Newbie - Fisher

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New Member
Dec 5, 2014
Grand Rapids, MI
Thanks Begreen...I posted a couple weeks are the suggested pictures and details.
I bought a Fisher Grandpa Bear.. built a "non combustible" wall, I think...wall is 5' wide x 6 ' inch air space (maybe 3/4" by the time I got done drilling) Cement backer board with slate attached...nothing is looking too pretty yet. I am considering putting 1 X 6 pine on the walls surrounding my slate.

The "non combustible" wall has 3/4 cement backer board with slate attached. It hasn't fallen down yet. Whew.
There is between 3/4 and 1" airspace behind. It is raised up at least 2" off the floor to let air flow behind.

Stove is 35.5" to combustible wall, which is mostly windows.
Hearth pad is 6' x 5' with stove in the middle, 26" from stove feet (threshold) to end of hearth pad. 3/4 cement board under the same slate.

I plan to finish the rest of the room in 1 x 6 pine, tongue and groove, wall and floor. I wonder if the non combustible wall I built is not enough?

I have been trying to learn the Fisher stove and heat output....



Minister of Fire
Apr 9, 2008
Central NY
One suggestion: If you want to trim out the air space with ANYTHING on the border of that wall protection, you need to leave gaps specified by the NFPA211 for the air to circulate between the protection and the combustibles behind it.


Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
South Puget Sound, WA
Yes, pine trim needs to be at least 36" away from the stove. It could be trimmed on the side with aluminum or steel angle iron painted black for a picture frame look. The top needs to stay open for ventilation, but the same metal in flat stock could be screwed to continue the look across the top if desired.


Fisher Moderator
Staff member
Dec 22, 2007
You built a heat shield, not non-combustible wall. If you used 1 inch spacers, it can't get closer to the wall that that unless the wall is uneven......... The shield won't fall away from wall if screws penetrate at least 1 inch into wall studs behind it.
Don't know what you mean by if the heat shield is enough; larger air spaces at the bottom would be better, like setting on half bricks. It's all about air flow.

Wall Clearance Min. listed to shield.gif This diagram shows the size required.

If it doesn't have a baffle inside the stove, that is the single easiest thing that makes the most difference you can do. Later stoves had them. You can slow the draft with pipe damper, but that doesn't do what a baffle inside does. The baffle thread in Fisher Forum gives details and pictures.

Operating tips;
Spin draft caps a few turns open. When starting, listen. If it roars up the stack, slowly close pipe damper to slow fire. You don't want all the heat up the chimney that can be used in the stove to start larger pieces. You can slow the roar closing intakes, but that slows it by reducing oxygen. You don't want to do that until up to temperature.
Slowly close air intakes as larger pieces catch. Once up to temp, about 1 turn open of each draft cap is close. Opening or closing a bit more or less for heat output required. If you hear any sizzle or see any moisture bubble out of ends of wood, it's not dry enough.
You will need a thermometer on pipe to judge where you're running as far as chimney temp. That is the important thing. The object is to keep the inside of chimney flue above 250* all the way to the top. More than that is waste, but you have to have a certain amount of waste to be sure you stay above that critical temperature. That's only when you have visible smoke. Once in the coal stage, it doesn't matter. Check chimney frequently until you know how much creosote you create.
When removing ash, leave about an inch on the bottom. If burning 24/7 and not allowing to go out to clean ash, it will burn down to ash in the front behind air intakes the most. You should have a pile of glowing coals in the middle or rear in the morning. Open damper and intakes to get the glowing pile to heat the chimney a bit. Open doors and shovel only ash from front into metal bucket. Keeping bucket close to door opening so any fly ash will be pulled into stove and up chimney, instead of making dust in the house. Rake coals and some ash ahead and kindle fire on it. This way you never need to allow stove to get cold to remove ash. If you do have a cold stove, twist up some newspaper and light it near the back of stove to preheat chimney and start a draft. Remove ash letting the draft pull any airborne ash into stove.
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