Newb chainsaw purchase

[Brian VT]

I called my closest (45 min. drive) Dolmar dealer today. He's open until 8:00 pm weeknights ! Said he's been selling them since 1974. I'm anxious to visit.
I've never owned a chainsaw and have only used one a few times (1/2 hr. total lifetime ?). Planning to get a 5100S because you guys said so. LOL
I'm not good at "dickering" and don't plan to. If I wanted to save a couple bucks I'd shop online, but I'd rather have some service in this instance.
So, what would be reasonable to ask for before I leave ? Swap out the safety chain ? Keep it on for my learning time and throw in a better chain for later ? Basic lessons and safety advice ? Should I have them "break it in" before I get there so I don't need to go back for carb adjustments ?
What do you guys expect from a full service dealer when you buy a new saw ?

 

[smokinj]

I called my closest (45 min. drive) Dolmar dealer today. He's open until 8:00 pm weeknights ! Said he's been selling them since 1974. I'm anxious to visit.
I've never owned a chainsaw and have only used one a few times (1/2 hr. total lifetime ?). Planning to get a 5100S because you guys said so. LOL
I'm not good at "dickering" and don't plan to. If I wanted to save a couple bucks I'd shop online, but I'd rather have some service in this instance.
So, what would be reasonable to ask for before I leave ? Swap out the safety chain ? Keep it on for my learning time and throw in a better chain for later ? Basic lessons and safety advice ? Should I have them "break it in" before I get there so I don't need to go back for carb adjustments ?
What do you guys expect from a full service dealer when you buy a new saw ?

The saw should be ready to go when they hand it to you! safty chain at frist wouldnt be a bad idea. chaps a must and helmet system would also be a good idea.Stick with safty chains til you get some hrs. talking a good 40hrs on the saw frist.You will learn alot as you go but you will always need to stay as safe as possiable.

 

[smokinj]

I called my closest (45 min. drive) Dolmar dealer today. He's open until 8:00 pm weeknights ! Said he's been selling them since 1974. I'm anxious to visit.
I've never owned a chainsaw and have only used one a few times (1/2 hr. total lifetime ?). Planning to get a 5100S because you guys said so. LOL
I'm not good at "dickering" and don't plan to. If I wanted to save a couple bucks I'd shop online, but I'd rather have some service in this instance.
So, what would be reasonable to ask for before I leave ? Swap out the safety chain ? Keep it on for my learning time and throw in a better chain for later ? Basic lessons and safety advice ? Should I have them "break it in" before I get there so I don't need to go back for carb adjustments ?
What do you guys expect from a full service dealer when you buy a new saw ?

The saw should be ready to go when they hand it to you! safty chain at frist wouldnt be a bad idea. chaps a must and helmet system would also be a good idea.Stick with safty chains til you get some hrs. talking a good 40hrs on the saw frist.You will learn alot as you go but you will always need to stay as safe as possiable.Have them show you how to run it learn how to use the brake frist................

 

[Brian VT]

Chaps and helmet/mask/ears are for sure. I may also wear my full motocross gear too for the 1st cord or so. LOL
So...they might should be able to show me some actual cutting while I'm there or just starting/stopping the saw and general maintenance ?
These don't need a break-in ? With a new motorcycle, or after rebuilding the top end, we always run them through some break-in steps to seat the rings, etc.

 

[carbon neutral]

The Dolmar dealer I went to went over everything with me on how to take care of the saw and how to break it down for maintenance. Then he gassed it up and we went out back to cut some wood. After that he made some final adjustments to the carb and sent me on my way. He is a relatively good dealer, not sure that you will get such good service.

