fuel before you buy your stove. You will be much, much happier and avoid a lot of problems that new wood burners have.
Good luck in your quest.
Another vote for the Woodstock Fireview here. Especially in your climate, the Fireview should do an excellent job and it is one of the top stoves for burning clean. For example, when we installed our Fireview we also installed a new SS chimney. We cleaned that chimney only after 2 years burning and then we would not have had to do it because it was not very dirty. This after 2 winters burning 24/7 as it is our only source of heat. In addition, we burn only half the amount of wood we used to and stay a whole lot warmer.
I think what Rick was trying to convey to you is that if you are considering buying a stove, then immediately you should start thinking about the fuel.
Wood heat is not like heating with oil or gas. With those you can just get on the phone and order the fuel and it is ready to go. NOT SO FOR WOOD
! Wood needs time to season in order to burn properly and so that you don't have major problems with smoke and creosote.WARNING: Do not depend on any wood seller to provide you with seasoned wood.....no matter what they tell you. If you buy wood it simply will not be ready to burn....no matter what they tell you. Oh, it might burn, but you will have some big problems and then you also will start wondering about your stove. That darned thing won't put out heat and gets all smokey and it is hard to get the fire going, etc., etc.
Plain and simple. What Rich is trying to say is that for your best interest, if you plan on burning wood next fall and winter, get your wood on hand NOW
! ASAP. It might also be best to stay away from one of the very best woods too and that is oak. The reason for advising against oak your first year is that most oaks need 3 years after being cut to length, split and stacked out in the wind before it is ready to burn. Other woods such as ash you could cut now and burn it next fall. So, some wood needs very little time and others need lots of time to properly season. Do yourself a big, big favor and consider the fuel before you buy your stove. You will be much, much happier and avoid a lot of problems that new wood burners have.
Good luck in your quest.
Good questions Pagey, I've burned wood for years with a fireplace insert but around 7 years ago I bought a cheap "Acorn" model plate stove from TS & it is a step up from the insert in my old house. I'll have an electric heat pump & the wood stove will supplement it in my new home. My wife is disabled to work but she is able to keep a fire going most of the time so it will be used alot. I kid her when I say she lights a fire in October & lets it die down in April. I atleast need a good coal bed left from overnight, maybe 5-7 hours unattended. I'm not sure what the difference is between radiant & conductive but I'll need it to sit fairly close to a wall to conserve space in the room so heat sheilds are needed. My wife isn't crazy about the soapstone looks, I'm thinking cast or cast with internal soapstone to heat longer. To cut costs in building the house, I'm not building a masonry chimney. The contractor has agreed to supply & install the pipe kit from the ceiling through the roof, I'll need to install the heater & pipe it to the ceiling so it will be a straight shot 6" flue about 18" tall from the stove.
BS, I'll have to change my habits concerning wood cutting. For 30+ years, I have cut, split & stacked my woodpile in late summer to burn the same winter. I also own 40 acres of mixed hardwoods, all types of oak, hickory, sweet gum, popular, some beech & of course pines. I have never bought one stick of wood & I don't plan on starting now so I'll have to plan ahead & use what grows on my place. I's hard to believe that oak cut, split & stacked under shelter now won't burn next fall but I've never owned one of these new stoves so I'll take your word for it.
For overnight burns, then, I would recommend a stove with at least a 2.0 cubic foot fire box. Many on the market will meet this requirement. Radiant heat vs. convective heat: radiant heat is more like your old stoves with no heat shields. They heat everything around them by radiating heat. A convective stove usually is "jacketed" with heat shields on the back and sides. They too radiate heat from the top plates, but they work more by pulling in colder air at the floor level, passing it through the heat shields/jackets, and push it back into the room as warm air. My Lopi Endeavor, for example, is more convective than radiant. As such, with approved double wall stove pipe, the back of the stove can sit just 4.25" from a combustible surface. Today's convection type stoves often benefit from the addition of an electric blower to push the air further out from the stove into more rooms. The type you pick may be determined by your preferences or your clearances.
