Non-perforated flue damper?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

1869_Caboose

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 31, 2010
14
New Jersey
Hi All,

I am looking to replace my current 6-inch flue damper for my pot belly stove. The one I have now is perforated--a few holes right across the middle of the damper. I can't control my draft as much as I'd like to and thought getting a solid, non-perforated damper might help. Is there such a thing?
 
Nah. They have to let something through to keep you from asphyxiating yourself.
 
I fabbed a 'no holes' one for myself, but there's likely enough leakage around the edges to keep me alive to this day.

BB is right... in essence... the holes are there for a reason.

Peter B.

-----
 
A solid damper ?? Hell no !!! as BB said that is a good way to be asphyxiating yourself. There must be another way to get better control.

Shawn
 
Our damper has those holes in it too, We looked around all of them had the holes, they are there for a reason as the others have said. The factory installed "damper" in the englander 12 we used to have did not have holes but I don't think it would close tightly. The manual said it was not to be utilized as a damper control, only to be used in the summer months I think, I may be wrong, never claim to be right all the time only when it comes to nuclear medicine......something I know well, not woodburning stoves.
 
Sorry I didn't post the reason why I want to switch out the old damper. It has to do with the smoky downdraft I get out of the pot belly stove whenever I burn in the woodburning fireplaces--the two chimneys are about 6 feet from each other at the top of the roof, the potbelly's being about 2 feet shorter than the fireplace's. I was going to fully close the new damper only when the woodburning fp was running; I'd never close it during a burn in the potbelly stove...
 
I have Excel stovepipe, and requested installation of their stovepipe damper with the stove. I have regretted not having taken it out of the box and looking it over before the install guys put it in. I've not had my stovepipe apart to inspect/clean this season--(tried, but the telescoping section did not easily yield to my attempt, and I decided it wasn't broke, so I wasn't going to fix it until spring). When I do, I intend to look it over carefully, but the pix I saw at their website show no perforations in the actual damper. I'm concluding that the stops on these (you can only turn it a quarter-turn) must be intermittent, allowing for air movement around the outside of the pipe (which makes sense in terms of preventing creosote buildup on the pipe--I think). These are pricier than most dampers I've seen, but it did not make sense to me to buy an expensive stove and chimney and cheap out on the damper.

I've been very glad that I bought and installed this damper. Didn't use it at first because Stove Store Guy said it wasn't recommended for my stove. Then Stove Store Owner said, "Use judiciously," and I have, ever since. Keeps my house warmer, makes fires last longer, and I have no evidence of creosote buildup. I throw one of those creosote-prevention bricks in once a month, per recommendation of SSO.
 
snowleopard said:
I have Excel stovepipe, and requested installation of their stovepipe damper with the stove. I have regretted not having taken it out of the box and looking it over before the install guys put it in. I've not had my stovepipe apart to inspect/clean this season--(tried, but the telescoping section did not easily yield to my attempt, and I decided it wasn't broke, so I wasn't going to fix it until spring). When I do, I intend to look it over carefully, but the pix I saw at their website show no perforations in the actual damper. I'm concluding that the stops on these (you can only turn it a quarter-turn) must be intermittent, allowing for air movement around the outside of the pipe (which makes sense in terms of preventing creosote buildup on the pipe--I think). These are pricier than most dampers I've seen, but it did not make sense to me to buy an expensive stove and chimney and cheap out on the damper.

I've been very glad that I bought and installed this damper. Didn't use it at first because Stove Store Guy said it wasn't recommended for my stove. Then Stove Store Owner said, "Use judiciously," and I have, ever since. Keeps my house warmer, makes fires last longer, and I have no evidence of creosote buildup. I throw one of those creosote-prevention bricks in once a month, per recommendation of SSO.
Did you notice any difference in stove top temps and flue temps?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.