Welcome. What was the old stove that the Buck is being compared to? It sounds like you want more heat and longer burn times. Is there a reason you got the smallest Buck?
New owner and Buck stove woes
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- buck stove model 19
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Welcome. What was the old stove that the Buck is being compared to? It sounds like you want more heat and longer burn times. Is there a reason you got the smallest Buck?
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Stove came with the house BG. That's why there's a question about the install and possible occlusions etc.
Thanks, I didn't backtrack the whole thread on my phone. Back home now.
Yeah, this stove does not have the capacity of the old all nighter. The previous owners may have chosen this insert as the best fit, or maybe the dealer recommended it? Who knows?
Yeah, this stove does not have the capacity of the old all nighter. The previous owners may have chosen this insert as the best fit, or maybe the dealer recommended it? Who knows?
Thanks for being so helpful guys.
I got wrangled into cooking for a group yesterday and we travel for the holiday today so sorry if my response time is slow
Kenny- not on legs or pedestal. My best assessment is that there used to be a gas fireplace which was replaced with this insert and they put the stainless liner in at the same time. I say because there was a gas hookup there that is capped and valved off nearby
Jetsam- good suggestion with 2x4 that will be a post Christmas experiment.
I removed the mesh already when I cleaned the chimney, what a joke. It was so fine if a mesh and it was clogged pretty heavily.
I need to shop around but I liked my old stainless diamond cute topper at the old house ( wrong size for here)
Jatoxico- I may be confused or receiving your message incorrectly. The damper function rod is on the right exterior of the stove. When I move that the blocker plate for airflow moves which is under the little ash catcher tray in the front. The way it was described to me by buck was that air gets distributed between the main mesh/ shot gun air and then the secondary air.
I will try and get you pics
There is no blanket above the baffle? Is it just loose fitting or how is it secured? Mine has tubes and a plate then the entry to the flue .That’s it
Double suggestion on 2x4- will do after holidays
Woody- the fire kind of roars with the door open. It picks up a little and can take off really well, other times it snuffs out. ( we may be back to wet wood measurement and I am too stupid to not acknowledge that). We just removed the baffle plate and cleaned the chimney two weeks ago. Could see from top to bottom afterwards no issue. Is that what you meant? I can try looking with a mirror later but it was squeaky clean not long ago
Pics- I am waiting on it to die and cool down. Will get you the autopsy pics then. Holiday stuff and I wanted to use the burner when I can. I can get you pics though no issue
air inlets- yes one slider to rule them all. The primary air as I all it is centered right in front of the door welded in the fire bow. Mesh screen. I have taken a wire brush and cleaned it, then compressed air and blew into the channels. I may take a price or stiff wire and shove into the ports and verify no obstruction
Secondary ingnition- I have seen a baby version of this but it was like a best case scenario for this stove and current condition not typical. My old one could get a roaring fire like that no issue which is what I am used to. That looks like burning a lot of wood but also like it is working well ( having that how much is the doggy in the window syndrome after seeing that video)
Kenny-I will try and take some pics maybe they will be helpful in ensuring we are saying the same thing. It may be pedestal mounted I just don’t know much about putting burners where a fireplace was. I am used to dedicated exposed burners.
Bholler- talk dumber to me please. I don’t know what you mean by the prefab chimney? I believe they put the stainless liner in when they did the switch from gas fireplace to wood burning insert . Does that answer the question?
I got wrangled into cooking for a group yesterday and we travel for the holiday today so sorry if my response time is slow
Kenny- not on legs or pedestal. My best assessment is that there used to be a gas fireplace which was replaced with this insert and they put the stainless liner in at the same time. I say because there was a gas hookup there that is capped and valved off nearby
Jetsam- good suggestion with 2x4 that will be a post Christmas experiment.
I removed the mesh already when I cleaned the chimney, what a joke. It was so fine if a mesh and it was clogged pretty heavily.
I need to shop around but I liked my old stainless diamond cute topper at the old house ( wrong size for here)
Jatoxico- I may be confused or receiving your message incorrectly. The damper function rod is on the right exterior of the stove. When I move that the blocker plate for airflow moves which is under the little ash catcher tray in the front. The way it was described to me by buck was that air gets distributed between the main mesh/ shot gun air and then the secondary air.
