New Jotul 602 Damper partial closure

[davstr]

Hi everyone,

I've scanned through the Jotul 602 posts and see a lot about the way this title stove likes to roar. No exception with my new 602. I run about 15" of double wall pipe on the interior with 5 feet of insulated stainless double wall on the outside. No issues with draft whatsoever (we're at sea level) and the draw has been wonderful from day one. But wow does this stove like to burn. Currently my only accurate thermometer has been my thermo pen but it's not really set up for tis application. It's read within the acceptable levels of 550-600 degree on the boil plate.

I'm wondering if the front air control is supposed to only close half way? Mine will open fully where I see the grates open completely, and then when I close it down, it appears closed from a face on view, but looking from the right side, it's still quite open. There doesn't seem to be an option to close any further. But perhaps this is the design? Pretty impressed that it does burn so cleanly ... not any smoke at all.

Cheers,

 

[peakbagger]

This looks to be some newer version of the original 602 based on the logo. In general, the way to burn wood clean is to burn it hot. The temptation of most stove owners is to get the fire going then crank the air down. That slows down the burn but the cost is dirtier combustion. If I use an automotive comparison, imagine a car that is started with the throttle held down to the floor with the engine speed controlled by sticking a sock in the air intake. Yes the engine may slow down but its going to be pumping raw gas out the tailpipe. The solution to this is limit the fuel put in the stove and let it go out If you do not need the heat. To prevent the temptation of cranking the air off, many modern stoves design them so that the air cannot be turned off fully. This ensures a clean burn but as you have noted it leads to stove with no "turn down" capacity. Catalytic stoves tend to have better turn down capability but the trade off for clean air and clean chimneys is a hot burn.

BTW original Jotul 602s had a rep for creosote and chimney fires. They were designed for short hot burns possibly a cold kitchen in the AM and in the evening. They heated up quick and burned clean then went out. American stove buyers wanted convenience and the infamous all night burn. The typical US operator would get it heated up with a coal bed, then stuff the firebox with big splits and then crank down the air. The stove quickly went into smolder mode and the chimney filled up with creosote. Jotul stopped importing their 606 (a super efficient version of a 602) because they couldnt train the owners to use them right.

About all you can do is have dry wood split small and stock up on fire starters and use the stove the way it was designed. During shoulder seasons, burn small fires and avoid going for the all night burn.

 

[RockCastile]

The grate should close farther than that. When mine is all the way shut there's only one or two spots where I can barely see a sliver of fire light through it if I stand and look from well to the right of the stove front. Could there be an obstruction preventing it from sliding all the way left? Might take it apart and fiddle around a bit. Just pay attention while disassembling to how the two springs are supposed to be positioned in there and hang on to the little piece of flat gasket that sits on top. Might even try flipping the damper upside down.

 

[begreen]

All modern stoves allow a little air to get through even with the air control closed. This is to avoid a smoldering fire. That said, the 602's air control is pretty basic and a little sloppy. It would be good to see if a casting blob is blocking the air control from closing further or if the track it rides in is loose.

 

[Todd]

My 602cb was the same way at first then that spring loosened up and the air slide seemed to close a bit more. I could still see a slight gap in there if you look at it from the side. I think your fine.

 

[davstr]

All great information, thanks guys.

I admit I fall into the category of build a great coal bed, load it up and crank it down for the night. I previously (and still do) fire a BIS 2.0 which has been a wonderful stove to use. If you're familiar with the stove my style of burn may make sense. The BIS, burning birch hardwood on a cedar kindling start can easily be shut down, still burn hot and relatively clean on a 20' chimney with rolling flames through the wee hours. That being said ... I currently have a Kent Tile stove from the early 80's heating a wall tent so this new 602 is a definite move away from the load it up and shut it down style of burning (smouldering).

I'm wondering if any other 602 owners out there can have a quick look at their grate in the front and tell me if, when it is shut down completely to the left, does the closure tab sit in the middle of the slot or does it slide completely to the left. Mine sits at about halfway between the middle and the left.

Cheers

 

[davstr]

All modern stoves allow a little air to get through even with the air control closed. This is to avoid a smoldering fire. That said, the 602's air control is pretty basic and a little sloppy. It would be good to see if a casting blob is blocking the air control from closing further or if the track it rides in is loose.

Great advice. I removed the grate and was able to get a little more closure in it when I repositioned the screws but the gap is still significant.

 

[mikey]

My new 602 v2 burns hot 600 at front corner with a stove top gage I have it in a existing fireplace with stainless pipe, I burn klin dried mixed hardwood is this ok.

 

[begreen]

My new 602 v2 burns hot 600 at front corner with a stove top gage I have it in a existing fireplace with stainless pipe, I burn klin dried mixed hardwood is this ok.

Sounds about right. Turn down the air as soon as possible without smoldering the fire to slow down the burn.

 

[mikey]

I have a new jotul 602 v2 that replaced a jotul f100, it was 10 years old and I never liked the east west loading on that small of a stove. my new 602 ran very hot you could see a lot of flame through the damper even when it was fully closed. I removed the door undid the screws and damper cover on the inside of the door you need to be careful to remember how it comes apart screws and spring, I removed the slider you may notice that on the right side of it some some casting material that prevented it from sliding fully to the right, I filed it off you may still see slight openings but the ability to damp it down will be much improved, it made a great difference

 

[johnnyvirgil]

I just bought a V2 and already had a CB. If you remove the door, and take the front damper apart, you'll notice the V2 has two little casting bump outs that prevent the damper from sliding completely closed. The theory is that they did it for a hotter burn in order to pass the 2020 epa limits without a catalyst. Here's a youtube video that explains it.

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[peakbagger]

The downside of this mod should be pointed out, being able to choke off the air below the design makes the stove more prone to incomplete combustion when starved of air by fully closing the front air damper and subsequent leads to potential creosote build up. The two go hand in hand, the EPA wants to reduce the amount of unburned gases going into the air and a stove owner wants to avoid burning their house down with creosote.

 

[RockCastile]

Per the YouTube video, if I'm seeing it correctly it looks like the damper on the new V2 (or his at least) barely closes halfway. If that's the case then kind of why bother? I support clean combustion but can't say I wouldn't be tempted to file those puppies down. When I swipe left after getting my 2015 model 602 up to speed, the secondaries light up and cruise, definitely not a smoldering look to the flames. For those set up with strong draft, I'm not seeing the harm in the mod.

 

[johnnyvirgil]

Per the YouTube video, if I'm seeing it correctly it looks like the damper on the new V2 (or his at least) barely closes halfway. If that's the case then kind of why bother? I support clean combustion but can't say I wouldn't be tempted to file those puppies down. When I swipe left after getting my 2015 model 602 up to speed, the secondaries light up and cruise, definitely not a smoldering look to the flames. For those set up with strong draft, I'm not seeing the harm in the mod.

I get the same thing on my CB. Once I close it all the way, it's still got a nice rolling flame. I'm burning dry wood, and only have a 15' chimney and it still gets a great draft. I haven't got the V2 hooked up yet, but it'll be interesting to compare.

 

[webby3650]

The old versions of the 602 didn’t allow the glass to tightened. Have you tried moving your glass up and down? I bet it’s loose in the frame. I use a 602cb as an end table. It’s glass sits loose in the door too.