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CabinLife

New Member
Jun 5, 2011
4
Western NC Mtns
Have been reading post here for a while. Tons of great info. Its nice to be able to get on the net and get information from those who know much more than myself. Last winter was my first winter burning wood. Had a dealer come out and he suggested the enerzone 2.9, so that is what I got. My home is 2400 square feet. Very open floor plan. 1st floor is just a great room, master bedroom and kitchen. Typical log cabin style home with a cathedral ceiling in the great room. (Has ceiling fans). I noticed on the enerzones site that for the 2.9, 2400 sq ft seems to be the max for this stove. So that did get me to thinking if i should have got the next size up. The dealer, who was very helpful, felt like the 2.9 would be more than fine for my house. Was curious if any enerzone folks had any general thoughts on this.
Thanks
 
Welcome!!

Here in NH I always encourage my customers to go bigger when it doubt, but we get pretty darn cold in the winter. Did the stove keep you warm last winter? How long did you go between loads?
 
Welcome!

Just a thought--there's always the option of going with two stoves. From the layout you described, having a stove that would be a duel purpose heater/cookstove could fill the bill very nicely. That way you could run one, the other, or both as needed for heat and function. That might sound a little over-the-top, but you wouldn't be the first to do it. And *nothing* bakes like a woodstove oven.
 
Welcome to the forum! I am not familiar with the Enerzone stoves but someone else may know about them.. I too was advised to go larger with my 1632 sq. ft. log home but decided to buy the one rated up to 2000 sq. ft.. Hopefully I will be OK.. If I can get an overnight burn I should be OK.. Will find out next winter..

Ray
 
c'mon, cabinlife...ya gotta have more questions than that! well, were you satisfied with the stove's performance last winter?? seems that a lot of people go larger on the wood stoves. i think they are rated under the ideal maximum output when they state something like "heats up to 2000 sq.ft."
anyway, welcome aboard and keep in mind that this is the slow time of the season, so your questions may only be answered by a few...
 
Not sure how satisfied I am due to it was my first winter and I'm sure there were some user mistakes. I know truly seasoned wood is key. I never really felt like I understood how to get the house up to the temp.I wanted, and then how to go to maintance mode. I did feel like the 2.9 would be fine due to the fact the dealers heat there show room with the 3.4 which is the next size up and there showroom is massive. In the mtns here it gets really cold. I'm hoping goimg with the 2.9 instead of the 3.4 wasn't a mistake. Thanks for the help
 
cmonSTART said:
CabinLife said:
I know truly seasoned wood is key.

Amen!

X2... Knowing that.. Your already ahead of the curve. Welcome to the Forum. Bunch of Great people with great advice.

CabinLife.. How much wood do you have for this winter? And how "Seasoned" is it? Best to be a few years ahead, but if you've read anything. Then you know that already.

There is a Forum member (Franks), he has an Enerzone (also a dealer), that he heats his home with. You could PM him or he may see this thread. The more info in your thread title (stove make and model) will attract more people with that particular brand/make/model. Anyways. Cheers. You have stumbled across the greatest Hearth Forum there is.
 
cmonSTART said:
CabinLife said:
I know truly seasoned wood is key.

Amen!

+1

Looks like a beast of a stove. 85,000 BTUs, 52,000 btu EPA test : (broken link removed to http://enerzone-intl.com/product.aspx?CategoId=1&Id=417&Page=spec)
Should heat even a uninsulated home in your area. May need to move some air around to heat the whole house evenly.

The 3.4 is a dragon, ( 100,000 BTUs) : (broken link removed to http://enerzone-intl.com/product.aspx?CategoId=1&Id=443&Page=spec)
 
cmonSTART said:
CabinLife said:
I know truly seasoned wood is key.

Amen!

So long as that really means "very dry", absolutely. Dunno what "seasoned" means, in terms of anything quantifiable.
 
After heating one winter you should know it if does heat well enough and you are the final judge on that.

As for going one step larger, that is usually good advice.....in the north. I know the mountains can get cold but it would be very difficult to compare the winter there vs further north.
 
You are running a 3.0 cuft firebox on a pretty nice stove. If the 2400 sqft that you are trying to heat is well insulated and tight (no drafts), you should be able to make it work. If it was an older home with old windows and questionable insulation, I would definitely step up to the larger stove. Lots of variables.

So, how did it heat last year?? What kind of burn times were you getting while maintaining house temps (this excludes startup)?

And welcome to the forum.
 
