New to pellet stoves, some help needed!

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Andy2016

New Member
Aug 4, 2022
16
Hunterdon County, NJ
Hi Everyone,

First post here. My name is Andrew and I am from NJ. I bought a house a few years ago with oil heat and have wanted to put in a pellet stove since I moved in and this year I am finally going to pull the trigger. I have done quite a bit of research and am pretty set on picking up a comfortbilt HP22 stove. I will be installing it in my family room between two windows, and will need to put in an outside air kit in order to get the clearances for venting of 18" because of the clearances that I have. I am pretty mechanically inclined, but have some questions about the install and am in between cutting through my house for the exhaust myself or having someone come out to do it professionally. I plan on going straight out through my wall with a wall thimble, then do a T clean out, go up 3 feet or so, and then 90 out away from the house.

My main question is, has anyone else put a stove between windows and had issues? I am going to call my local fire department and make sure I am to code, but from the pipe and manufacturers instructions, it looks like with an OAK that you can be 18" away from the side of a window versus 48". I have about 60" total between the two windows, so I am fine with the 18", but it'll be a little close.

I have attached a picture here to show where I want to put the stove and where it makes the most sense in my house layout.

Thanks!

IMG_0471.jpg
 
Thanks for the response! I was under the impression that the 12" above was if it terminated directly above a window, but this wouldn't, it would be to the side like the "A" marking instead of "B" on pg 11 so I just needed the 18" . I would go above the window but then I have an eve clearance issue not being >24"
 
I don't have mine between two windows, but I do have a window on the right and a wall to the left. I would believe the main concerns would be:
  • Making sure that you won't be cutting into a stud for the hole - and having enough clearance from any studs
  • Making sure you are far enough from electrical wires
  • Will the exhaust pipe inside the house clear your baseboard by enough (clearance needed for your pipe could be up to 4" depending upon mfg)
  • Will the cold from having two windows back there mess with the room temp sensor
But I don't think any but that last point is unique to your situation - just things to be aware of and prepared for if you do it yourself.
 
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I don't have mine between two windows, but I do have a window on the right and a wall to the left. I would believe the main concerns would be:
  • Making sure that you won't be cutting into a stud for the hole - and having enough clearance from any studs
  • Making sure you are far enough from electrical wires
  • Will the exhaust pipe inside the house clear your baseboard by enough (clearance needed for your pipe could be up to 4" depending upon mfg)
  • Will the cold from having two windows back there mess with the room temp sensor
But I don't think any but that last point is unique to your situation - just things to be aware of and prepared for if you do it yourself.
mine is as shown.. picture makes it looks too close but clearance between windows is within code.. dealership installed.

IMG_1738.JPG
 
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Thanks for the replies everyone! Gives me a lot to think about and plan out! For the windows, the addition where this is being put in is fairly new and the windows are quite tight and efficient, so I am not too worried about the cold as I haven't noticed a draft from them in previous winters, but I'll pay attention.

@Tonyray thanks for the picture! although not in a corner, thats similar to what I am doing between two windows, so is helpful. How is it vented out, next to a window or does it go out and up above?

Thanks!
 
I would think that the most important thing would be maintaining the 24” minimum below the eave. So heat and fumes don’t accumulate under the eave. That’s fire safety.

You’re already within the 18” per side to a window that opens. 24” below the eave would likely put you in line with the top pane of the window. Which you don’t open anyway. And in all reality, running the stove with the windows open at all would be pointless unless someone likes throwing money away. As an additional measure you could put a couple of strips in the windows to block the top pane from being lowered, if the fire dept says you’re too close to an openable window. But I think you’re fine.
 
Tlc1976, I was thinking the same as what you stated. Ill be far enough from the sides of the windows, probably 24" or more from the sides and wanted to stay away from that eve, so the plan was to just use a little bit of pipe to go up to create that natural draft, but still be quite a few feet from the eve.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone! Gives me a lot to think about and plan out! For the windows, the addition where this is being put in is fairly new and the windows are quite tight and efficient, so I am not too worried about the cold as I haven't noticed a draft from them in previous winters, but I'll pay attention.

@Tonyray thanks for the picture! although not in a corner, thats similar to what I am doing between two windows, so is helpful. How is it vented out, next to a window or does it go out and up above?

Thanks!
it goes out the wall behind the the stove then up 6 feet. the vent below in 1st picture is the outdoor air kit. [OAK]
They can go out under a window providing the window is always closed and a tight seal avoiding blowback. [ if there is no code against it]. window is further away than it looks in the picture..

IMG_1838.JPG IMG_1841.JPG
 
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I think Harman recommends 6 feet of vertical in case the power goes out, it'll draw the smoke out naturally instead of letting it eke out into your living space. Just something to think about.

I also want to ask, is the HP22 just enough stove for what you need, or is it a little bigger than you think you need?

A big stove running slower is better than a little stove cranking at full throttle trying to keep up.
 
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I think this could be a bigger factor than some might think. In the winter the outside walls of the house are cooler anyway, and with windows on each side, even if they're good windows, there will still be some cold permeating the panes.

There was a post on here a while back someone couldn't understand why their stove was burning like crazy when previously it was fine. If I remember correctly, they discovered the temperature sensor had fallen and was touching the cold outside wall.

On the flipside, if that wall is southern exposure, the heat coming in the windows might affect the stove as well.

None of this is a real solid reason to not put the stove there, just things to think about if the stove doesn't behave as expected.
  • Will the cold from having two windows back there mess with the room temp sensor
 
I think Harman recommends 6 feet of vertical in case the power goes out, it'll draw the smoke out naturally instead of letting it eke out into your living space. Just something to think about.

I also want to ask, is the HP22 just enough stove for what you need, or is it a little bigger than you think you need?

A big stove running slower is better than a little stove cranking at full throttle trying to keep up.
not sure if your question pertains to me but, My stove is a Big HarmanP61A... Plenty of heating for our 2 story not well insulated house running 24/7 in the steady cold weather...Never have had to run full throttle...burning good softwoods helps quite a bit due to higher btu..
my softwoods are 8800 or higher compared to box store hardwoods that burn in the low 8K.

have had about 6 or more power outages over the years and never had any smoke backup into the house..
just slowly drifts out then up the exhaust till the pellets stop simmering...
 
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Hi all,

The pellet stove is bigger than I need, it says it's rated for 2800 square feet and I'm at about 2200. Also the installation recommends at least 3 feet of vertical for natural draft in case of power outage, I was thinking of doing a little more.

I talked with the fire inspector today and he said that I should be okay for venting, they will go off the installation instructions for clearances, which are 18" to windows with an OAK.

One more question is, I am in between the standard 3" piping and 4" piping. With 3" I think I'm cutting the equivalent pipe length a little close, so was thinking of going with 4". Is there any real downside to going larger?
 
Not sure if it has been mentioned but you may want to check in with your home insurance to see if they are ok with a DIY install ( as good as it may be).
 
I can't think of any reason 4" would not be desirable.
 
I didn't think it would be an issue, but I wasn't sure if there were any backpressure issues like going to big on a car exhaust. Funny enough, 4" piping and kits are cheaper than 3" for some reason. I think I am going to step up to 4.
 
Months later, but my stove has been delivered, I installed myself and got it inspected without any issues from the town or home insurance. Township fire inspector even said it was a nice clean install. I have been using it on and off for about a month so far and it's been great. Had a couple random issues, but that was more from user error and getting used to how to get everything going. It puts out a ton of heat and I really enjoy it. Looking forward to seeing how it performs as the temperatures really drop!

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