New guy here with a few questions.

[Newbie78]

I really don't think you will be making a mistake going to the myriad.

It doesn't seem that difficult for us to keep temperatures bearable even in moderate weather. And when it's cold we have enough firebox to last a while before reloads. Like you can get some uninterrupted sleep.

 

[wasatchcomm]

Ya . My only concern I guess would be if I need more chimney for the larger stove
Myriad vs 1800
15’ of stove would be doable
But any more might look ridiculous
I’ve been driving around looking at everyone’s stoves now
And mine might be one of the tallest around here
Seems like no one around here knows any different I guses!

 

[Newbie78]

Ya . My only concern I guess would be if I need more chimney for the larger stove
Myriad vs 1800
15’ of stove would be doable
But any more might look ridiculous
I’ve been driving around looking at everyone’s stoves now
And mine might be one of the tallest around here
Seems like no one around here knows any different I guses!

 

[Newbie78]

That's our setup right now, just burning down some coals.

You said you might be able to get rid of your stovepipe bends. If you put up some rear shielding that would ensure that, I think. My rear shielding (which exceeds by far the recommended clearance requirements) is the side panel of an old range. It's a nice piece of tin. It needs a bit of art on it... It's hanging on a couple of lag bolts, is all. The firescreen hangs on top of it, upside down on its clips.

Are you sure you want to go single wall stove pipe? The sliding double wall is convenient for me for cleaning. It's easily removed.

I would try your draft the way it is, although I have no reference, being at 2000' and with 20' of chimney from stove pipe to chimney cap.

I have 7' sticking out of the roof, which I don't like but it had to be due to interior layout.

Our stove sucks like crazy!

We have occasional trouble when a strong wind comes directly from the west. Even 20 degrees or maybe less from due west is no issue. The stove has a pretty strong suction that you can easily feel on the door.

 

[Newbie78]

If you look carefully at the inside of the door bottom in my pic you will see the little piece of tinfoil I mentioned that protects the seam of the door gasket. It just wraps under the door frame a bit and is unseen from the outside unless you are laying underneath the door, which is never. That little tinfoil has over 10 months of continuous burning on it at this point. You just have to be careful and keep it level with the gasket so there's not a leak. The columbia is perfect. The legend shows signs of a tiny bit of "suck" at that location, but it doesn't actually breach the gasket/tinfoil whatsoever with those signs.

In any case, when you first fire your new stove, open the door periodically to prevent the gasket from sticking to the paint. I was afraid I was going to tear the darn thing off on the legend. Before I knew better I slightly shredded the seam of the columbia's gasket during it's first couple of fires. The legend was never burned without the tinfoil fix, (or the door pin set-screw fix) but I didn't know to open the door a bunch of times in the first fire or two. I think that would prevent the pretty severe sticking when new, but I don't know for sure.

Also, what I have found to keep the door swinging beautifully is to apply a whisper of hitemp antiseize to the door pins periodically. "Coppercoat" is what I have been using. The door just lifts off, so very simple. I spray a tiny bit of wd40 on the door closure roller and the threads of the lever in the door frame every couple of days to make the feel of the closure like butter. I don't like squeaky things. There might be a more permanent fix for this, perhaps brake caliper pin grease, but I haven't tried that.

 

[Newbie78]

Oh, and don't mind the funky hearth tile. Wifey's choice. She likes whimsical things. It sure hides the wood debris well tho...

 

[Newbie78]

One other thing...

Get a probe thermometer for the flue and an ir gun for checking stove top temps.

In warmer weather we run the stovetop at about 450f and the flue cruises at about the same or a bit more.

You will have no idea how hot your flue is (these stoves run a hot flue) without that thermometer. Although the ir gun will cover it if you stick to single wall pipe.

 

[wasatchcomm]

I have a magnetic flue temp gauge
And I do have a IR gun already

 

[wasatchcomm]

so I just ordered the Myriad 3
pretty excited

 

[begreen]

Ya . My only concern I guess would be if I need more chimney for the larger stove
Myriad vs 1800
15’ of stove would be doable
But any more might look ridiculous
I’ve been driving around looking at everyone’s stoves now
And mine might be one of the tallest around here
Seems like no one around here knows any different I guses!

The Myriad III does not need more chimney than the 1800. It should work on a 12' straight-up flue unless there are mitigating circumstances, like chimney location or high altitude.

 

[wasatchcomm]

I did a lot of measuring and with the shape and size of the Myriad, more length than width Im pretty sure I can get the pipe to be straight up without the 2 elbows presently being used, it might sit a little off center of the pad but only by 1"-2",
we are at 7300' and I'm planning on adding 3' of pipe outside and supports to existing chimney. based on the height suggested for my elevation.

 

[oilcan1001]

we are at 7300' and I'm planning on adding 3' of pipe outside and supports to existing chimney. based on the height suggested for my elevation.

I am at 4800' elev and my total flue is right at 15'. My draft is sufficient but not enough to close the door just after lighting. On a cold start I have to leave it open for about 10-15 mins to get going strong and on a reload I leave the door slightly ajar for about 3-5 min.