Jags said:
You are running a 3.0 cuft firebox on a pretty nice stove. If the 2400 sqft that you are trying to heat is well insulated and tight (no drafts), you should be able to make it work.

And welcome to the forum.

+1 on this advice it should heat your house without a problem if it's fairly well insulated.
 
My only issue with the dealers suggestion of the 2.9 is that for just a couple of hundred more, you could have had the 3.4, which is a monster..with the fan included. The cost different between the two has just about made the 2.9 unsellable. I used the 3.4 to heat my home for 2 years. For around $2,000 a 3.4 firebox with an excellent lifetime warranty (includes glass, baffles, etc) a blower, ash pan its a huge value. If someone is shopping value and wants to heat over 1800 sf feet or so, I'll sell them the 3.4

Can always put less wood in during the milder weather.
 
I am seeing a lot of advice here for a larger stove, but still encourage you to at least give some serious thought about whether a second stove might suit your needs. I'm guessing that where you live, 90% of the time the stove you've got will meet your needs. You'd be up-sizing and possibly taking a hit on the stove you've got now by going with a bigger stove to meet your heating needs for maybe just a month or so when what you've got isn't doing it.

Unless the dealer is giving you a time-limited opportunity to upsize without taking a loss, then you've got no need to rush into anything until you know that the stove is undersized. I sure wouldn't buy a bigger stove until I knew that.

I'd also look at how you're underheated, if it turns out that you are. Do you have cold spots far from the stove, or is it an overall "it's just not warm enough in here" feeling. There are a lot of ways to approach these different problems, too. Sometimes all it takes is a fan pointed in the right direction, or upgrading the insulation.

For some folks, putting in a strategically located second stove is a good answer. Dual-purpose stoves that can heat and cook/bake ( Esse (broken link removed to http://www.esse.com/stoves/multifuel_wood/ironheart.html) is a high-end example of that; Marine Stoves by Navigator Stove Works (broken link removed to http://www.marinestove.com/are) cute little workhorses that do the same thing), or little supplemental stoves like the Morso Squirrel (broken link removed) can warm a chilly corner. You then have the added expense of a chimney for it, so lots to weigh and balance. Not the right answer for everyone, but there are several people here happily running more than one wood stove.

Thinking doesn't cost a thing--just good to consider all the options before you sign the check. Good luck with your decision.
 
Thanks for all the advice thus far. Few thoughts or issues.
1. Not sure completly how a felt last winter due to fact that often times i didnt have great wood and I have never operated a stove before. Even when I did have 2 yr oak I never felt like (and still dont)I knew how to get the house up to the temp I wanted. Do i keep the Air all the way open while I am trying to raise the the temp, do i shut it down earlier so there is less air???How do i raise the temperature of the house, and then how to maintain. (Man am I showing how green I am)
2. Didnt go with the 3.4 for 3 reasons. 1 i like the look of the 2.9 better, 2 the 3.4 heats the dealers massive showroom and i thought it would be overkill, and most importantly the dealer told me the 2.9 would be fine. (man I hope he is right)
3. Another concern I have is my ceiling in the great room is slightly over 20 feet high, I wonder if this makes it harder to heat the home. I have 2 large ceiling fans though so i dont know.
4. Burn times varied (prolly due to user error)
5. In bedroom, which is just off the great room, i never felt like i did a good job of getting warm air circulated in there.
 
Dry Wood x A Million, and use your ceiling fans on low in reverse in your great room. We run all of our ceiling fans in reverse and on low (1 in kitchen and 1 in Dining room 24/7, bedrooms all have ceiling fans, only run when we sleep.). I also use the corner EntreeAir fans for our bedrooms. They do a great job. 1 or 2 hrs before bed, kick them on and the bedroom is within 1-2 degrees of the rest of the house. Suncourt makes some models also. Both companies make a Through-the-wall Fan. More CFM's with that unit. Also more $$

Operating the stove and getting it hotter will also help move the air convectivly. Most houses get by with the natural convection from the heat. Do you own a Stove Top thermometer? Or a Flue Thermometer? Condor makes a pretty good unit. They are not perfect. But they let you know that your in the Ball-Park.

Cant help with the overall burn. I have yet to fire my stove. All this info on fans is from heating with a pellet stove. Same principle. Heat in one room and you need to get it to all of them.. The wood thing, is something that everyone will tell you. Dry Wood. Start there and you should be fine.
 