I will try and get you pics
There is no blanket above the baffle? Is it just loose fitting or how is it secured? Mine has tubes and a plate then the entry to the flue .That’s it
Double suggestion on 2x4- will do after holidays
Woody- the fire kind of roars with the door open. It picks up a little and can take off really well, other times it snuffs out. ( we may be back to wet wood measurement and I am too stupid to not acknowledge that). We just removed the baffle plate and cleaned the chimney two weeks ago. Could see from top to bottom afterwards no issue. Is that what you meant? I can try looking with a mirror later but it was squeaky clean not long ago
Pics- I am waiting on it to die and cool down. Will get you the autopsy pics then. Holiday stuff and I wanted to use the burner when I can. I can get you pics though no issue
air inlets- yes one slider to rule them all. The primary air as I all it is centered right in front of the door welded in the fire bow. Mesh screen. I have taken a wire brush and cleaned it, then compressed air and blew into the channels. I may take a price or stiff wire and shove into the ports and verify no obstruction
Secondary ingnition- I have seen a baby version of this but it was like a best case scenario for this stove and current condition not typical. My old one could get a roaring fire like that no issue which is what I am used to. That looks like burning a lot of wood but also like it is working well ( having that how much is the doggy in the window syndrome after seeing that video)
Kenny-I will try and take some pics maybe they will be helpful in ensuring we are saying the same thing. It may be pedestal mounted I just don’t know much about putting burners where a fireplace was. I am used to dedicated exposed burners.
Bholler- talk dumber to me please. I don’t know what you mean by the prefab chimney? I believe they put the stainless liner in when they did the switch from gas fireplace to wood burning insert . Does that answer the question?
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
The diagram is kind of hard for me to interpret, but it seems like the insulation blanket should be on top of the stainless baffle plate, which is directly above the tubes..?? When you removed the baffle plate to clean the chimney, you did not see the insulation blanket, correct? The insulation blanket is necessary for the secondary burn to work properly..it keeps the temp high near the tubes. Without it, the secondary burn will be weak.
You may want to call Buckstove again to confirm what you are supposed to have there.
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jatoxico
Minister of Fire
See pg 16 of the manual. There is supposed to be an insulation blanket above the "plate" (baffle) where the air tubes are. Your problem does sound like wet wood but for those stoves that use an insulation blanket they are needed for heat retention and secondary burn.
As far as the air control on the right that is (I'm pretty sure) the primary air control and just wanting to know if its working. Occasionally someone will find the mechanism is not working and the primary air is closed. With a load of lumber scraps to eliminate wet wood as a variable you should see a noticeable change in the fire when operating the air control.
Edit @Woody Stover too quick for me!
Stealthdude I mentioned the blanket because sometimes they get bunched up and block air flow which could have explained your sluggish performance. The other common thing is they deteriorate or...an owner with wet wood blames the blanket and discards it trying to get back his/her old smoke dragon.
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kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
he's one of the best and is a professional installer.
velvetfoot
Minister of Fire
5 gals of chimney brushings seems a lot. Maybe it was for more than one year.
I'm looking at the manual too. Everybody seems to be the one to solve the problem, lol.
Is there an outside air kit installed? If so, maybe something's blocking the air path.
To rule out the obvious, per manual:
Primary Air Control:
The primary air intake draft control is located at right bottom side of hearth. It is operated by moving handle out to open (to allow air into firebox) or in,to control or close off air into firebox. (See Figure 4).
I'm looking at the manual too. Everybody seems to be the one to solve the problem, lol.
Is there an outside air kit installed? If so, maybe something's blocking the air path.
To rule out the obvious, per manual:
Primary Air Control:
The primary air intake draft control is located at right bottom side of hearth. It is operated by moving handle out to open (to allow air into firebox) or in,to control or close off air into firebox. (See Figure 4).
Kenny- haha sorry if that came out wrong. I was trying to be funny as in I didn’t understand what he was telling me. Just asking for a reword is all. My mistake I was trying to be an ass I promise
Damper works from my assessment. It can shut it down with it closed or encourage burning when opening if it is already burning well
We have found something important. There is certainly no blanket. I will investigate and try to get one in place then repeat the simulation
Thanks for good suggestions guys I will report back in a week or so if I can get a blanket
Damper works from my assessment. It can shut it down with it closed or encourage burning when opening if it is already burning well
We have found something important. There is certainly no blanket. I will investigate and try to get one in place then repeat the simulation
Thanks for good suggestions guys I will report back in a week or so if I can get a blanket
I didn't take it disrespectfuly at all. But you don't seem to know the answers i need to move forward.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
@Stealthdude the question holler asked is do you have a full existing firebox and masonry chimney (brick and mortar) or is it a steel box with a metal chimney built in a chase and covered with siding or something. As we said pics would help.
I'd also like to know how it was installed. Even with your (more than likely) wet wood you may be losing a whole lot of heat if the system was not insulated well enough. Ideally you can add a block off plate.
I'd also like to know how it was installed. Even with your (more than likely) wet wood you may be losing a whole lot of heat if the system was not insulated well enough. Ideally you can add a block off plate.
