noob woodstove:DIY install? used v new?

[vap0rtranz]

Hi, noob here but been lurking for months and found great info here at Hearth, so ty for sharing. I've got a couple questions that I hope you all would weigh in on:

1) How much skill is needed to DIY a woodstove install?

I've watched a few videos on the install process including stovepipe & chimney, read folks experiences here, ... some people say they don't ever use their dealer/installer again except to order replacement parts. The closest dealer spitballed a $1k-2k figure for install -- but we're having him come out to give a firm estimate b/c it sounds like his # is low. The stovepipe, chimney, non-stove parts plus labor look more expensive than $1k-2k, so I fear the dealer is only giving a parts OR a labor #, not a total install #.

Also: these stoves weight a ton!! How do DIYers actually move them onto the hearth?

2) Avoiding problems by doing it right the 1st time: poor / excessive draft, backpuffing, overfiring, etc.

I've read a few manuals by the manufacturers and read posts here on how to avoid problems like poor draft / starvation, "jet engine" draft, overfiring. It sounds like a couple things should be done at install to help prevent these:

a) total draft should be at least to spec (so length from stove to cap)
b) avoid 90 degree elbows
c) avoid reducers in pipe
d) keep pipe inside home as much as possible (avoid external chimney)
e) outside / fresh air kit

Wouldn't points (b) & (d) get rid of installing the pipe to an external chimney going through a side wall with thimble? Even though manufacturers allow that in their install manuals. So best option is to install straight up through the roof?

Are additional dampers in pipe, like in the chimney connect / stove pipe, and/or the fresh air intake pipe, recommended? I'd think installing more dampers could help fine tune draft if there's a "jet engine" problem. In Wisconsin, we get strong winter winds from the SW ... thoughts on dealing with draft and winter winds?

3) Is now the time to buy new??

Won't manufacturers be liquidating non-EPA 2020 stoves this year? The local dealer seemed to be hinting at discounts coming. In the previous round of EPA requirements -- was it 2015? -- did manufacturers dump their inventory of stoves that didn't meet the new EPA requirements? If not, is end-of-winter still the best time of year to get discounts on new stoves?

Hopefully the above questions are not too much for a noob

Justin

 

[begreen]

DIY depends on one's skill level, the scope of work, time available, how well one does their homework and follows directions.

Yes, there are some good deals, but it's important to do the research ahead of time so that one doesn't grab a bargain that turns out to be not such a good deal because it's a bad fit due to flue size or clearance requirements. Plan ahead.

 

[MoDoug]

I installed my stove and pipe, it's been up and running for about 6 weeks now. I'm a DIY'er and figured this was within my limits. It had it's challenges, but I got it done. One install does not make me an expert, I'm sure every install is different.

Just a few quick thoughts;

First and foremost is safety. On the back of the stove is a manufacturer plate, detailing clearance to combustibles, and other requirements. At a minimum meet those requirements, preferably exceed them.

Take pictures and document everything you do, besides for you own use, this is for the inspection your insurance company will require. Find someone ahead of time that will do the inspection.

Make sure there's no wiring, pipes or whatever to deal with where you want to run your pipe through the roof or wall. Cutting into my cathedral ceiling and roof was the most stressful part for me, it was one shot to get it right.

I had the stove on a dolly to roll around the room, until neighbors helped move the stove into place. I removed the fire bricks and ash tray to make it lighter.

My stove has a built in damper and the manufacturer specifically says to not install another one. I had to buy a stove pipe adapter to fit the pipe onto the top of the stove. Dry fit what you can ahead of time to help get familiar with it before the install.

Study your stove, get to know and understand how it works.

 

[vap0rtranz]

>this is for the inspection your insurance company will require.

Ah, do many jurisdictions require a permit? I hadn't gotten that far along in the process to ask the local town office.

>until neighbors helped move the stove into place.

OK so what I guessed: need some muscles.

Thx MoDoug.

 

[MoDoug]

>this is for the inspection your insurance company will require.

Ah, do many jurisdictions require a permit? I hadn't gotten that far along in the process to ask the local town office.

>until neighbors helped move the stove into place.

OK so what I guessed: need some muscles.

Thx MoDoug.

The inspection I'm referring to was for my insurance company, I wanted to make sure they were aware of it and make sure I have coverage in case the unthinkable happens. My insurance was ok with me doing the install as along as I had it professionally inspected and a letter of approval. I'm thinking (assuming) you will want to notify your insurance company as part of your planning to make sure they're ok with it and their requirements. Your insurance company may require it to be professionally installed. If they're ok with you installing, but need a professional inspection, you'll want to find a certified sweep ahead of time and make sure they're ok with inspecting something they did not install.

You jurisdiction may or may not codes, that is definitely something to check on sooner than later. There are no codes where I live, even the volunteer fire department wouldn't come out to look it over.

As far as muscle goes, my stove weighs 300 lbs, and I think it's on the light side.

 

[Ludlow]

My stove says it weighs 320 lbs. Took the brick out and the door off and two of us just lifted it and moved it. Many stoves are heavier.