New to Woodstove Heating.. Questions about removing rust spots

[Old_Skewler]

Hello everyone,

I just purchased last fall a off-grid cabin that came with a Kodiak Woodstove. The unit operated fine thru the winter, but now in the spring the woodstove is showing some rust spots. I suspect during the winter the constant heat kept the rust down? Not sure why the rust is appearing only now..

In any case, could someone point to the correct steps in cleaning my woodstove and how to keep it rust-free when off heating season?

Here are some photos of my unit showing the rust spots on the top:



Thanks in advance for any feedback!

 

[begreen]

It looks like something was set on the stove top that leaked or spilled over. Maybe a pot or steamer?
The stove is ready for a full repaint. Clean it well, then wirebrush the worst of the rust off. Follow with steel wool. Vacuum clean of all dust and wipe down with alcohol. Then paint it with Stove Brite satin black paint. Give it 3 light coats (2 spray cans). It will look like a new stove. Do this in a very well-ventilated area and wear a mask. The fumes from the paint can rot brain cells.

 

[peakbagger]

Once you paint it, the first few burns will stink as the paint does not cure until heated. Make sure you can run it with the window open or do a temporary set up out in the driveway and run it few times.

 

[Old_Skewler]

It looks like something was set on the stove top that leaked or spilled over. Maybe a pot or steamer?

You are correct, it has a metal pot with water for humidification.

The stove is ready for a full repaint. Clean it well, then wirebrush the worst of the rust off. Follow with steel wool. Vacuum clean of all dust and wipe down with alcohol. Then paint it with Stove Brite satin black paint. Give it 3 light coats (2 spray cans). It will look like a new stove. Do this in a very well-ventilated area and wear a mask. The fumes from the paint can rot brain cells.

Thank you very much for the information. Any chance you could recommend the proper tools and materials I should buy off Amazon?

Also, do I need to remove the stove from the cabin to paint it? It sounds like that. I have not touched the flue pipe, but I will do if necessary.

 

[Old_Skewler]

Once you paint it, the first few burns will stink as the paint does not cure until heated. Make sure you can run it with the window open or do a temporary set up out in the driveway and run it few times.

Okay, good to know. It seems like the best way to do it will be figuring out how to disconnect the stove from the exhaust pipe then place the stove outside for cleaning and painting.

Thank you for the feedback!

 

[begreen]

A wire brush with a wooden handle and steel wool are usually sold at local hardware stores. Stove Brite paint is sold at most big box stores or online at Amazon.

 

[Old_Skewler]

A wire brush with a wooden handle and steel wool are usually sold at local hardware stores. Stove Brite paint is sold at most big box stores or online at Amazon.

Got it, I will get the brush and steel wool locally.

Regarding the spray paint, is this the correct one? And how many cans do you think it would take to paint my Kodiak? They mention a "Stove Bright Paint Prep", do you know if it is critical to use it?

Stove Bright

TIA!

 

[Old_Skewler]

Here is the flue pipe from the stove. I suspect I should try replacing it while I am working on the rust.

I don't see a telescopic connection so I am not even sure how this was installed.

How should I approach this?

 

[begreen]

That's the right brand, but I would get the Satin Black. It looks better on steel stoves and is easier to clean. The Amazon price is high. I found it for about $5 less at the local Home Depot, not sure what is available to you locally. Ask at your hardware store.

Stove Bright High Temp Paint - Satin Black Paint

Stove Bright High Temp Paint - Satin Black Paint - High Temp Paint - Satin Black Paint- Find high temp spray paint for your fireplace, stove, and woodstove here, including Stove Bright high temp paint. - NorthlineExpress.com

www.northlineexpress.com

 

[bholler]

Got it, I will get the brush and steel wool locally.

Regarding the spray paint, is this the correct one? And how many cans do you think it would take to paint my Kodiak? They mention a "Stove Bright Paint Prep", do you know if it is critical to use it?

Stove Bright

TIA!

I like satin better than flat but flat will work fine. I typically don't use their paint prep. Just alcohol or acetone. And I would get 3 cans.

 

[Old_Skewler]

That's the right brand, but I would get the Satin Black. It looks better on steel stoves and is easier to clean. I found it for about $5 less at the local Home Depot, not sure what is available to you locally. Ask at your hardware store.

