Hello, all. This is my first post--I'm new to this. Here goes...I have an Aurora wood burning insert in a masonry chimney. It is vented through an 8 in. home saver flex liner. The last time I had it swept I was told I had no damper. So here's my question. On the back of my insert is a stainless rectangle by 8 in. round adaptor. While researching online, I found a cast iron insert adaptor that would probably work on my insert. Is it possible to install a damper in the adaptor? Also, if I damper it down, since it's only an insert, will the gases and exhaust remain hot enough to not condensate up my 20 ft. high, 8 in. round chimney? Should it have been a 6 in. liner? Many questions...just want to do it right.
No damper
- Thread starter charles b
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Hi Charles. I'm not familiar with the insert. Does it NEED a damper? Most (all?) modern inserts I can think of aren't designed with one and are controlled by the air controls instead.
How old is the insert? Is it EPA approved? Does it have a 6 or 8 inch flue collar?
How old is the insert? Is it EPA approved? Does it have a 6 or 8 inch flue collar?
The insert is approximately 30 yrs. old. I do have air controls on the front. No matter how much air I allow it or not allow it to have, the fire doesn't slow down. The unit does have what looks to be a rod that would control the damper but is not hooked up to anything. I thought if I could damper it down that it would burn slower. Right now I have to feed it every 2 hrs. Is my thinking flawed?
Nope. With the old tanks ya need a flue damper to hold the smoke in the stove long enough to give as much as possible a chance to burn.
Not to steal your thread, but I've been wondering the same thing about my new stove. The manual says it doesn't require one, but would putting one in have any advantages? It is an EPA stove.
I decided to put my damper back in when they relined my chimney with a S/S liner because I expected better draft and also on those windy days I tend to get here.. Dampers are inexpensive and restrict the air very little when wide open but allow me to stifle the draft a bit if we get a noreaster here.. I have seen dampers online and they run about $6.00 so it wouldn't break the piggy bank.. I did run a couple years without one and could have used it a few times..
Ray
Ray
If it's an older insert a damper may help keep it from burning through wood too quickly. Make sure the door gaskets and such are as tight as possible to eliminate air leaks, and then if it still rips through wood too quickly install a simple keyway damper. Just keep an eye on it and make sure things don't smolder to low. Check your chimney often.
charles b said:
sounds like you have some gasekts that are leaking air, have you inspected those? meaning, if you can close down you primary air and the fire is still "roaring" that means it is still getting air somewhere. in this case a damper will help some, if you can assure there is no leaks in your gaskets and install a damper i think you can get the results that you want. there are still tricks with dampers; you have to make sure your stack temps stay at a acceptable temp and regularly check the chimney for build-up. a guy cannot learn how to burn wood overnight
it doesnt take long but there is a sweet spot in all stoves.........
weezer4117 said:charles b said:
sounds like you have some gasekts that are leaking air, have you inspected those? meaning, if you can close down you primary air and the fire is still "roaring" that means it is still getting air somewhere. in this case a damper will help some, if you can assure there is no leaks in your gaskets and install a damper i think you can get the results that you want. there are still tricks with dampers; you have to make sure your stack temps stay at a acceptable temp and regularly check the chimney for build-up. a guy cannot learn how to burn wood overnight
+1 a damper is no substitute for leaking gaskets..
Ray
The flue temperature was an original concern of mine also. I don't know why they installed an 8 in. instead of a 6 in. liner. The back of the insert has a rectangular opening and they used a stainless adaptor to get to 8. Most of what I've been looking at in stores or online have 6 in. collar on the back. How much more of a buildup will there be if the temperature doesn't stay high enough? That's not a road I want to go down. Back when I used to work at a lumber yard and sold some HVAC materials, I remember the guidelines on flue size were very strict--condensation before exiting stack was the biggest concern. What's being vented here I know is like comparing apples to oranges to that. Concept still the same. My thinking flawed?
charles b said:
MOST all of the older inserts were installed in what is called a "slammer" instalation, meaning it was slid into a masonary fireplace, sealed and thats it. the stove vented through the trianglar flu rite up the masonary chimney with no adapters. when firecodes changed adapters and insulated liners were installed for exta precautions, insurance. etc.... now, aslo most or your older stoves will require the adapter into a 8" chimney liner so im sure you will be fine there. as far as buildup (creo) goes that all depends on how well the liner is insulated, internal/external chimney, dryness of wood, species of wood......once you check your gaskets (fix if need be) and install a damper you will have to play around with it and learn how your stove/chimney work together. but overall i think you have a acceptable setup just lack of expierence
! CHECK YOUR GASKETS, once the fire gets out of control you wont stop it!!Thank you! I have a somewhat decent grasp on what needs done, I just don't want to make a mistake. Lord knows making a mistake on something like this means alot of sirens and heartache.
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