New Old User

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Have a Vermont Castings Resolute in the back of the pickup heading to a dealer for an inspection.
Almost bought a new Buck 21 but decided to check out what I have.
The install is into a modular/trailer, fuel prices have made me do it. Cost over $1k last heating season, oh my!
Ordered piping, thinking of going through the wall, up the outside so there is no roof penetration.
Will post up the inspection results, would appreciate any advise, suggestions, thanks.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Selling the VC.
Bought a Buck 21, pipe and a cap.
Need to get the air line, legs I think, and protective wall, floor material, anything else...oh yea, firewood.

 

[bholler]

Selling the VC.
Bought a Buck 21, pipe and a cap.
Need to get the air line, legs I think, and protective wall, floor material, anything else...oh yea, firewood.

Chimney and all of the required components for it connector pipe and components. Pipe thermometer. Hearth pad. And you should already have already had firewood for a year at this point

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Chimney and all of the required components for it connector pipe and components. Pipe thermometer. Hearth pad. And you should already have already had firewood for a year at this point

Thanks, got a little wood lot, plenty of down wood.
Is a pipe thermometer required for double wall pipe?
Where do you buy wood stove accessory components?

 

[bholler]

Thanks, got a little wood lot, plenty of down wood.
Is a pipe thermometer required for double wall pipe?
Where do you buy wood stove accessory components?

Yes a pipe thermometer is pretty much required in order to run the stove properly. Double wall will need a probe thermometer. You buy components from a chimney supplier or stove dealer for the most part

 

[begreen]

Going up through the roof close to the middle is a better plan. The stove will probably want to have 15 ft of flue. Adding 90º turns in the flue path will slow down the flue gases and draft and may require additional height to draft properly. In a manufactured home the stove also requires an outside air kit and it needs to be bolted down to the hearth.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Cancelled the Buck, too much confusing information, starting from scratch.
But there will not be any stoves out there by late summer because, so not dilly dallying
Looking for bolt down, outside air, thinking heating capacity of twice the 1,000 living space for very cold once in a 100 year cold spell, I live in Maine. Non-cat!
Platform or legs?
Firebox size or BTU's, is there a way to put a finger on heating output with a overnight burning time?
In checking other threads here found the name Drolet.
Viewed a picture of crispy studs here, trailers going up like a Roman candle is a real thing.

 

[bholler]

Cancelled the Buck, too much confusing information, starting from scratch.
But there will not be any stoves out there by late summer because, so not dilly dallying
Looking for bolt down, outside air, thinking heating capacity of twice the 1,000 living space for very cold once in a 100 year cold spell, I live in Maine. Non-cat!
Platform or legs?
Firebox size or BTU's, is there a way to put a finger on heating output with a overnight burning time?
In checking other threads here found the name Drolet.
Viewed a picture of crispy studs here, trailers going up like a Roman candle is a real thing.

What was too confusing?

 

[kborndale]

Get your wood split and stacked yesterday, you're already late on that aspect and you will be unhappy with any modern stove since you will be burning subpar wood in the fall.

 

[begreen]

Most Drolet , Regency, and Pacific Energy stoves will work ok on a shorter flue system. They can be a good choice for a mobile home.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

What was too confusing?

First, the stove ordered did not come with legs. They were also out of stock.
That got me questioning if I chose the correct stove. Yes, I could have a base fabricated.
Then, does the stove put out enough heat? Combustion Efficient? Spaces for clearance (viewed that pic of charred studs here on Hearth.com), not likely on my part but a valid concern.
I believe, because a woodstove sales person told me, numbers posted by manufacturers' or sales outlets are not always accurate. If so, a choice made on inaccurate specifications would not be smart.
General rule of thumb for me, if not comfortable with a purchase do not buy it.

 

[bholler]

First, the stove ordered did not come with legs. They were also out of stock.
That got me questioning if I chose the correct stove. Yes, I could have a base fabricated.
Then, does the stove put out enough heat? Combustion Efficient? Spaces for clearance (viewed that pic of charred studs here on Hearth.com), not likely on my part but a valid concern.
I believe, because a woodstove sales person told me, numbers posted by manufacturers' or sales outlets are not always accurate. If so, a choice made on inaccurate specifications would not be smart.
General rule of thumb for me, if not comfortable with a purchase do not buy it.

