New splitter auto-stop VERY sticky, not working

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brider

Member
Jun 13, 2008
121
New Haven, CT
I just bought a sweet 22-ton Splitter at Tractor Supply, the Husky model, made by Speeco(?) I believe.

Works great, but the actuation lever sticks in the "up" position so tightly that it rarely kicks back to neutral when the ram is all the way up, and I end up leaping back to the splitter over log sections to manually flip it before the engine stalls or a hydralic hose blows.

The plunger that the lever actuates enters the valve body thru a "cap" on the valve body that is only held on by 2 bolts, I'm tempted to remove these bolts and see if the plunger will come out, and take a look at it.

Is there anything I can do from that end? I assume the auto shut-off action comes from a pressure ramp-up that kicks the plunger out, I'm just wondering if it's controlled by a spring/ball detent mechanism or something.

Even when the machine is off, the lever is a b_tch to pull back down to neutral from the "up" position.

I've sprayed teflon lube all over the plunger shaft, no effect. Seriously increases my logsplitting time, having to wait within arm's reach every cycle.
 

burntime

New Member
Aug 18, 2006
2,395
C'mon hunting season!
I have the spee co badged one and never had the problem. If you tackle it make sure its not running and cycle the lever so that there is no chance of preasure. If you just bought it I would just run it back. Don't want them to claim that you voided the warrantee or anything goofy...
 

Jags

Moderate Moderator
Staff member
Aug 2, 2006
18,209
Northern IL
The auto return detent pressure should be adjustable. That being said - being new, I would consider running it back to the store before I get busy with tools. Ya don't wanna void the warranty in case something really IS wrong with it.
 

brider

Member
Jun 13, 2008
121
New Haven, CT
Yeah, I know I should run it back to the dealer, but that's about 1 1/2 hrs away, and I REALLY don't have the time for that. If it's adjustable, I'd just as soon find a service manual and do it myself.
 

triptester

Feeling the Heat
Aug 25, 2006
364
S.E.Wisconsin
There is an adjustment under the cap at the back of the valve, but care must be taken as this screw as it is Loctited in place. There is a relief valve built into the control valve that should bypass before the engine stalls and the engine will stall before hoses burst.

If you want accurate answers contact Carolyn at [email protected] or 1-800-525-8322 X 146
 

Jags

Moderate Moderator
Staff member
Aug 2, 2006
18,209
Northern IL
brider said:
Yeah, I know I should run it back to the dealer, but that's about 1 1/2 hrs away, and I REALLY don't have the time for that. If it's adjustable, I'd just as soon find a service manual and do it myself.
Well then, as Triptester stated, there should be an adjustment under the cap, at the back end of the valve.
The best and most true method to adjust the auto return is with a pressure gauge, and then set the return at about 600 psi, but I realize that many people don't have the required stuff sitting on the shelf for this method.

The engine does not even need to be running to test your adjustments. Lock the handle into the return position and manually pull it back into center position. Note the force used. Start your adjustment in small increments while re-testing the resistance until it takes just a small "snap" to pop it into center. Now start up the engine and give it a try.
 

brider

Member
Jun 13, 2008
121
New Haven, CT
Jags:

I like your method-

I have noted to myself the EXCESSIVE force needed to manually move the lever back to neutral from "retract", so I'll check under the cap you guys mentioned and try to reduce that effort, and see if it works. This is the kind of stuff I don't mind tinkering on..., simple, open, not rocket science.

Thanks!
 

slayer7

Member
Oct 20, 2008
95
CT
Is that the TSC in Danbury? How much are those splitters going for there?
 

brider

Member
Jun 13, 2008
121
New Haven, CT
I got it at the TSC in New Milford, is that the one near Danbury? There was a sale on the splitters, and the New Milford dealer was the closest to my work, which took a LOOOONG lunch hour to get there.

$999 plus tax, best deal I've seen yet.
 

triptester

Feeling the Heat
Aug 25, 2006
364
S.E.Wisconsin
A member on ArboristSite forum just strated a thread today on a sticky valve on his newer Speeco splitter . He was able to solve the problem by removing the cap at the rear of the valve and appling some grease to the ball in the detent.
 

brider

Member
Jun 13, 2008
121
New Haven, CT
So it IS a ball-detent mechanism!!

Thanks for the link, you guys are great!

