New woodstove in existing fireplace, need updated info please

[GreenInVA]

Hi everyone-This is a bit long but I’m trying to give all info up front: After lurking here for a few years & suffering through many cold winters using kerosene heaters to save the heat pumps (no judgement please, the smell was bad enough) we’re finally putting in a wood stove. The fireplace was converted to gas before we moved in years ago; I’m told it was run maybe three times, then shut off, disconnected, capped and has been collecting dust since. We're in Virginia's Blue Ridge mts, a 1970s 3-story, about 1000 sqft per level, with the fireplace (pics below) in a large kitchen on one end of the house on the main level. The stairs are in the center of the home with rooms around it, 8’ ceilings with some ceiling fans. Doorways open opposite the fireplace and the other end of the kitchen, so air could circulate around the main floor easily with a tower fan if needed. Winters can get into single digits, high winds. We have plenty of wood from downed trees and access to loads more.

The kerosene heater was enough to heat the main level and upstairs during the day, then the heat pumps kicked in overnight when we shut the heater off (cue fumes.) We’ve gotten two different estimates for a liner, a bit of exterior chimney masonry work & sealer, etc., but the stoves recommended were vastly different. One guy said he could raise the lintel, knock out some of the back, etc., to accommodate a larger stove, but didn’t mention the cost/labor of that vs. extending the hearth. The basement isn’t used much, but there is a wood fireplace/insert which we’re adding a chimney liner to as well.

What I’m 95% sure we want: non-catalytic (don’t want to depend on electricity, power went out for a week this past Feb); surface big enough to hold 1-2 pots; 8-10 hour overnight burn time. We’re willing to extend the hearth to meet code and safety (&/or keep fireproof rug down) in order to have the stove “out” far enough to use the surface for pots/kettles. I think this will require a 45-degree chimney vent (?) but it should be ok.

The True North 20 seems to be the front runner for size constraints and burn time. I can’t find much info on the TN25C model. VC is out (quality over the past years) and many others simply don’t fit or the side doors are pointless for us. Price is a bit of a consideration, but we’re willing to spend more for doing it right, once.

We would love updated advice, info, opinions before we move forward on this in the next few weeks. I’ve read most threads from the past few years on Jotul, Blaze King, Woodstock, Lopi and more and appreciate everyone’s personal and professional insights!! Thank you.

PS: The chimney is accessible on the other side via the garage. All brick is intact and in great shape (phew!)

 

[begreen]

The True North TN20 is a good value stove. Also look at the Drolet Escape 1800 insert.

It will be important to put some serious thought on how the heat will circulate out of the kitchen. Doorways tend to block convection. FYI, Catalytic stoves don't require power so I wouldn't rule them out on that account. If it's ok to extend the hearth, it's worth considering a freestanding stove like the Woodstock Ideal Steel which can be rear-vented. However, it's a large stove. This suggestion would depend upon a practical means of convecting the heat out of the kitchen. That could be done with fans, but during a power outage it's possible that most of the heat would stay in the kitchen.

Can you post a sketch of the first floor plan that indicates doorway sizes? It would be helpful to see possible options.

 

[BKVP]

Regardless of which unit you purchase, get an insulated liner(s). You may also want to have easy access to on/off controls of those ceiling fans. You may find during loading they may contribute to smoke spillage.

BKVP

 

[GreenInVA]

We are planning to have liners put in for both the upstairs woodstove and the downstairs wood burning insert. Thanks for the tip on the ceiling fans, both have remote controls & wall switches. Below is the floor plan of the main level to scale-the kitchen and living room are both 14' x 26' and none of the doorways have doors. I have been toying with the idea of opening the doorways to the kitchen wider and/or putting "transom" openings (without glass) to improve circulation. Thanks also for the catalytic, non-electric info. I guess all the ones I looked at happened to be older, plug-in models :-(

 

[BKVP]

We are planning to have liners put in for both the upstairs woodstove and the downstairs wood burning insert. Thanks for the tip on the ceiling fans, both have remote controls & wall switches. Below is the floor plan of the main level to scale-the kitchen and living room are both 14' x 26' and none of the doorways have doors. I have been toying with the idea of opening the doorways to the kitchen wider and/or putting "transom" openings (without glass) to improve circulation. Thanks also for the catalytic, non-electric info. I guess all the ones I looked at happened to be older, plug-in models :-(

I have never heard or seen a plug in catalytic wood stove,, at least in my 28 years. The liners should be "insulated" liners.

Any improvement in air movement will help tremendously.

BKVP

 

[begreen]

Those 30" doorways are not going to permit much heat convection out of the room without assistance. A fan down low, on the floor of the large top room, placed in the doorway so that it blows cooler air into the stove room, can help a lot.