I've got a pe super27 in a 1200 sqft bungalow in Ontario Canada I'm looking at how to get the longest burn out of it though the night .we use it as our main heat source in the winter .any info would be great . Our house walls have r12 roof r12 with about 8" blowin ontop
Night burn
- Thread starter Mark1000
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Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
First, good dry wood is a must. White ash is decent for night burns, but certainly higher density wood like oak would be a bit better. Allow coals to burn down so that you are not “ loading a hot stove”. Have primary air mostly to full open. Opt to use your larger splits and fill box as much as possible. Once wood is reasonably ingnited, begin turning down primary air in increments ( for just long enough to ensure that the wood flame still visible). Keep doing that until your primary air is close to closed (or fully closed if your wood is really dry.). I’d practice this by doing this procedure during the day when you know you’ll be around to monitor who it’s going.
Nick Mystic
Minister of Fire
Something I've noticed is that big rounds seem to take longer to burn than splits. For example, if you can fit a 6" or even 8" round in the stove it will take longer to burn down than a split of equal size. I think this might be related to rounds having less exposed surface area than splits.
IMHO a long burn can be dirty burn, modern stoves try to burn clean at low loads but its pushing the limit. Generally a high density wood helps but white ash is not one of them.
CTWoodtick made some good suggestions. The Super 27 gets a good overnight burn. Our next door neighbor has this stove and he can regularly go 8-10hrs between reloads burning alder, soft maple and doug fir. Turning down the air at the right time while burning thick splits will help. A stove pipe thermometer is a big help in knowing when to close down the air.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
@Ctwoodtick has some great advice on running the stove.. one of the things that i have found is how the wood is split as well as the type of wood. The more BTUS in the box the more heat you get out of it. Its also how you split your wood. When im splitting i make regular (pie shape) like everyone else . But also split specifically for my overnight burns. So when running the splitter i will split in squares.. like 4x4 .. 5x5.. 6x6 and so on. This allows me to stack and fill the box fully with out alot of airspace. The more wood the longer the burn.. the thicker the wood the longer the burn. Iv gotten over 14 hr burns in my stove with this method. When im bringing wood into the house. I have 2 racks by the stove. 1 for day, 1 for night.. the square ones go in the night rack. The others get burned during the day.. thick wood and packed tight = maxim burn time..
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Chas0218
Minister of Fire
Saw last year that your loadd had a lot of square or rectangular pieces compared to triangles so this year i figured i would give it a shot. I wanted to see which would take longer to burn and which would season faster.
O.P. white ash has a very close btu rating to red oak so i wouldn't try to source red oak over white ash if you have the ash plentiful. If you could get your hands of hickory, ironwood/hophornbeam that would give you a little longer burns.
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NateH
Member
Last year was our first year burning (Jotul 500) and we have mostly white ash and were very happy with it. We had some good overnight burns prob maxed out at about 8 hours and the coals were burnt down but def still there and allowed us to reload w no problem.
Good idea. Oak lends itself especially well to splitting like this. Can’t tell if that’s what is in your pic.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Yep. Red oak, it’s about 90% of what I’ve burned the last three years.
Now I seem to be in a run of hauling white oak and hickory, all depends on where I’m harvesting.
Scale is tough to perceive, those logs are all 15 feet long.
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Man you have such bad luck. Red oak normally, but you poor guy, now you’re finding white oak and hickory. Tough break
I love hickory. They stay healthy around here though. Hard to come by. I have about 1 cord of shagbark ready for this season. Been drying for 3 years. The rest for this year is red oak, cherry and ash. also 3 years dry.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
We had a tornado rip thru, and tear down about a hundred cords of white oak, and another hundred cords of other mixed hardwoods, mostly hickory. Bad news for our local shady picnic grove and adjacent woods, but good news for anyone who can make use of white oak and hickory. Another buddy down the street had the same tornado tear down a dozen very large ash trees, which I may fetch this fall, if I can find a place to put them.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Mark1000 hasn't even logged in since he quoted his own post twice last Friday evening. A lot can happen in four days. At least we're doing him the favor of bumping his thread back to the top of the list. 
I'm happy to here everyone's replies I'm going to try these methods. I've also discovered when cleaning out my stove my ash dump had some sort of ash like buildup that was preventing it to close tight so I cleaned it now it shuts tight might have been a problem . I can't believe the replies I've got I am grateful for all your help .
Ash dump trap doors can get a clinker or chip of charcoal stuck in it that prevents tight closure. It's good to watch out for that. I don't use the ash dump system at all on the T6. It stays buried under an inch or two of ash.
Can you describe the flue system on this stove in detail from stove to top cap? Is there a thermometer on the stovepipe about 18" above the stove?
Can you describe the flue system on this stove in detail from stove to top cap? Is there a thermometer on the stovepipe about 18" above the stove?
No thermometer I've pondered adding one non spark arrestor cap telescopic double wall stove pipe around 6' up to a insulated 3' from base of the stove up to the top of chimney is about 12' . Also no damper. I've pondered adding another 3' insulated pipe to give me the minimum 15' I believe your suppose to have.
The Super 27 can often work on a shorter chimney. If you are getting good secondary burn and no smoke spillage then it may be ok. I recommend adding a probe thermometer. That will help a lot in determining when to close down the air. Stove top temp is not the best guideline, especially with a cold start.
So on a side note would a chimney thermometer be a better investment then a stovetop one ?
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
Stovetop thermometers are useful for detecting overfire, as many stove manufacturers specify a maximum stovetop temperture. But I'd say that those with a chimney thermometer, particularly the probe type, probably favor "driving" by that.
I had both, on my prior stoves. My decisions on when to close the bypass damper (cat stove) or turn down the air, were mostly based on the chimney thermometers. But I would still watch the stovetop one, to ensure I wasn't violating the manufacturer's maximum allowable stovetop temp.
On my new stoves, I only have the chimney thermometer, as the stove manufacturer does not list any maximum allowable stovetop temp. I wait until the chimney thermo hits 500F, close my bypass (more cat stoves), and then just set a timer for 20 minutes, before turning down to desired temperature.
I like to have both on a non-cat, but if I had just one it would be a probe thermometer in this case. They are inexpensive and help provide status for the burn and the stove.
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