New guy with a question

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REM505

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So I was sitting in the living room this winter with the thermostat set at 58 thinking if a wood stove would work for us. Now it is March and we are due to have a stove installed in a couple of weeks and enter the world of wood heating. On Friday I noticed a bunch of wood sitting in the yard next to my kids preschool and asked if it was available. It was cut in lengths but now I need to split it. So I got a maul and a sturdy hunk of metal (called a 'wood grenade' i think) which is now stuck in the mddle of the cut wood about a 1/2" below the surface.

So I have a couple of questions. Is it easier to wait for the wood dry out before trying to split it? For the big pieces should I try to chip out parts from the edges (I was just trying to split down the middle). and will it be worth it to get a chain saw at Home Despot?

BTW we have ordered a Avalon Arbor.
 
Split from the outer edges. Really doesn't get any easier over time. Chainsaw will always help in many ways.
 
If splitting by hand, you will find a few wedges and a sledge to be your friend. If you have never stuck a maul, you haven't split enough wood.

As Jay stated, work from the outside.
 
You might want to repost in the Hearth Room section if you're thinking about starting to heat with wood. First thing to consider is that you either need to buy wood or find some already seasoned, if you expect to install the stove and just start burning you might be disappointed - the most important part of the setup is good dry wood. If you're looking for next year, then it's a good idea to start getting wood cut and split now so some of it is dry enough next fall. If you're looking at hardwoods, especially oak, they can take 2-3 years to dry properly. Softwood species like pine can season in 3-6 months. Also, even standing or lying dead hardwoods are likely to be "green" if they're not split. Not trying to discourage you, I did the same thing - bought the stove then had to find wood. It worked out fine once I knew what to look for and what to expect. Just had to look for smaller branches and stuff that was already well-dried. Good luck!
 
cool stove...

get a few more wedges.. you are going to need them anyway.
 
If you can find some cherry and maple, and get it split ASAP, you may have a good pile ready for winter. Do some research on this site about seasoning and moisture. Welcome.
 
Jack Wagon said:
So I got a maul and a sturdy hunk of metal (called a 'wood grenade' i think) which is now stuck in the middle of the cut wood about a 1/2" below the surface.

Better to get one stuck than have one fly out at you...........

And welcome to the forum, there's loads of info around here, this is the right place to learn about cutting wood, seasoning wood, and burning wood!!!!!!!!!
 
Hi -

Try it now. Sooner is better. That said if you have lots to split, and there are more that one type, I would set the more difficult stuff aside and split it later. Some wood will split better frozen also. I slao cut a half dozen large wooden wedges out of Elm once in a while. They are handy for retreiving stuck wedges.

On a dare with my kids I split a stump that was to heavy to load in my pickup with a couple steel wedges and 8 or so wooden wedges. It took a couple hours but no chains were hurt ; )

Welcome!
 
Jack,

First welcome to the forum. Read all that you can here and you will be well on your way to shorten the learning curve on wood burning. Much to many peoples surprise it isn't just a matter of "chucking in a couple of logs", but it isn't rocket science either.

As far as splitting manually, that is how I split my wood and at times it can be quite taxing. I have yet to go the hydro split road but have considered it with some of the more knarly splits I have messed with. I always split my logs as soon as I can so that they have max time to season. I am now taking care of wood for the heating season of 2012-2013, and 2013-2014. You will want to get at least 2 years ahead.

If you don't have a chainsaw I assume you are going to be buying your wood. If that is the case, then no you do not need a chainsaw, although I will lay odds that you will start to see so many roadside BTUs that you will eventually end up scrounging some of your wood. There are many ways to get "free" wood that you will have to process, then you need a chainsaw. a maul, some wedges. along with all of the proper personal protection equipment.

Don't skimp on safety !!!!!

Now that you have started to burn wood, even if you don't plan on burning all the time, you will get bit by the wood scrounging bug, (most can not resist) and be posting your scores !!!

Good luck, have fun, read all that you can here, and be warm,

Shawn
 
If you are planning to cut your own wood don't buy your chainsaw at home depot. Find an authorized stihl dealer or the like that can service it. It will pay off down the road, my first saw was from home depot and it broke down under warranty, but I had to ship it half way across the country to have it fixed and it ended up as a real PITA. I spent maybe an exta $40 to have a stihl instead of a home depot saw for my current, but if/when something goes wrong its a 10 mile drive to have someone fix it. Plus, you can't beat stihl power at home depot, two different worlds. Just my 2 cents
 
Jack Wagon said:
So I was sitting in the living room this winter with the thermostat set at 58 thinking if a wood stove would work for us. Now it is March and we are due to have a stove installed in a couple of weeks and enter the world of wood heating. On Friday I noticed a bunch of wood sitting in the yard next to my kids preschool and asked if it was available. It was cut in lengths but now I need to split it. So I got a maul and a sturdy hunk of metal (called a 'wood grenade' i think) which is now stuck in the mddle of the cut wood about a 1/2" below the surface.