 

[chad3]

Head back after about 15 hours for a tune up. Ask him now if he will give you cost for the chains and a bar at the tune up. If not, but will now, pick up 2 extra chains (hate to say an extra bar, but...) and some oil if the deal is good. My last purchase was stihl and the guy gave me 2 chains at 1/2 price and the saw for the cost of the one one cheaper than it...
Chad

 

[Brian VT]

So...I'll probably burn a bar while learning ?
About the fuel mix...I run Amsoil synthetic 50:1 with non-ethanol 91 gas in my motorcycles. Would saw-specific oil be better or will I be okay with this mix ?
Will I go through air filters or do they last/clean up pretty well ?
It's not going to be convenient to get to this shop so I'd like to be as self-sufficient as possible when it comes to brand-specific parts. I suspect I can get bars, chains, oil, and plugs anywhere. What parts should I get while I'm there ?

 

[chad3]

Filters are fine, just knock them off/ suck or blow them off every once in a while (more than not). More than that, try and clean out the cover area more than not. I've run every thing from 87 octane to 110 race fuel (I really like the smell), but I'm not sure more than 93 or 94 does you any good. Non-ethanol is much better. Try not to bog it too bad, don't use the spikes, use the chain to cut the wood. You'll enjoy the saw and after a while with that saw you can bump up to the 7900.
Enjoy cutting.
Chad

Edit: Not burn, but you may bend a bar when learning which way the tree is going while cutting. I've still now had trees that I've tried to fall one way and it goes somewhere else (I'll give a shout out to a guy who may not be on here with the 180 crowd (Ben, for you)). Be ready for a few stuck bars. If you don't have another saw, you can get away with taking the bar off and get another one to get the tree down.
Chad

 

[LLigetfa]

So...I'll probably burn a bar while learning ?

Not in your lifetime. Save your money.

 

[thebeatlesrgood]

what the hell is a safety chain? feel free to call me an idiot as well :red:

 

[Bigg_Redd]

So...I'll probably burn a bar while learning ?
About the fuel mix...I run Amsoil synthetic 50:1 with non-ethanol 91 gas in my motorcycles. Would saw-specific oil be better or will I be okay with this mix ?
Will I go through air filters or do they last/clean up pretty well ?
It's not going to be convenient to get to this shop so I'd like to be as self-sufficient as possible when it comes to brand-specific parts. I suspect I can get bars, chains, oil, and plugs anywhere. What parts should I get while I'm there ?

I use 100LL AvGas mixed 40:1 with Klotz R50 in everything I put gas in: motorcycles, mower, chainsaw, pressure washer. . .etc.

There's no such thing as "chainsaw specific" mix oil so save the hassle and run the same fuel for both.

 

[LLigetfa]

what the hell is a safety chain? feel free to call me an idiot as well :red:

Safety chains have long rakers that stand proud going around the tip so the cutters can't bite and kick back. It makes it impossible to cut with the tip and reduces the cut overall.

 

[sl7vk]

Dolmar!

 

[Gooserider]

1. Whether or not the dealer will actually do much cutting with the saw will vary (they may not have any to cut...) but definitely the saw should be ready to go, and the dealer should be able to show you basic operation and maintainance type stuff. (He should also give you the manual, which it won't hurt to read...)

2. In the manual you will see a minimum specification for your oil. If what you are running in your bikes meets that spec, go ahead and use the bike mix, otherwise get the saw oil and use that. I run brand name saw oil and the highest grade brand name pump gas (i.e. Exxon, Mobil, Shell, etc - no generics) I can get. No real benefit after 93 octane or so.

3. "Safety chain" has been compared to training wheels for chainsaws. It has a design that is supposed to reduce the chances of kickback over pro-chain, but don't put that much faith in it.... Many feel that it greatly reduces cutting performance. Since the 5100 is a "pro-saw" as opposed to a consumer grade, it may come with pro-chain rather than safety chain, which I feel is a better choice, as I found it frustrating to cut with the safety chain. You will also want to learn how to maintain a chain - get a proper size chain file, a raker file, a raker guage, and some file handles, and / or one of the various filing guides - and get the dealer to show you how to use it. IMHO the only time you should grind a chain is if you hit a rock or peice of metal, and need to do MAJOR restoration on it.

