New Englander Add-On Furnace

[mtbrbike]

Hello,

I have a used add-on furnace and was wondering the following:

1. If my plenum has a rubber gasket (see pic) will that be affected?
2. What time should these stoves run at? My temp gauge is on the pipe but it is a triple wall chimney pipe.
3. Do you really need the 90 degree pipe in the plenum?
4. What are proper settings on top and bottom vents?


Thanks

 

[mustash29]

I'm just using mine like a wood stove, with the heat dumped locally. The big blower is overkill for me so I use one or two 4" muffin fans from old PC's that sit about an inch away from the cold air inlet.

I have a probe thermometer in my pipe about a foot from the furnace. At 500 it is really cranking out the heat, but will still radiate nicely even as low as 225.

Set your air vents however, it takes time to learn what works well. So many variables. Wood type, split size, dryness, draft, etc, etc. I generally like to see the flame tips stay in the stove. If they are wrapping around the smoke baffle things are getting a little hot, too much draft, too much air, etc.

The bottom (underfire) knob will really kick start a semi-dead coal bed, but too much underfire will burn your coals out when you want a long burn.

I usually run zero to 1/2 turn open on the underfire and about 1/4 to 1/3 on the top slider.

I made a few modification to mine before lighting the first fire. The steel plate now has 1/8" slots in the middle 4 and 1/4" slots for the 2 in front & the 2 in back. Very effective ash management, stuff falls a little bit on it's own, falls a little better when the underfire knob is open, and allows for the ash to sift right through evertime you poke or stoke the fire. And best of all.....zero wear, tear or damage to the fire bricks in the floor, poker & ash rake never get hung up, etc.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-28-3500-furnace-install-mods.102100/

 

[mtbrbike]

I'm just using mine like a wood stove, with the heat dumped locally. The big blower is overkill for me so I use one or two 4" muffin fans from old PC's that sit about an inch away from the cold air inlet.

I have a probe thermometer in my pipe about a foot from the furnace. At 500 it is really cranking out the heat, but will still radiate nicely even as low as 225.

Set your air vents however, it takes time to learn what works well. So many variables. Wood type, split size, dryness, draft, etc, etc. I generally like to see the flame tips stay in the stove. If they are wrapping around the smoke baffle things are getting a little hot, too much draft, too much air, etc.

The bottom (underfire) knob will really kick start a semi-dead coal bed, but too much underfire will burn your coals out when you want a long burn.

I usually run zero to 1/2 turn open on the underfire and about 1/4 to 1/3 on the top slider.

I made a few modification to mine before lighting the first fire. The steel plate now has 1/8" slots in the middle 4 and 1/4" slots for the 2 in front & the 2 in back. Very effective ash management, stuff falls a little bit on it's own, falls a little better when the underfire knob is open, and allows for the ash to sift right through evertime you poke or stoke the fire. And best of all.....zero wear, tear or damage to the fire bricks in the floor, poker & ash rake never get hung up, etc.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-28-3500-furnace-install-mods.102100/

Thanks for the information. Now is your pipe thermostat on a triple wall or single wall pipe? Right now I am getting 200 or so degrees with mine on a tripe wall stove pipe. I know the stove is running hotter but that should hotter overall.


I did get mine hookup by a heating and plumbing guy this afternoon and wasn't keen with the 90 degree elbow in the furnace. So right now I am 8 inch take off with a manual shut off flue. I am hoping it will work will see with time.


Does anyone have similar setup?

 

[mustash29]

Single wall pipe. The probe tip is about 6" long, it sticks in all the way.