CabinLife said:
Thanks for all the advice thus far. Few thoughts or issues.
1. Not sure completly how a felt last winter due to fact that often times i didnt have great wood and I have never operated a stove before. Even when I did have 2 yr oak I never felt like (and still dont)I knew how to get the house up to the temp I wanted. Do i keep the Air all the way open while I am trying to raise the the temp, do i shut it down earlier so there is less air???How do i raise the temperature of the house, and then how to maintain. (Man am I showing how green I am)
2. Didnt go with the 3.4 for 3 reasons. 1 i like the look of the 2.9 better, 2 the 3.4 heats the dealers massive showroom and i thought it would be overkill, and most importantly the dealer told me the 2.9 would be fine. (man I hope he is right)
3. Another concern I have is my ceiling in the great room is slightly over 20 feet high, I wonder if this makes it harder to heat the home. I have 2 large ceiling fans though so i dont know.
4. Burn times varied (prolly due to user error)
5. In bedroom, which is just off the great room, i never felt like i did a good job of getting warm air circulated in there.

Definitely run the ceiling fans in reverse during the winter and you will notice a huge difference when they start pushing the hot air back down. One house I lived in had huge cathedral ceilings and it was a constant fight to get the heat back down where I was at instead of 20 ft above me.

If you are running the stove wide open for the majority of the burn cycle you are probably sending most of your heat up the chimney as well as overfiring the stove! You need to get the wood charred and shut it down in stages while sustaining the secondary combustion. Once you start doing this you will probably notice a difference in the stove temps as the whole stove will start to heat up instead of sending the heat up the flue.
 
CabinLife said:
Thanks for all the advice thus far. Few thoughts or issues.

1. Not sure completly how a felt last winter due to fact that often times i didnt have great wood and I have never operated a stove before. Even when I did have 2 yr oak I never felt like (and still dont)I knew how to get the house up to the temp I wanted. Do i keep the Air all the way open while I am trying to raise the the temp, do i shut it down earlier so there is less air???How do i raise the temperature of the house, and then how to maintain. (Man am I showing how green I am)

2 year old old many times is not dry enough to burn right. We always wait 3 years on oak. Also, this is 3 years after it has been split and stacked; not 3 years from when the tree was cut or died. Wood starts drying after it has been cut to length and split. Then it needs to be stacked outside in the wind.

No, you do not keep the draft full open because if you then most of the heat just goes straight up the chimney. Leave the draft full open just until the fire gets going fair and then start dialing it back. This will keep more heat in the stove which can than radiate out into the room. How much to cut back depends upon each stove and installation but a rule of thumb says to cut it by half. As the fire goes more then you begin dropping it more. Where the final setting is can vary a lot from stove to stove. It can also vary a lot with the wood and also with the weather you are having at the time.



2. Didnt go with the 3.4 for 3 reasons. 1 i like the look of the 2.9 better, 2 the 3.4 heats the dealers massive showroom and i thought it would be overkill, and most importantly the dealer told me the 2.9 would be fine. (man I hope he is right)

Sometimes it is best to go with the dealer's recommendation but sadly we have found over the years that dealers do not know as much as they should. However there are some great dealers; finding them is the difficult part. But a 2.9 firebox should give you lots of heat and it seems it should be enough. Fuel is the big key here along with learning how to properly run the stove. Also, have you cleaned the chimney yet?



3. Another concern I have is my ceiling in the great room is slightly over 20 feet high, I wonder if this makes it harder to heat the home. I have 2 large ceiling fans though so i dont know.

That is not necessarily bad. Just made sure the fans are blowing up rather than down. This cooperates with the natural flow of air. Cool air along the walls flows down. That has to be replaced with warmer air going up in the center of the room and then back down, etc. I used to do it wrong too until someone pointed out the difference and I found out their method worked! You can teach old dogs new tricks after all!

4. Burn times varied (prolly due to user error)

Not necessarily due to operator error. Burn times vary greatly upon what type of wood is in there and how you have the draft set.


5. In bedroom, which is just off the great room, i never felt like i did a good job of getting warm air circulated in there.

Another trick with the fan. Set a small table fan (not pedestal) on the floor in the doorway of the bedroom. Set it on the lowest setting and blow the cool air towards the stove room. You bedroom should heat quite rapidly. (Another trick this old dog learned on hearth.com)
 
THANKS. Think i have a better idea now. Also for now I still feel pretty good about the stove I got.
 
CabinLife said:
Think i have a better idea now.

Stick around - you won't BELIEVE how smart we get after a 12 pack.
 
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