Dennis (Backwoods Savage) is right on about fuel. Today's stoves, to perform properly, need wood that has been cut/split/stacked for around a year (on average). Softwoods of course can season in 6 months, and don't worry about the "pine causes chimney fires" wives' tales. I burned over a cord of 6 month seasoned pine this year, and it was some of the cleanest burning fuel I've passed through the stove. My oak and hickory have been seasoning just over a year now, and I still run into pieces that hiss or sizzle a little on the coal bed. So, no matter what stove you choose, start NOW on your fuel - you won't regret it.
Also bear in mind there are two main technologies used by today's stoves to "reburn" the gases released by burning wood: catalytic and non-catalytic. Both are tried, proven technologies. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. If you go with a non-cat, I would recommend steering away from the "downdraft" type stoves. They seem much fussier and more difficult to master. The "burn tube" type non-cat stoves that dominate the market seem far easier to operate and master.
Dennis (Backwoods Savage) is right on about fuel. Today's stoves, to perform properly, need wood that has been cut/split/stacked for around a year (on average). Softwoods of course can season in 6 months, and don't worry about the "pine causes chimney fires" wives' tales. I burned over a cord of 6 month seasoned pine this year, and it was some of the cleanest burning fuel I've passed through the stove. My oak and hickory have been seasoning just over a year now, and I still run into pieces that hiss or sizzle a little on the coal bed. So, no matter what stove you choose, start NOW on your fuel - you won't regret it.
Also bear in mind there are two main technologies used by today's stoves to "reburn" the gases released by burning wood: catalytic and non-catalytic. Both are tried, proven technologies. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. If you go with a non-cat, I would recommend steering away from the "downdraft" type stoves. They seem much fussier and more difficult to master. The "burn tube" type non-cat stoves that dominate the market seem far easier to operate and master.
Gee, some of these threads are getting as bad as chainsaw threads--the OP asks for advice on two stoves and immediately someone chimes in with a third!
In any case, Pagey is right on with his Q's, especially:
1.) Do I want 24/7 heating, supplemental, or decoration? How long do I want the stove to be able to run without being reloaded?
5.) Do I want soapstone, steel, or cast iron? There are pros and cons to each that most will *agree* on.
*.) What are the installation parameters & requirements? Hearth-mount, insert, etc.
*.) Who will install it, which has the better/more reliable dealer, and how does cost figure in.
Also, as once again Pagey said, you'll find people on both sides--HS and Jotul--and they're both reliable and well-built products. You've got a fairly simple application (seemingly), so most good stoves would work for you.
Good luck,
S
In any case, Pagey is right on with his Q's, especially:
1.) Do I want 24/7 heating, supplemental, or decoration? How long do I want the stove to be able to run without being reloaded?
5.) Do I want soapstone, steel, or cast iron? There are pros and cons to each that most will *agree* on.
*.) What are the installation parameters & requirements? Hearth-mount, insert, etc.
*.) Who will install it, which has the better/more reliable dealer, and how does cost figure in.
Also, as once again Pagey said, you'll find people on both sides--HS and Jotul--and they're both reliable and well-built products. You've got a fairly simple application (seemingly), so most good stoves would work for you.
Good luck,
S
crimson63 said:
Crimson, it is good to hear you are not a novice at the wood cutting. This will help you a lot!
As you can tell by my signature line, we are not novices as we've burned wood for a few years now. I grew up with the old stoves where you could get away with cutting wood in the fall and burning it that winter. The newer stoves just will not take to that style without giving you big problems. The payoff is that they burn much less for the heat that they give. As stated, we burn only half the amount of wood we used to with this new stove. There was a learning curve with it but it was very short.
This is our first stove with a catalyst and because I had heard some horror stories and bad things about stoves with cats, I said we would not buy one with a cat. Wrong! We really wanted to look at the Woodstock stoves because they are so well made, look beautiful and have such a good reputation. We had wanted one years ago but put it off because of the cost. Now I wish we had not put it off as it has really turned out to be even more than we expected. Like I stated, we had to learn a few things but it was quick to learn and everything with the stove is easy to do.