4. When negotiating for the saw, I'd go for at least one extra chain, possibly more, and an extra bar - not because you are likely to burn it, but because if you get stuck, and only have one saw it is good to be able to unbolt the powerhead and put on a new bar and chain. (I'd consider making the extra bar as long as the saw is rated for - that way you also have a long bar for big wood...) Also try for good deals on safety gear - helmet/muff/mask combo, chaps, chainsaw boots (or at least steel toes). (BTW, I wouldn't count on your MX gear offering much protection) Filters are mostly cleanable, but it wouldn't hurt to have a spare.

5. Chainsaws don't need a lot of break-in, the usual advice is to fire it up and put it to the wood - keep an eye on it though as it will run differently as it loosens up and wears in - typically around 15-20 hours it will benefit from fine tuning on the carb. (If you are trying for dealer independence you might want to get a hand held electronic tach - useful for carb adjusting)

6. There aren't all that many brand specific parts that you'll need - and you can get them online if need be, I know Amicks carries a great selection, and will ship overnight if needed.

7. If you can find a training course on saw use and safety in your area, it is a good investment.

8. If you are going to be doing a lot of tree felling or even just log cutting, there are a few non-saw accessories that I've found useful - a pair of pulp-hooks (get the ones w/ replaceable tips), a felling lever, and possibly some plastic wedges (though that's a little advanced)

Good luck, and always think safety....

Gooserider

 

[carbon neutral]

Get an extra chain, a chain file (Ask the dealer to show you how to file the chain!), and plastic felling wedges as they will greatly help you if (when) you get the bar stuck.

 

[kevin j]

A half dozen plastic wedges, the 6 inch ones, are invaluable for bucking even if you are not felling. If there is any question of bending in the log, start the cut down, set a couple wedges at 10 oclock and 2 oclock, and keep on going. very rarely stick a bar.

To keep them from sliding down onto the chain if the cut opens instead of closes, I drill a 3/8 hole crosswise near the thick end. Put some 3/8 nylon line through it, tie large knot on each side, and leave maybe 2 inch tail on each side. Catches the top of the cut and stops the wedge from dropping, in time to retrieve it. I still go through several a year, but don't launch as many off to center field by dropping onto the top chain run.

Stuck bars tear up motor mounts as usually the operator tries to jerk the saw free.

 

[Brian VT]

All good info. Thanks guys.
I'm not planning on much, if any, felling and wouldn't have thought I'd need wedges but Kevin's advice sounds like it may come in handy.
I may drive over there tonight. My logs haven't been delivered yet but I'd like to get the saw squared away before they are.

 

[Wet1]

Dolmar makes a great saw, I have a 7900 and absolutely love it. Let us know how it goes!

 

[thebeatlesrgood]

what the hell is a safety chain? feel free to call me an idiot as well :red:

Safety chains have long rakers that stand proud going around the tip so the cutters can't bite and kick back. It makes it impossible to cut with the tip and reduces the cut overall.

oh.. thanks for straightening that out for me. if the safety chains hinder performance you could always buy a tip guard for the bar. same concept (prevents kickback by disallowing tip to be used) but it accommodates a regular chain (no hindered performance), and if you need to use the tip for a big log of whatever, it can always be taken off.

 

[Brian VT]

you could always buy a tip guard for the bar. same concept (prevents kickback by disallowing tip to be used) but it accommodates a regular chain (no hindered performance), and if you need to use the tip for a big log of whatever, it can always be taken off.

Not a bad idea there either.
Are we talking .375 chain or .325 ? I think this saw will run either ?
Can someone point me to a negative post about this saw ? There must be something out there. lol

 

[kevin j]

don't go with a tip guard. Used one on a 12 inch echo when my son was young and learning, but otherwise, no.
-One of the drawbacks with safety chain is that it won't cut on the tip, i.e. can't bore (which you won't) or cut with bar buried in wood (which maybe your logs are smaller). So, you would be creating the same situation where it won't use the full bar.
-More hassle: can't put bar in and out of the cut as the tip guard is wider than the bar. I think it would snag on it and be very distracting.

I'd use the safety chain for a while and get some experience and spatial feel for where that tip is all ALL times. That just takes time of operation. After a chain or two is worn through, move to non if you wish.