But if I do black I would have to paint the entire stove, no? I thought I could just do the top parts with the rust and try matching the same color.

To make it black I would have to disassemble the doors and everything painted black. Am I understanding this correctly?

Again, this is my very first wood stove and to be quite honest my very first house - i am already a bit overwhelmed with the amount of work is taking to keep everything running.

Would it be possible to clean the rust areas of the stove and paint only those areas, matching the color of the rest of the stove?

 

[begreen]

That's single-wall pipe. Double-wall is recommended for long runs over 6-8'.

The paint has greyed with age. It would be almost impossible to match the color. It's not that big a deal. The doors are heavy, but they should lift off the hinge pins to remove. If you don't want to move the stove, then just tent the nearby surrounding area and open all doors and windows, and put a fan in the outside doorway exhausting the fumes out of the room. The paint dries quickly. You can recoat in about 15-30 minutes.

 

[begreen]

How will this stove be used? For an occasional fire, or will it be depended on for 24/7 heat? If the latter, then you might consider getting a new replacement that will be much more efficient, cleaner-burning, and will provide a nice fire view.

 

[begreen]

I hear you on the overload of getting a new home together. Our first 6 months were a challenge, especially because we move in during November.
Regardless of use, firewood needs to be fully seasoned to burn well. Will you be cutting, splitting, and stacking your own or buying it. It is very hard to buy truly seasoned firewood so it's best to get it asap and stack it top covered to start seasoning. Ash, and pine will dry quicker.

 

[begreen]

I have to ask some questions about the current installation. Is the stacked stone wall right against the wood? How thick is the stacked stone? What is the distance from the back of the stove to the stone wall behind it? Has the insurance company approved this installation?

 

[Old_Skewler]

That's single-wall pipe. Double-wall is recommended for long runs over 6-8'.

If I currently have single-wall pipe, should/could I change it to double-wall? And if I were to change it to double-wall pipe, would I need to change the roof termination?

The paint has greyed with age. It would be almost impossible to match the color. It's not that big a deal. The doors are heavy, but they should lift off the hinge pins to remove. If you don't want to move the stove, then just tent the nearby surrounding area and open all doors and windows, and put a fan in the outside doorway exhausting the fumes out of the room. The paint dries quickly. You can recoat in about 15-30 minutes.

Very clear, thank you!

How will this stove be used? For an occasional fire, or will it be depended on for 24/7 heat? If the latter, then you might consider getting a new replacement that will be much more efficient, cleaner-burning, and will provide a nice fire view.

This is the only heating in the cabin during the winter and I would like to upgrade it, but I just can't afford it right now. I would like to get at least another couple of years out of this unit before replacing it.

Regardless of use, firewood needs to be fully seasoned to burn well. Will you be cutting, splitting, and stacking your own or buying it. It is very hard to buy truly seasoned firewood so it's best to get it asap and stack it top covered to start seasoning. Ash, and pine will dry quicker.

We started cutting and piling up new wood for the future. For last winter and this upcoming we will need to rely on local firewood for sale.

I have to ask some questions about the current installation. Is the stacked stone wall right against the wood?

Nope, there is some sort of concrete/cement sheet/layer behind the stone wall.

How thick is the stacked stone?

Between 4" to 5".

What is the distance from the back of the stove to the stone wall behind it?

The back of the stove to stone wall is about 14".
The back of the stack to the wall is about 16.5".

Has the insurance company approved this installation?

Nope.

 

[begreen]

If I currently have single-wall pipe, should/could I change it to double-wall?

It would be the correct way to do this.

And if I were to change it to double-wall pipe, would I need to change the roof termination?

No, the chimney pipe starts on the other side of the support box. It remains the same, but the chimney pipe should be checked to verify it is still in good working condition. If the chimney is as old as the stove it could very well be at the end of its life.

The back of the stove to stone wall is about 14".
The back of the stack to the wall is about 16.5".

With a 4" masonry wall the rear clearance for this stove can be reduced from 36" to 18". Most modern stoves have much smaller clearance requirements, but for an old unlisted stove it's 36" in all directions.