Now I just need to find the TIME to split all my wood...1/2 hr at a time will put me somewhere at, oh, December until I get it all done...
 

slayer7

Member
Oct 20, 2008
95
CT
brider said:
I got it at the TSC in New Milford, is that the one near Danbury? There was a sale on the splitters, and the New Milford dealer was the closest to my work, which took a LOOOONG lunch hour to get there.

$999 plus tax, best deal I've seen yet.
Yeah...that's the one. Lol, that must have been a long lunch hour.
 

Hurricane

Minister of Fire
Feb 18, 2009
565
Central NJ
Is that sale at all TSC stores ? I was going to take my dad to get one tomorrow, I guess I could just call TSC.

Did that include any coupon or the sale was 999 ? Some guys said they also got a 10% coupon that I am looking for now.

Thanks
 

kgreer

New Member
Jun 24, 2009
17
Colorado
brider said:
I just bought a sweet 22-ton Splitter at Tractor Supply, the Husky model, made by Speeco(?) I believe.

Works great, but the actuation lever sticks in the "up" position so tightly that it rarely kicks back to neutral when the ram is all the way up, and I end up leaping back to the splitter over log sections to manually flip it before the engine stalls or a hydralic hose blows.

The plunger that the lever actuates enters the valve body thru a "cap" on the valve body that is only held on by 2 bolts, I'm tempted to remove these bolts and see if the plunger will come out, and take a look at it.

Is there anything I can do from that end? I assume the auto shut-off action comes from a pressure ramp-up that kicks the plunger out, I'm just wondering if it's controlled by a spring/ball detent mechanism or something.

Even when the machine is off, the lever is a b_tch to pull back down to neutral from the "up" position.

I've sprayed teflon lube all over the plunger shaft, no effect. Seriously increases my logsplitting time, having to wait within arm's reach every cycle.
I would not remove the detent assembly if I were you. There is not an adjustment that can be made to the detent. It is preset at the factory. While there is an adjustment screw in the valve, it is for the setting the pressure relief in the control valve and will not adjust the detent assembly. SpeeCo would be willing to replace the defective valve under warranty if you would like to bring the splitter and your receipt to the dealer where you purchased it. They will order a new valve from us and have it installed for you.

Thanks
 

Jags

Moderate Moderator
Staff member
Aug 2, 2006
18,209
Northern IL
Speecotech said:
brider said:
I just bought a sweet 22-ton Splitter at Tractor Supply, the Husky model, made by Speeco(?) I believe.

Works great, but the actuation lever sticks in the "up" position so tightly that it rarely kicks back to neutral when the ram is all the way up, and I end up leaping back to the splitter over log sections to manually flip it before the engine stalls or a hydralic hose blows.

The plunger that the lever actuates enters the valve body thru a "cap" on the valve body that is only held on by 2 bolts, I'm tempted to remove these bolts and see if the plunger will come out, and take a look at it.

Is there anything I can do from that end? I assume the auto shut-off action comes from a pressure ramp-up that kicks the plunger out, I'm just wondering if it's controlled by a spring/ball detent mechanism or something.

Even when the machine is off, the lever is a b_tch to pull back down to neutral from the "up" position.

I've sprayed teflon lube all over the plunger shaft, no effect. Seriously increases my logsplitting time, having to wait within arm's reach every cycle.
I would not remove the detent assembly if I were you. There is not an adjustment that can be made to the detent. It is preset at the factory. While there is an adjustment screw in the valve, it is for the setting the pressure relief in the control valve and will not adjust the detent assembly. SpeeCo would be willing to replace the defective valve under warranty if you would like to bring the splitter and your receipt to the dealer where you purchased it. They will order a new valve from us and have it installed for you.

Thanks
What kind of valve does the speeco use? My valve (aftermarket) does have a detent adjustment.
 

triptester

Feeling the Heat
Aug 25, 2006
364
S.E.Wisconsin
(What kind of valve does the speeco use? My valve (aftermarket) does have a detent adjustment. )





I was just at a Farm and Fleet store , so I went and looked at the splitters. I found that the control valves do vary from the other similar looking splitter valves on the market. There is no plug on the side of the valve for relief adjustment. So I must assume the relief adjustment is at the back of the valve, I have not had one apart yet so this is only a guess.

Speeco and the MTD brands have the lion's share of the splitter market which may enable them to purchase built to spec components due to large volume.
 
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