New member hello and a great deal!!!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

KCFlier

Member
Feb 4, 2018
18
Tonganoxie, KS
Hello from extreme eastern Kansas...
I scored an amazing deal from a very nice young couple.
2010 Heatilator Constitution, few fires ran in it. Firebrick are perfect, no warping of the firebox...baffle board is fine, going to replace blanket just because I see that as a "wear" kind of thing. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. I paid $800 for this unit, and am ready to have it installed.
I have a nice hearth with a Heatilator gas unit...and a very large external chase about 20' above that. ZC is being put in a large room with 20' cathedral ceilings (2 large ceiling fans).
House is 2x6 construction(2007) 5 ton ground source heat pump...2800 Sq ft on main floor...spray insulation, very tight. Will have OAK for combustion, and SL300 air cooled pipe. I will post pics of tearout and construction. It will be installed professionally by a dealer....a box of fire in my house demands this!!!!
I have spent 10's of hrs gaining wisdom from this place...looking forward to many more and to sharing any wisdom I myself gain!!!
 
That's what my wife thought, too, so we had to pay through the nose for an install, and then we had to pull it all out and do it properly ourselves. Buyer beware.
Yep same thing happened to me. Still have to redo. Will need a new liner, insulation and block off plate. Who would think you cant ovalize a light wall liner with a sledge hammer and install upside down.
 
Ouch!!!
This company has done hundreds of installs, so hopefully there will be no horror stories here!!!
But if there is will be sure to include them!!!!
 
Here is where it will live...whiteout conditions currently in the background....
 

Attachments

  • 1517764794680-1316527233.jpg
    1517764794680-1316527233.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 280
Does that unit have an option for solid insulated chimney? I would go that route if possible.
Make sure there is a draft stop at the lower ceiling level and that the exterior walls are insulated properly. This is often overlooked, even on new highly efficient homes.
 
Does that unit have an option for solid insulated chimney? I would go that route if possible.
Make sure there is a draft stop at the lower ceiling level and that the exterior walls are insulated properly. This is often overlooked, even on new highly efficient homes.
As in duravent? If so yes I could use that....when I get into the chase, I'll find out about all the rest...
 
Congrats on the new install.


IIRC, the heatilator units are pretty specific on the venting used. At least the 2016 model prescribed two manufacture's systems, so that may be the reason that the Selkirk chimney is being used. I looked at one before ultimately going with the PE in my signature.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCFlier
8" SL300 or 8" DuraPlus chimney can be used.
 
DuraTech is their higher quality pipe. Duraplus is Duravent's low cost, value line. Don't worry about it, either will get the job done. Check on the fireplace flue connection. If SL300 is easier to mate without and adapter, then perhaps that may be a better choice. Just get the right starter collar. DuraPlus looks like an easier install.

Chimney Air Kit, Part CAK4A is required when using the SL-300 Pipe Series. Detailed instructions are supplied with the kit. If using the Dura-Plus System (must be 8 in./203 mm in diameter), the starter ring that came with the fireplace must be removed and replaced with the Dura-Plus Base Plate. The CAK4A is not required with a Dura-Plus System.
 
Last edited:
What are the issues if my chase is uninsulated? Does this affect draft? I'm trying to visualize why this would be an issue.. If it is then it is... can someone explain ? The more you know...ya know?
 
What are the issues if my chase is uninsulated? Does this affect draft? I'm trying to visualize why this would be an issue.. If it is then it is... can someone explain ? The more you know...ya know?
The priority is keeping the house warm, right? The chase is an extension of the living space so sealing and insulating the chase like the house is important, especially on a day like we are having today with 30mph steady winds and temps dropping
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/insulate-chimney-chase-correct.34835/
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...nd-durability/102720/chimney-chase-insulation
 
Funny they built 2x6 construction w/spray foam...tight as all get out air wise..nice ground source...nice huge chase...and did not insulate it...
Going to go with wisdom here, and insulate the chase...no worries clearance-wise...thing is huge....I believe it was made to have another unit below it on the "basement" floor...thanks for the advice!!!
 
Well done my friend. It looks great. Fire it up and get warm. Something tells me the install cost a bit more than the insert.

I lightened up your picture a bit so we can see it better.

1543635618934-1850306262.jpg
 
Thanks for the pic begreen... and you are correct...install was a bit...bout $3000 total...I think that's a good price since the Constitution was sooooo cheap and basically brand new...it is in fine working order.
I have very seasoned wood, and an excellent draft. Cut air down once it's roaring and get beautiful wispy secondaries.
I want to thank the board for all of the wisdom on here...I have read every post every day and learned so much.
I look forward to contributing when I can.
 
That is a great deal overall. Glad it worked out well. If you get a chance on a bright day to take a full fireplace shot from further back I'd love to see the whole picture of this install.