Got it sorry I missed answering that one. At my parents still traveling... so no pics yet but I will when we get home before I fire it up
There is the stove, it has brick around it on the interior portion. It has a stainless liner that is housed inside wooden chimney structure and then vinyl siding on outside. I do not remember seeing any clay liner structure
I can’t get access inside to see much else with the weather and the way it is built I do not see any access panels yet ( only been there since mid October)
Jatoxico- the baffle plate above the secondary burners is intact. My understanding is I need to add the insulation blanket on top of that plate also ( looks like 1/4” plate steel).
There is the stove, it has brick around it on the interior portion. It has a stainless liner that is housed inside wooden chimney structure and then vinyl siding on outside. I do not remember seeing any clay liner structure
I can’t get access inside to see much else with the weather and the way it is built I do not see any access panels yet ( only been there since mid October)
Jatoxico- the baffle plate above the secondary burners is intact. My understanding is I need to add the insulation blanket on top of that plate also ( looks like 1/4” plate steel).
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
I think that answers the question about the firebox and chimney construction.
I understand about the baffle plate and that you are missing the blanket. What I'm talking bout is insulating the top of the firebox so that heat from the stove does not escape by going around and up the chimney or possibly chase in your case.
Based on your post about the construction I'd say pictures and more info are in order.
Good deal. I thought I saw some fire brick up there but I will check again. Let’s circle back again tonight hopefully with pics
Two more questions as food for thought and so I become educated
Would you anticipate using the damper position at anything less than wide open ( making sure dampering it down is an anticipated and acceptable behavior to try and create longer overnight but times)? I used to damp my non epa down and no issue, would still have flame and generate heat; I just want to verify that is ok for this thing also.
When damped down should I be seeing secondary flames ? ( presently I do not but it may need cleaned, I intend to give another good cleaning before I build a fire later)
Can you explain the air wash system? I can’t see it on the diagram, nor do I fully know the intended function. From what I read it creates an air barrier somehow but where?
Would you anticipate using the damper position at anything less than wide open ( making sure dampering it down is an anticipated and acceptable behavior to try and create longer overnight but times)? I used to damp my non epa down and no issue, would still have flame and generate heat; I just want to verify that is ok for this thing also.
When damped down should I be seeing secondary flames ? ( presently I do not but it may need cleaned, I intend to give another good cleaning before I build a fire later)
Can you explain the air wash system? I can’t see it on the diagram, nor do I fully know the intended function. From what I read it creates an air barrier somehow but where?
This stove does not have a damper. By damper, do you mean the air control? After the fire is burning well, start turning down the air. With dry wood this can be in as little as 10 minutes. Turn it down maybe halfway until the flame starts getting lazy. Then wait for the fire to regain strength. Once it is burning strong again, turn it down another 50% or more until the flames get lazy again and secondary combustion is evident.
This video may be helpful. It's not a Buck stove but the principal is the same.
This video may be helpful. It's not a Buck stove but the principal is the same.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
I think you'll see more secondaries when you get the baffle set up as it should be, with the insulation...IF your wood is dry enough.
Primary air enters the stove and is ducted to up above the door and enters the fire box there "washing" down over the glass to keep it clean.
You really need to find out how the stove is installed. If it is just running through an old zero clearance fireplaces chimney it could be very dangerous. Even having the insert in a fireplace not meant for an insert could be an issue.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
The baffle must also be positioned correctly so that the smoke is forced to travel past the tubes and around the front end of the baffle, not through any gaps at the sides or the back of the baffle.
Begreen good video.
I wonder if I may be self influcting pain by loading everything east west? The firebox very deep so north south may not be feasible with my current wood length, but that’s the only way I ever loaded my old one.
With the buck having the small shotgun air inlet I am
Wondering if it can’t air supply to the fuel effectively when stacked east west?
Any thoughts or am I clinging to fabricated dreams?
Pics when I get sunlight this morning.
Got it I think the air wash system may or may not be in place as designed. Pics will reveal that but my guess is it has been tampered with
Hi Bholler. I will take some pics this AM and upload for the group. Any specific I can take a pic of for you? There is a lot of expanded mesh I haven’t spent a lot of time thinking about how to take apart Good news it is matte black so I can see through it easy enough
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
If that's a problem, you can stack the bottom N-S, then go E-W on top of that. Or you can run a trench N-S in the coals, then load E-W on top of that. Flame will go down the trench, under the load, and get it burning nicely.
Or just lay a couple shorter 'sleepers' N/S about 4" apart on the bottom, then stack E/W on top of that.
If you can, do try a load N/S with some good dry wood so that you can see the difference.
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