 

[wasatchcomm]

I am at 4800' elev and my total flue is right at 15'. My draft is sufficient but not enough to close the door just after lighting. On a cold start I have to leave it open for about 10-15 mins to get going strong and on a reload I leave the door slightly ajar for about 3-5 min.

I hope I can get away with no more than 15'

 

[Newbie78]

I'm just flat-out guessing, but I think you will be fine, given your chimney's location in the roof and the fact that my legend sucks like crazy..

I'd give it a try as-is, but have a source for additional chimney parts already lined up

 

[wasatchcomm]

I got the new stove, got it moved in and am doing the initial burn in as we speak. Small fire to start for about 1 hour. Got it going a bit hotter now amd Fumes are almost burnt off I think , it’s cold tonight and this morning it was -8 supposed to be about 0 in the morning so, I hope I can get it burned in tonight and turned down
I’m very happy with the delivery and Obidiahs out of Kalispell Mt I ordered through. Delivery guy had a easy job,
Loaded it on my flatbed truck.
I did have to trim about 4.25” off my exhausting flue so I got a little shorter. As one person mentioned earlier I had to leave the door cracked for 10 minutes before I could close door and leave air input on high without fire going out.
Now it’s going in it’s own. But I do think I need to add some more chimney to it.
To get proper draft

 

[begreen]

I got the new stove, got it moved in and am doing the initial burn in as we speak. Small fire to start for about 1 hour. Got it going a bit hotter now amd Fumes are almost burnt off I think , it’s cold tonight and this morning it was -8 supposed to be about 0 in the morning so, I hope I can get it burned in tonight and turned down
I’m very happy with the delivery and Obidiahs out of Kalispell Mt I ordered through. Delivery guy had a easy job,
Loaded it on my flatbed truck.
I did have to trim about 4.25” off my exhausting flue so I got a little shorter. As one person mentioned earlier I had to leave the door cracked for 10 minutes before I could close door and leave air input on high without fire going out.
Now it’s going in it’s own. But I do think I need to add some more chimney to it.
To get proper draft

Congratulations! That's exciting. Give yourself a bit of time to get adjusted to the new stove. Try multiple loads. Try a load where you put down two 12" long pieces of 1" thick wood, about 6" apart, loaded N/S. Then load the rest of the wood normally, E/W on top of those two 'sleepers'. See if that helps with a quicker startup.

What species of firewood is burning? Is the firewood fully seasoned?

 

[Newbie78]

Woohooo!

Burn baby burn!

 

[Newbie78]

Fumes won't be (mostly) burnt off until you hit about 550 stove top. A couple of times. But they will be drastically subsided before that.

Did you check the set-screws for the eccentric door pins?...

 

[wasatchcomm]

Using lodgepole pine. Mostly from a burn that hit in 2016. Most of the locals around here get wood from that area. It’s easy access and easy to get. I need to test the moisture in it.
I’m using wood I cut from that burn last year. It was standing and I cut split and stacked it last year.
It’s got good drying cracks in it, yellowish color from the sun. We get a lot of sun here.
I will start a fire in the morning using the suggestion you made. See if that helps with start up.
It’s only been a few more hours
But I can tell this stove is burning much cleaner and I’m getting more btu out of the fuel I’m putting in it.

 

[wasatchcomm]

Fumes won't be (mostly) burnt off until you hit about 550 stove top. A couple of times. But they will be drastically subsided before that.

Did you check the set-screws for the eccentric door pins?...

Ya I figure it will take a few days to get it right
No worries
The worst is over now I think
Set screws were good
I checked the door seal all the way around with paper like the manual said everything was perfect.
I’m really impressed so far.
And I’m loving N/S loading.

 

[wasatchcomm]

after a long night burning, im impressed, plenty of coals this morning to get the fire going again.
house stayed at 71 degrees when I woke up, it was 74 when I went to bed, we like it warm....
I will say the glass is all black now though.

 

[Caw]

after a long night burning, im impressed, plenty of coals this morning to get the fire going again.
house stayed at 71 degrees when I woke up, it was 74 when I went to bed, we like it warm....
I will say the glass is all black now though.

You shouldn't have black glass with a tube stove like the 1800. That means you didn't get complete combustion towards the end of the burn. Try burning it hotter with more air next time. You should wake up to clean glass with only gray or at worst a hint of brown fly ash on it.

 

[wasatchcomm]

I will try that
I let the stove burn out today and I tried the start up you suggested in post #66
Start up was the same slow, had to leave door open for almost 10 minutes before it would stay going on its own.
Even with air supply wide open it seems as if it’s struggling to really get going. I would expect more I guess
But maybe that’s the nature of this stove?
I know my wood is good, if I open the door it will take off and be a roaring quickly.
I tried to figure out what kind of pipe I have today to order another 3’-4’ extension but it’s nothing I can find local.
I’ll attach a pic of it.

 

[begreen]

It looks like that might be MetalFab chimney pipe.

The chimney will need a roof brace at 5' above where it exits the roof.

 

[wasatchcomm]

It looks like that might be MetalFab chimney pipe.

The chimney will need a roof brace at 5' above where it exits the roof.

Ya I plan on getting a brace
We get a lot of wind and mine at 4’ right now gets a little shaky in the winter winds