I do a lot of cutting, with many saw sizes, and personally, I don't see that much difference in actual cutting speed between a good safety and non safety.. The BIG difference is between junk box store chain vs. good branded chain, and between the cutter types of chipper vs. semi chisel, vs. full chisel. I would also stay with a semi chisel chain until you get more expereinece. Full chisel cuts way better, but any dirt, its lost the edge and needs filing. So I would hone your skills on a safety, semi chisel chain. Until you move up, you won't realize what you are missing, you will be happy with the new saw and how it cuts (for a while anyway). Mainly, get some instruction or help and develope the skills necessary. Might be 'training wheels', but if I read it correectly that is what you need for now?

forgot: saws will run either .325 or .375, usually small ones are better on .325. But the sprocket or clutch drum and the bar tip sprocket must match the chain pitch, and the var slot must match the chain gauge (thickness) Most saws can run any, but you need to change sprocket (or rim), bar, and chain all together. And there are advantages/disadvatages to each, not go into now.

k

 

[Brian VT]

Might be 'training wheels', but if I read it correectly that is what you need for now?

forgot: saws will run either .325 or .375, usually small ones are better on .325. But the sprocket or clutch drum and the bar tip sprocket must match the chain pitch, and the var slot must match the chain gauge (thickness) Most saws can run any, but you need to change sprocket (or rim), bar, and chain all together. And there are advantages/disadvatages to each, not go into now.

k

Yup. Training wheels for me. I'm not ashamed.
I'll be mostly cutting 8-15" limb-less logs to length. Should I ask them to switch it to .375 and would it be reasonable to ask them to include it in the price if they keep the .325 parts ? This is a 50.7 cc saw. No need to explain in detail, just which width chain might be better for bucking.

 

[sl7vk]

Might be 'training wheels', but if I read it correectly that is what you need for now?

forgot: saws will run either .325 or .375, usually small ones are better on .325. But the sprocket or clutch drum and the bar tip sprocket must match the chain pitch, and the var slot must match the chain gauge (thickness) Most saws can run any, but you need to change sprocket (or rim), bar, and chain all together. And there are advantages/disadvatages to each, not go into now.

k

Yup. Training wheels for me. I'm not ashamed.
I'll be mostly cutting 8-15" limb-less logs to length. Should I ask them to switch it to .375 and would it be reasonable to ask them to include it in the price if they keep the .325 parts ? This is a 50.7 cc saw. No need to explain in detail, just which width chain might be better for bucking.

The price of the 5100s is not contingent on your sprocket.... That is to say, they should give you 3/8 inch chain and sprocket set up without it affecting the price.

I have both a 16, and 20 inch bar on mine. I use the 16" bar and 3/8 chain. That puppy screams Most go with an 18", as that is the most common setup.

I like 3/8 because there are less cutters to file.... Seems to cut faster if your saw can pull it too... Good setup.

 

[chad3]

A half dozen plastic wedges, the 6 inch ones, are invaluable for bucking even if you are not felling. If there is any question of bending in the log, start the cut down, set a couple wedges at 10 oclock and 2 oclock, and keep on going. very rarely stick a bar.

To keep them from sliding down onto the chain if the cut opens instead of closes, I drill a 3/8 hole crosswise near the thick end. Put some 3/8 nylon line through it, tie large knot on each side, and leave maybe 2 inch tail on each side. Catches the top of the cut and stops the wedge from dropping, in time to retrieve it. I still go through several a year, but don't launch as many off to center field by dropping onto the top chain run.

Stuck bars tear up motor mounts as usually the operator tries to jerk the saw free.

Great time to make a point about the most useful tool. Cut about a 2' section of limb and use it to hammer in these wedges. Great quick hammer. I use them every time I'm in the woods. Do it and see how much the bucking gets done faster.

 

[LLigetfa]

I've used wedges to fell a stubborn tree but never felt the need to use them when bucking. Buck on a horse, buck on skids, or buck most of the way through and roll the log over.