Good luck no matter which stove you buy. Get the wood cut asap and you will do fine.
The Woodstock stoves are going to be over my budget for a stove which is around $1500, I guess I should have mentioned that. I want to get as much for my $ including durability, easy to use, good heat output, little maintanence & looks good overall. I don't want much do I? My local dealer dosen't carry Woodstock but carrys many others. A couple of stoves & prices I jotted down yesterday was the HS Craftsbury for $1350, VC Intrepid for $1350 & he really tried to sell me on a Dutchwest small $1299 but I've read so many bad reviews on this stove I think I'll pass on it. This is really confuseing but every decision when building a house is....
Fear not. There are many good stoves on the market. btw, you can buy a Woodstock stove only direct as they do not sell through dealers. There is a good reason for that but we won't get into that now.
Also don't forget the tax credit to be gained now.
Also don't forget the tax credit to be gained now.
I really liked my DW cat stove alot . I had the EX Large.
It burned a long time on low and the flue stayed very clean . A few cups of black crumbs at the end of the season .
I have a equinox now and it keeps the house warmer but you could be cold sitting 5 feet away .
I like the large DW cat stove for your space The blower kit works real good with the stove . I think the DW is a real nice stove for the buck.
I like the way the hearthstone looks but i think my DW was much more efficient by far.
I replaced the cat a few times in 15 years but the EQ has a soft baffle that will need to be replaced .
I bought a EQ because I'm planing a large addition on the house and was hoping the EQ would heat the house.
I am thinking i will need a second stove in the new addition I mite get a DW . John
It burned a long time on low and the flue stayed very clean . A few cups of black crumbs at the end of the season .
I have a equinox now and it keeps the house warmer but you could be cold sitting 5 feet away .
I like the large DW cat stove for your space The blower kit works real good with the stove . I think the DW is a real nice stove for the buck.
I like the way the hearthstone looks but i think my DW was much more efficient by far.
I replaced the cat a few times in 15 years but the EQ has a soft baffle that will need to be replaced .
I bought a EQ because I'm planing a large addition on the house and was hoping the EQ would heat the house.
I am thinking i will need a second stove in the new addition I mite get a DW . John
For a long burn time in a medium, simple stove that fits a tight budget, I'd be looking at a PE Super 27.
I couldn't agree with Backwoods Savage more. It took me about 5 years to start figuring out a good system. If I had to do it over again with my knowledge now I would have done things a little different. A lot different. My first adventure was such a mistake that I had to rip the whole thing out and start over. Don't worry your not near as naive as I was then. Too bad Hearth.com wasn't around back then. After I got going with a good system my main concern was getting firewood. At first I though, "get what I need for a year and then a little more." Wow, was I realized how good wood heat felt we just burned 24/7. Now I needed more wood. I started coming across a lot of Oak. I would let it season for a year and thought it would be good. Nope. It was hard to burn. Once it got going it left tons of coals. I would be emptying ashes/coals nearly everyday. I remember wondering what's wrong with this stuff. After finding this site and a lot of trial and error, I'm much more educated now. Much of what I do revolves around how much wood I can store and how long can it sit there. The quality of your firewood will really determine what you get out of your stove. If I had the room for more wood-longer seasoning, I would be looking at Cat stoves. If you like slow release heat, look at Soap-stones. If your wood will be 2 years or under I would look at the EPA stoves. There are so many good ones it's almost impossible to say what's the best. I've been there so, good luck. Once you decide you'll adjust your wood management to best fit your burner anyway.
crimson63 said:
With all do respect as a old woodburner (33 years of burning) I can not see how you could cut green wood in late summer and burn it that winter with out some problems no matter what stove you have, some dead trees cut and stacked will dry in that amount of time (2 or 3 months) maybe quicker in some cases, I have seen wood dry enough to burn after you cut it but it has been dead for a long time.
Too many varibles for all of these cut and dried answers on how long it takes before you can burn the wood effectively.
Was the tree dead
How long was it dead
Kind of wood
Split (how big)
Stacked well
How long is your drying season
I am sure I forgot some so please feel free to add to list.
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