New stove!

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After reading the manual and examining the specified thermometer, I've decided the excessively high temps are a translation error and they meant 300 - 450 f.
 

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can you put splits in that little cubby hole on top to help dry them? Pretty cool stove
 
The viewing window may be small, but it does offer a great view!
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Now why the hell would you think that I would condone clearance issues that could be dangerous to people. Thats why I posted that, so someone could critique it. It looked close to me, but Im not the expert here.
Because you were making fun of those of us who point out clearance issues.
 
can you put splits in that little cubby hole on top to help dry them? Pretty cool stove
Yeah they would dry out real fast before they burst into flames.
 
can you put splits in that little cubby hole on top to help dry them? Pretty cool stove

I don't think I will try that. The surface in the middle of the cubby is a cook top though. I am going to put a kettle there for coffee.
 
Wow that's quite a change in capacity, I am surprised the wood cut for the Defiant would fit.
Yep, it's a few sizes down from the VC but it will take a 20" split, I think.
soap stone! We considered it, but we prefer the cast iron.
And it has gasketed seams, so should be easy to completely tear down and rebuild, I'd think.
i am guessing that the exhaust gases pass up the sides and then into the flue pipe there by draining some more radiant heat out of the system?
Yeah, and you can dry wood up there! ;lol No, don't do that! :oops:
Keep us posted on how it works for you, burn times, wood consumption etc... aaand pics! We love pics!
Yep, it'll be interesting to hear how it heats overnight, with the small box. You may be fine upstairs in the bedroom, with the heat rising up there.
I'm also curious to hear how the grated ash-handling works. I have a small fire box stove as well..the smaller the box, the more you need to be able to stir the ashes down with a poker to make more room in the box for a reload.
 
The viewing window may be small, but it does offer a great view!
Secondaries look strong. What stove top temp is that yielding?
 
Secondaries look strong. What stove top temp is that yielding?

That went to 600 cook top (in between the ducts), but flue temp was still only 200 8" above the top plate. Im a little confused by this. North Winds Stove included a Condar stop top thermometer, and we already had the 1975 Condar that was on the old stove flue when we moved in. Is the thermometer off? I'm not quite sure how this stove wants to run yet as I've only loaded it with two splits at a time for now.


I do know the small firebox will not yield an overnight burn. We knew it would require an overnight refill, but that's ok with us. The wife has a small bladder, and I'm medically retired army, it's no big deal for us.

Earlier when the first few splits burned down, but before I reloaded the stove, I rattled the grate with the rod coming out the front. I of course did this when installing of course. So far, so good. Also, I discovered that if the draft is tough to get going, close the door, and crack the ash pan door. That makes it almost a direct draft stove and it will make the embers ignite whatever is above the hole for the grate. I think this system will work very well.

So far, the stove has been easy. I put a kettle on the burner to help with the noxious fumes of the stove paint curing. We also have a door cracked with a vent fan going along with a lot of incense!
 
That went to 600 cook top (in between the ducts), but flue temp was still only 200 8" above the top plate. Im a little confused by this. North Winds Stove included a Condar stop top thermometer, and we already had the 1975 Condar that was on the old stove flue when we moved in. Is the thermometer off? I'm not quite sure how this stove wants to run yet as I've only loaded it with two splits at a time for now.


I do know the small firebox will not yield an overnight burn. We knew it would require an overnight refill, but that's ok with us. The wife has a small bladder, and I'm medically retired army, it's no big deal for us.

Earlier when the first few splits burned down, but before I reloaded the stove, I rattled the grate with the rod coming out the front. I of course did this when installing of course. So far, so good. Also, I discovered that if the draft is tough to get going, close the door, and crack the ash pan door. That makes it almost a direct draft stove and it will make the embers ignite whatever is above the hole for the grate. I think this system will work very well.

So far, the stove has been easy. I put a kettle on the burner to help with the noxious fumes of the stove paint curing. We also have a door cracked with a vent fan going along with a lot of incense!
Do not use the ashpan that way you will destroy your new stove. Stick the stove pipe thermometer next to the pipe thermometer to see if they match.
 
Unbelievable, you could come up with something like that.
No it’s not unbelievable actually, I had the same feeling as bholler. Of course using the term “clearance police” was offensive. Let’s stop the pretending here.
 
That went to 600 cook top (in between the ducts), but flue temp was still only 200 8" above the top plate. Im a little confused by this....I discovered that if the draft is tough to get going, close the door, and crack the ash pan door.
That may well be true, if the upper section grabs a lot of heat off the exhaust before it gets to the pipe.
bholler is right, it's dangerous to use the ash door to accelerate the fire. If you do it, don't open the door far at all, and stay right there closing it every 10-15 seconds. Using the ash door can yield forge-like temps in the bottom for your stove, and crack cast iron parts.
 
Do not use the ashpan that way you will destroy your new stove. Stick the stove pipe thermometer next to the pipe thermometer to see if they match.

Thank you for the heads up. I won't be doing that anymore
 
Hey, wait a minute, is that an air vent on the ash pan door?? _g
 
Hey, wait a minute, is that an air vent on the ash pan door?? _g
Yes but it is probably not operable. many morosos are dual fuel in Europe so they need the bottom intake for coal. But if it is operable I'd say use it.
 
I'm up to a 3/4 load now. Probably only burned eight small splits since 4 pm. It's 10 outside and 70 in here not running it very hard, maybe at half of what it is capable of. I'm trying to keep it around 300 on the flue and that's keeping it comfortable in here.

Now, I'm a little concerned about how hot the cook plate is at 300 f flue temp. How hot is too hot? The Condar flue thermometer that was here when we moved in reads identical to the brand new stove top Condar. The stove top is reading over700, but flue is 300. The manual says 300-450 is normal operating range, but it just seems weird to me.
 

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I'm up to a 3/4 load now. Probably only burned eight small splits since 4 pm. It's 10 outside and 70 in here not running it very hard, maybe at half of what it is capable of. I'm trying to keep it around 300 on the flue and that's keeping it comfortable in here.

Now, I'm a little concerned about how hot the cook plate is at 300 f flue temp. How hot is too hot? The Condar flue thermometer that was here when we moved in reads identical to the brand new stove top Condar. The stove top is reading over 1000, but flue is 300. The manual says 300-450 is normal operating range, but it just seems weird to me.
Like i said they extract allot of heat the stove is going to be really hot to keep the flue temps up. That is why many stoves similar to this make so much creosote.
 
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Like i said they extract allot of heat the stove is going to be really hot to keep the flue temps up. That is why many stoves similar to this make so much creosote.

I just wanted to be sure this was a safe mode of operation. Wouldn't the secondaries also burn off the majority of creosote without keeping the flue as hot?
 
You can shut it back a bit. What type and size of chimney is this running into
 
I just wanted to be sure this was a safe mode of operation. Wouldn't the secondaries also burn off the majority of creosote without keeping the flue as hot?
The secondaries burn off allot but if your flue gasses drop below 212 before exiting the chimney before the final stage of combustion you will get creosote buildup.
 
You can shut it back a bit. What type and size of chimney is this running into

It's an 8x8 clay flue tile liner in a masonry chimney. 6" single wall running into a plug to fit our 8" thimble.