Clearances posted by manufacturers are all tested and verified to be safe.

Yes many stoves you will have to buy legs or bases separately. That is nothing complicated.

As far as putting out enough heat we can't answer that for you. Look at how many BTUs you used to heat the space previously that will give you an idea of what you need.

When it comes to combustion efficiency all stoves on the market now are very good. You really won't notice any difference in efficency between them

 

[begreen]

Look for a stove with about a 2-2.5 cu ft firebox. Leg or pedestal base options are a matter of aesthetics. More important will be how the stove loads. Some have shallower fireboxes than others. I have a strong preference for a stove that loads N/S. This allows one to load the firebox to capacity. That is hard to do with a shallow firebox. They must load E/W which means that one needs to be careful not to load to the point where a log could roll up against the glass at some point as the fire burns down.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Thanks, yes, was overthinking, head hurt. The Buck had a 1.6 cu ft fire box, the main reason I deleted it.
Ordered one with the included pedestal base and the optional outside air. TN20 Series B with a 2 cu ft fire box.
Checked, rather read, the factory installation manual for the model to be sure.
Insurance company requires a UL listing photo. Check.
Northcountryfire.com checked inventory answered all my questions and gave me a veterans discount.
Appreciate all your help.
Still some pieces to order but it is time to 'Get off'n my butt and git to log sawin' and a butt cracking.'

 

[begreen]

The PE True North TN 20 is a good value stove and a N/S loader. It should get the job done. It's a good choice for a mobile home. The flue system minimum height requirement from stovetop to chimney cap is 12'.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

The PE True North TN 20 is a good value stove and a N/S loader. It should get the job done. It's a good choice for a mobile home. The flue system minimum height requirement from stovetop to chimney cap is 12'.

Thanks, where did you find the 12' minimum?
You are a dig deeper.
Thanks

 

[begreen]

It's in the manual. At least it's in my version from about 2018.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

It's in the manual. At least it's in my version from about 2018.

Thanks,
Checked the manual as well, it is the same, 12'.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Installed, finally, did a break in burn, brought it up to temperature.
Whooo, that baby cranks out the heat. Melted the coconut oil in the cupboard. Dog woke me up panting with windows open both ends of the house. It just kept putting out heat, even the next day.
No temperature regulator, manually adjustable vent, overlooked that feature.
Going to re-split the wood smaller

 

[bholler]

Installed, finally, did a break in burn, brought it up to temperature.
Whooo, that baby cranks out the heat. Melted the coconut oil in the cupboard. Dog woke me up panting with windows open both ends of the house. It just kept putting out heat, even the next day.
No temperature regulator, manually adjustable vent, overlooked that feature.
Going to re-split the wood smaller

Most stoves are controlled by a manually controlled vent. And smaller splits will put out more heat because of the increased surface area

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Most stoves are controlled by a manually controlled vent. And smaller splits will put out more heat because of the increased surface area

Yes, good point.
Was carried away in trying to get the stove hot, over did it, apparently a pretty efficient stove. Getting a feel for this TN 20 might take a few burns.
Should be good when it is 20 below (-29C) though.

 

[begreen]

Try a partial load next time of 4-5 splits. Remember to start turning down the air incrementally as the fire starts burning well.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Try a partial load next time of 4-5 splits. Remember to start turning down the air incrementally as the fire starts burning well.

Like a kid with a new set of wheels, got a little heavy footed.
Splitting next years wood now, trying to get a good mix for the spring and fall, then winter heavy duty chunks.
Going to check around the forum to get a feel from the more experienced members.

 

[begreen]

Instrumentation helps a lot. In addition to the stovetop thermometer, a good stovepipe thermometer is a valuable tool for knowing how the burn is going.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

Stove thermometer and heat activated fan arrived today.
Great tips, thanks.