New fireplace installation

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allpurpose

Member
Jun 16, 2014
9
Iowa
I am considering installing a new EPA fireplace/insert. My house currently has two pre-fab style standard fireplaces (i.e. not masonry). I would prefer to install a soap stone stove or something that will give off 360 degree radiant heat but due to space considerations, I think a high-efficiency fireplace (plus blower of course) would be better. Is there a good resource that would explain how to remodel the existing fireplace area to be code-compliant? Would it require installing brick on the face of the wall (probably, I assume) as well as the "firebox" area? What about a chimney? The existing chimney is standard metal double wall. Many installation guides use an existing masonry fireplace as the starting point, which I don't have.
thanks -
Jared
 
Welcome. I think you may be mixing up fireplaces with fireplace inserts? Not sure. Are you asking about a woodburning insert to go into the current prefab or a total tearout of the current prefab and replacement with a modern EPA ZC (prefab) fireplace? Post a picture of the current setup so that we can see what you are starting with.
 
Welcome. I think you may be mixing up fireplaces with fireplace inserts? Not sure. Are you asking about a woodburning insert to go into the current prefab or a total tearout of the current prefab and replacement with a modern EPA ZC (prefab) fireplace? Post a picture of the current setup so that we can see what you are starting with.

Exactly, it's the terminology I'm missing. I've read through several posts on this site but many involved installing an insert in an existing masonry fireplace. I have a pre-fab standard fireplace that I would like to replace. I don't have floor space for a free-standing stove, so a fireplace is preferred.

[Hearth.com] New fireplace installation

This is the only photo I have right now, but I have concrete floors (with radiant heat) and no hearth. The rug is no longer used. There is a similar unit directly above this one on the second floor, but it has a fan to circulate air around the fire box (but it seems to mostly make noise). That unit has a hearth. They share a chimney cavity, but have separate flues, capped by a simple rain cap and screen.

I love high efficiency things (ANY high efficiency devices!), so a good EPA unit is definitely in the cards. Even a masonry heater type of fireplace would be cool (though quite pricey). When I factor in the value of my time and the availability of wood, however, geothermal becomes another option on the table.

Short term, I need a reasonable improvement to the existing setup at a reasonable price. I don't really have a time frame on this, as I want to get a rough plan before talking specifics with my wife. My perception is that a pre-fab fireplace should not have an insert installed INSIDE of it, correct?
Long term, the options are endless (until they aren't, of course), but might include a boiler/WH, outdoor installation or any number of other high-efficiency options. I've got a 3,200 sqft house with basically a east and west wing and no true central family/great room. Current setup uses propane for the radiant heat as well as a 91% eff propane furnace.

Thanks for any additional input.

Jared
 
Is this a wood burning fireplace? If yes, what is the make and model? There should be a tag with this information on the inside door frame.

Only certain inserts can be installed in certain ZC (zero clearance) fireplaces. That is why the model number is important. Another option if that doesn't work out is to remove the current unit by opening up the chase outside and performing all replacement surgery from outdoors.
 
Is this a wood burning fireplace? If yes, what is the make and model? There should be a tag with this information on the inside door frame.

Only certain inserts can be installed in certain ZC (zero clearance) fireplaces. That is why the model number is important. Another option if that doesn't work out is to remove the current unit by opening up the chase outside and performing all replacement surgery from outdoors.

I wasn't able to find a tag on either fireplace (I have two, only discussing one right now in the LR) but I do have the manuals for both. They are Superior wood-burning units, either model KRI-38-3 or KC-38-3 (it's not clear which is which). It doesn't have a whole lot of interior volume compared to the masonry fireplace at my old house, which makes me think it might be better to remove this unit and start over. What terms should I be using when searching for options for this type of installation? I would think I would be able to use the existing chimney. My home is 3,200 sqft, but due to its odd layout I think it might be more realistic to focus on heating the east wing (LR, Kitch, DR, and the rooms directly above).
 

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I suspect that fireplace does not permit an insert to be installed. It uses BC8 pipe which I am not sure is HT 2100 rated. If not, it will also need to be replaced. There are a couple options here. If the space is 48" wide you may be able to install a freestanding stove with close clearances as an alcove installation. Alternatively the Superior could be replaced with a modern EPA fireplace designed for heating.
 
I suspect that fireplace does not permit an insert to be installed. It uses BC8 pipe which I am not sure is HT 2100 rated. If not, it will also need to be replaced. There are a couple options here. If the space is 48" wide you may be able to install a freestanding stove with close clearances as an alcove installation. Alternatively the Superior could be replaced with a modern EPA fireplace designed for heating.

I am not surprised that an insert wouldn't be permitted, and it has started to sound a little hokey anyway. I'm fairly certain my wife would prefer the EPA fireplace option, as it better fits the aesthetic of the room. What are the chances that the chimney chase would require modification ($$) in replacing the pipe?
thanks again -
Jared
 
What are the chances that the chimney chase would require modification ($$) in replacing the pipe?
In most cases the chase is fine but there is usually framing work that needs done for the box itself but that varies allot
 
Hi Jared I am in the same boat as you. I have the Superior KC-38-3 that I would like to rip out. Trying to figure out if it will come out the back of the house or can be removed carefully from front? I want to replace with a direct vent gas fireplace. My concern is that it may be bolted to wall behind the brick surround and I really don't want to take down all the brick. Any chance you can share what you did and how? I also would love to get my hands on a copy of your manual for my contractor. The page that would let me know how it was framed. Hope to hear from you.
Thanks
Darlene
 
Hi Jared I am in the same boat as you. I have the Superior KC-38-3 that I would like to rip out. Trying to figure out if it will come out the back of the house or can be removed carefully from front? I want to replace with a direct vent gas fireplace. My concern is that it may be bolted to wall behind the brick surround and I really don't want to take down all the brick. Any chance you can share what you did and how? I also would love to get my hands on a copy of your manual for my contractor. The page that would let me know how it was framed. Hope to hear from you.
Thanks
Darlene
Yes There will probably be straps screwed fast behind the brick they will need cut. And the manual will not tell you how it was framed you need to open things up in order to find that out
 
Yes There will probably be straps screwed fast behind the brick they will need cut. And the manual will not tell you how it was framed you need to open things up in order to find that out
I was hoping to pull out from the back of chimney and replace with a direct vent gas unit. I don't know how it will look from the front if the straps have been cut and I don't want to pull the brick down. (sorry only photo I had was xmas photo lol)
 

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I was hoping to pull out from the back of chimney and replace with a direct vent gas unit. I don't know how it will look from the front if the straps have been cut and I don't want to pull the brick down.
The straps are behind the brick which is why they need cut not just unscrewed you wont see them.
 
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