New w/a few questions

[Mainewoodchucker]

Little background first . Have burned wood off and on since I was a kid . Uncle was a welder so used a few plate steel stoves he made . Father put in an Ashley wood circulator when we moved to the country . Worked OK but ate around 6-7 cords of wood per season for a 12x60 trailer with addition .

Now here is where I am at atm . Bought my land with a 14x70 trailer on it 8 years ago. Decided I wanted to heat with wood so started cutting my wood to get a good 2 year season . Took the next few years building a 18x20 addition to put the wood stove in . Only way insurance would allow a wood stove . Currently I am running an old Wonder wood ( similar to the Ashley of old) . Does work OK . 8 degrees outside and coldest part of the house is 75 . But this thing eats wood. Only running this stove because it was free .

Now I am looking to pick up a new stove . Have 2 in mind . Englander 30 and the magnolia . My ceiling height is 9 1/2 feet in addition and 8 foot cathedral in the trailer . 2x4 walls in trailer and 2x6 in adition. Already have my hearth with 7 feet single wall pipe to roof kit with 7 feet double wall duravent .

Now my questions . Are the two above stoves equatible? Is 14 feet tall enough for either ? Will either give me overnight burns ( 9-10 hours) ? Anything detracting from either ?

Both are the same price in my area , but I get a 10 % discount on the Englander so save $90 . Any input is appreciated . Tired of loading wood evry few hours and watching my prime stacks going so quickly . Have 9 cord , half being aged 3 years and other half for 2 years . Don't want to eat it all up running this wonder wood.

 

[begreen]

The Englander should definitely give you overnight burns. That is the one I would chose. Made in the USA with good service and support. 14 ft flue is just barely adequate but may work. I'd give it a try.

 

[Mainewoodchucker]

Thanks . That was my initial thought of purchase . If need be I can add another 3' section of double wall for be tter draft . Tired of paying 2k plus per season in oil when I have acres of free hardwood .

 

[begreen]

The Englander should definitely save you on wood too. Give yourself time to learn how to run it. EPA stoves have a different burn cycle and control settings that the old stoves. The good thing is that we have lots of 30NC owners here and Englander support frequents the forum. As long as the wood is dry you should do well. Note that the stove needs to have adequate hearth protection. You may need to supplement the current hearth depending on what is already there.

 

[Sprinter]

Welcome.

My first thought is that anything will be better than the circulator. My second thought is the same as begreen's. The 30 NC has a big following here and is a solid performer. It's considered to be kind of a heat monster at 3.5 cf of firebox. You may even want to consider a more mid sized stove around 2 - 2.5 cf, but so much depends on the house and climate.

 

[dmmoss51]

I think your setup may require an outside air kit or OAK not a big deal just something to keep in mind.

 

[Mainewoodchucker]

The Englander should definitely save you on wood too. Give yourself time to learn how to run it. EPA stoves have a different burn cycle and control settings that the old stoves. The good thing is that we have lots of 30NC owners here and Englander support frequents the forum. As long as the wood is dry you should do well. Note that the stove needs to have adequate hearth protection. You may need to supplement the current hearth depending on what is already there.

The Englander should definitely save you on wood too. Give yourself time to learn how to run it. EPA stoves have a different burn cycle and control settings that the old stoves. The go

The Englander should definitely save you on wood too. Give yourself time to learn how to run it. EPA stoves have a different burn cycle and control settings that the old stoves. The good thing is that we have lots of 30NC owners here and Englander support frequents the forum. As long as the wood is dry you should do well. Note that the stove needs to have adequate hearth protection. You may need to supplement the current hearth depending on what is already there.

As long as the wood is dry you should do well. Note that the stove needs to have adequate hearth protection. You may need to supplement the current hearth depending on what is already there.

My hearth is on 1/2" Duroc on floor , then steel studs , the 1" Duroc, , then tie . The wall secion is steel studs mounted to wall with 1/2" Duroc , then tile . Almost 2" air gap .


And yes , thought of a smaller stove , but as trailer owners know , they are not very " tight" . Mine is an 85 with some of the windows still beng the old tab lock style . Add to that the inefficient wall depth of 2" , I need to keep my current stove cooking to keep it warm enough for the wife . Also , the weather here can be quite brutal . With wind hill it is 3 here atm and going down .

 

[Mainewoodchucker]

I think your setup may require an outside air kit or OAK not a big deal just something to keep in mind.

Yes that is the plan . Have a nearby window cracked right now since there is no OAK for the stove I am running atm .

 

[Mainewoodchucker]

Thank you all for the replys . Will be picking up my new stove this week and will let you know how it goes .

 

[begreen]

My hearth is on 1/2" Duroc on floor , then steel studs , the 1" Duroc, , then tie . The wall secion is steel studs mounted to wall with 1/2" Duroc , then tile . Almost 2" air gap .


And yes , thought of a smaller stove , but as trailer owners know , they are not very " tight" . Mine is an 85 with some of the windows still beng the old tab lock style . Add to that the inefficient wall depth of 2" , I need to keep my current stove cooking to keep it warm enough for the wife . Also , the weather here can be quite brutal . With wind hill it is 3 here atm and going down .

Sounds good. I think you will be fine with the bigger 30NC. This is Maine, by gorry!

 

[Sprinter]

Yes that is the plan . Have a nearby window cracked right now since there is no OAK for the stove I am running atm .

An OAK is required for mobile home installations anyway by most codes. It's ironic that the reason for it is because they consider mobile homes to be tightly constructed. Clearly, that's not always the case, but they lump all mobiles together in one basket for all kinds of rules.

 

[begreen]

With the addition this is no longer a mobile home.

 

[dmmoss51]

Yes that was my source for the advice and having lived in a mobile home before they are not tightly constructed ha!

 

[Sprinter]

With the addition this is no longer a mobile home.

Ah, I didn't know that. Thanks.

 

[Mainewoodchucker]

An OAK is required for mobile home installations anyway by most codes. It's ironic that the reason for it is because they consider mobile homes to be tightly constructed. Clearly, that's not always the case, but they lump all mobiles together in one basket for all kinds of rules.

Correct , with another insurer I could put the stove within the trailer . But as mentioned , the addition is new construction built to standard home code . I believe the reason for no wood stove is because trailers are essentially tinderboxes .

Again , thanks for the replies.

 

[Oregon aloha]

If the mobile was constructed in Oregon then it would be a tight home, as it is required by code. The highest codes in the country on mobile homes. You would think with your extreme weather in Maine that the mobile homes would be required to meet a higher standard of energy efficiency. Is your mobile skirted or on a foundation? If just skirted mobiles can feel real cold as the floors don't have much insulation.

 

[Mainewoodchucker]

If the mobile was constructed in Oregon then it would be a tight home, as it is required by code. The highest codes in the country on mobile homes. You would think with your extreme weather in Maine that the mobile homes would be required to meet a higher standard of energy efficiency. Is your mobile skirted or on a foundation? If just skirted mobiles can feel real cold as the floors don't have much insulation.

Slab and skirted. Added R19 insulation inside the skirting so it helps . Possible mine came from the south as code etc is tight here . People bought them cheap and moved them here. Think the Englander will work fine.