So I have a couple of questions. Is it easier to wait for the wood dry out before trying to split it? For the big pieces should I try to chip out parts from the edges (I was just trying to split down the middle). and will it be worth it to get a chain saw at Home Despot?

BTW we have ordered a Avalon Arbor.

Welcome to the forum Jack! Also welcome to the wonderful world of wood burning.

You'll get lots of help on this forum and most of it is great. There will always be a little conflicting opinion on some things so take that into consideration.

Congratulations to you on starting to get your wood supply. That is or should be the very first order of business when preparing but sadly most folks think of the wood only after the stove has been installed and they are ready to burn the wood. Sadly, that is when they get a real wake up call. Most think there is something wrong with their stove but 99% of the time is simply is poor fuel.

You will also learn very quickly that all wood is not created equal. By the sounds of things, you may have found some elm which is about the toughest type of wood to split that there is. Then there is white ash, which is plentiful in most places now because we have the Asian Ash Borer that is killing all the trees. That wood splits so easy a child can do it. But do take time to start learning the different types of wood. You will also notice that some wood burns longer than others so you get more heat from, say, oak vs. elm or soft maple.

I would also recommend that you get some regular steel wedges (2 minimum; 3 is better) rather than the gernade. The gernade will work good for some wood but not all.

No matter what wood you get, it will not start to season until you get it split. So the first order of business is to get the wood and get it cut to length. Then get it split and then stack it. Make sure you stack it off the ground else it will trap moisture. Wood needs good air circulation in order to season properly. So stack it off the ground (a few inches), stack it out where it will get some wind. Some sun is good too but the wind will dry it faster.

There is lots of opinion on if you should cover your wood piles or not. Some do and some don't. We cut our wood in the winter, split it in the Spring and stack it immediately after the splitting. We then leave it uncovered through the summer and fall but if we have a wet fall I would not hesitate to cover it. But we normally cover it about the time snow starts to fly. Most important though is that you cover only the top of the pile. Never cover the ends or sides.

There is much to learn but I've typed enough for you right now. Please do not hesitate to ask questions as there is much knowledge on this forum and there are many good folks who are willing and able to show you the right way to do things. That is why most of us are here. Good luck to you.
 
Welcome to the forum and the world of wood burning! I can't add anything to what the others have stated and they are 100% correct! Save yourself some grief and get that wood split and stacked in an area with good air movement and sun exposure if possible.. Cover it around Sept. unless it stays dry there and only cover the top of the stacks.. You'll learn to love seeing the oil trucks drive by your home knowing they aren't stopping for you!

Ray
 
Cheap / easy way to get wood off the ground is to get some wood shipping pallets (or skids, same thing), lots of places give them away. They're about 4' square and you can add T-posts or something for ends if you want.
 
I started looking at lot more closer at wooded lots a couple of minutes after we bought the stove! I'll have to buy the rest. I'm hoping to get some burns in this spring, hopefully I can find some seasoned wood as I have seen ALOT of posts about the value of dry wood (and a good draft). Quite a bit of valuable knowledge here.
I tried chipping away at the edges and was suprised how well went. I didn't always get the nice quartered pieces like in the Hollywood movies but it came off a lot quicker. So now I'll have to get a couple of wedges and look into a quality chainsaw.
Thanks for all the info and the warm welcome.
 
Well with the tips you got in the above posts.
All I got to say is

Welcome.
Good site, good folks, lots of valuable knowledge that's just a question away.
PS: get wood asap, get it cut, get it split, get it drying. May have heard that here already. ;)
Probably hear it again.
 
Jack Wagon said:
I started looking at lot more closer at wooded lots a couple of minutes after we bought the stove! I'll have to buy the rest. I'm hoping to get some burns in this spring, hopefully I can find some seasoned wood as I have seen ALOT of posts about the value of dry wood (and a good draft). Quite a bit of valuable knowledge here.
I tried chipping away at the edges and was suprised how well went. I didn't always get the nice quartered pieces like in the Hollywood movies but it came off a lot quicker. So now I'll have to get a couple of wedges and look into a quality chainsaw.
Thanks for all the info and the warm welcome.

Jack, you know you are going to be buying some wood....then begin looking for it immediately, if not sooner. Buy it this spring, not next fall. The sellers will always state it is seasoned but do not count on that. Buy it now and stack it out in the open air so it will hopefully be ready by next fall. Needing the wood that soon, if it were me, I would not buy oak because that will not be ready next fall.

btw, here is one more thing to keep in mind about wood sellers. Many of them will state that the wood has been cut or a tree has been down or dead for a year or more. Do not let that influence your decision on the seasoning....because it is not seasoned. You can cut standing dead trees that have been dead for 3 or more years and it will still be full of moisture. The way to get that moisture out is to expose the innards to air and that means to get it split. Do not count any seasoning time until the wood is split and stacked.
 
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