I've gained from this forum reading and am paying back as best I can on my experiences with the Thelin Parlor Pellet. I put in this stove in 2005 and have burned about 3 tons per year in it since then. I have replaced the ignitor rod once, and the blower fan assembly twice.
The ignitor burned out after about 4 or 5 years. Not too hard to replace. If it won't light and the rod isn't hot that is the likely problem. Not too hard to replace.
The blower on mine started getting loud after about 3 years (9 tons). Especially loud on low, with a whistling sound. The blower replacement fixed it and made it very quiet, but a bit pricey and not too easy to do as you have to tilt the stove over and work from underneath. The blower assembly is silicon rubber sealed in. Comes out with some vice grips after getting the three holding bolts out. When I replaced the blower assembly the first time I bought the entire replacement assembly and removed the old one. I took the old one apart and found that the Pittman motor bearings and brushes were worn out. I bought new bearings on ebay. The bearings on both the old and the newer model fan that I have are
R4A-2RS Bearing Sealed 1/4"x3/4"x9/32" Ball Bearings
I bought the Nachi Japan bearings hoping they will be more durable. I got the brushes from the local Thelin dealer, there may be other sources, not sure, pipe in if you know of them.
To rebuild the motor you have to remove the fan assembly and the fan that is in the smoke will be hard to get the allen set screw out on. I soaked mine in penetrating oil for several days and then had to heat the area with a propane torch to get the set screw to release. I don't think this is to big of a deal as this section of the fan lives in the smoke discharge all the time. Take the fan and then the lower mounting bracket off. There is a second cooling fan that has a set screw as well. remember the orientation of the cooling fan as it can be installed either way and it should remain factory. Once all of the fans are off of the motor, remove the brushes under the electrical connections by uncrewing the plastic slotted holders. Pull the brushes out. you will find two Phillips head screws on the end of the motor. Take these all the way out. Carefully remove the motor end cap, don't let the spacer washers fall off the shaft as they have an order and you may have several to take up end play. You will find the R4A-2RS bearings on either end of the motor. Pull the case off the motor. Blow out the motor, don't breathe the dust. Tap out and pull off the existing bearings and replace them with new bearings using good mechanical procedures that do not put loads across the race. On one end you will need to remember the pressed in distance on the shaft and get close to that. You can tap this bearing down using a small copper pipe or other pipe that only hits the inner race on the bearing. On the other end the bearing is lightly pressed into the end cap. Once the bearings are replaced, re-assemble the motor case, cap and screws and install new brushes.
My rebuilt fan is running just fine for a couple weeks now and is very quiet. I'm going to rebuild the replacement unit that is now out.
I'm guessing that you can get about 2 or 3 rebuild cycles out of the motor before the armature copper is too worn down to work, then you will likely need a new motor.
If you know of a source to buy these motors please let us know. Would be nice to get the motor alone with out the fans to save some bucks.
On mine the motor and brush part numbers are here:
Pittman
# 14203C708-R6
12 VDC
12-02-10
Dyn Balanced
Ametek Technical & Industrial Products
Fan Assembly Thelin Old PN 43000-120 New PN 00-0005-0009
Brushes Thelin Old PN 43000-34 New PN 00-0035-0042
Best,
Jethro
The ignitor burned out after about 4 or 5 years. Not too hard to replace. If it won't light and the rod isn't hot that is the likely problem. Not too hard to replace.
The blower on mine started getting loud after about 3 years (9 tons). Especially loud on low, with a whistling sound. The blower replacement fixed it and made it very quiet, but a bit pricey and not too easy to do as you have to tilt the stove over and work from underneath. The blower assembly is silicon rubber sealed in. Comes out with some vice grips after getting the three holding bolts out. When I replaced the blower assembly the first time I bought the entire replacement assembly and removed the old one. I took the old one apart and found that the Pittman motor bearings and brushes were worn out. I bought new bearings on ebay. The bearings on both the old and the newer model fan that I have are
R4A-2RS Bearing Sealed 1/4"x3/4"x9/32" Ball Bearings
I bought the Nachi Japan bearings hoping they will be more durable. I got the brushes from the local Thelin dealer, there may be other sources, not sure, pipe in if you know of them.
To rebuild the motor you have to remove the fan assembly and the fan that is in the smoke will be hard to get the allen set screw out on. I soaked mine in penetrating oil for several days and then had to heat the area with a propane torch to get the set screw to release. I don't think this is to big of a deal as this section of the fan lives in the smoke discharge all the time. Take the fan and then the lower mounting bracket off. There is a second cooling fan that has a set screw as well. remember the orientation of the cooling fan as it can be installed either way and it should remain factory. Once all of the fans are off of the motor, remove the brushes under the electrical connections by uncrewing the plastic slotted holders. Pull the brushes out. you will find two Phillips head screws on the end of the motor. Take these all the way out. Carefully remove the motor end cap, don't let the spacer washers fall off the shaft as they have an order and you may have several to take up end play. You will find the R4A-2RS bearings on either end of the motor. Pull the case off the motor. Blow out the motor, don't breathe the dust. Tap out and pull off the existing bearings and replace them with new bearings using good mechanical procedures that do not put loads across the race. On one end you will need to remember the pressed in distance on the shaft and get close to that. You can tap this bearing down using a small copper pipe or other pipe that only hits the inner race on the bearing. On the other end the bearing is lightly pressed into the end cap. Once the bearings are replaced, re-assemble the motor case, cap and screws and install new brushes.
My rebuilt fan is running just fine for a couple weeks now and is very quiet. I'm going to rebuild the replacement unit that is now out.
I'm guessing that you can get about 2 or 3 rebuild cycles out of the motor before the armature copper is too worn down to work, then you will likely need a new motor.
If you know of a source to buy these motors please let us know. Would be nice to get the motor alone with out the fans to save some bucks.
On mine the motor and brush part numbers are here:
Pittman
# 14203C708-R6
12 VDC
12-02-10
Dyn Balanced
Ametek Technical & Industrial Products
Fan Assembly Thelin Old PN 43000-120 New PN 00-0005-0009
Brushes Thelin Old PN 43000-34 New PN 00-0035-0042
Best,
Jethro
