I am replacing a old heatilator zc fireplace and thinking of replacing it with the northstar any comments good or bad and issues I should know about. I am doing the work my self.Thanks Mark
northstar
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We currently burn two of them in our showrooms...They are kick-a$$ heaters.
They are also very large units & may not fit into your existing chase,
unless the inside framed width is around 6 feet.
The outside air attachment on the right side of the Northstar dictates this requirement...
We actually fabricate an offset adapter for this when the interior width of the
chase is LESS than the required 6 feet.
They are also very large units & may not fit into your existing chase,
unless the inside framed width is around 6 feet.
The outside air attachment on the right side of the Northstar dictates this requirement...
We actually fabricate an offset adapter for this when the interior width of the
chase is LESS than the required 6 feet.
Yes I have about 8 feet wide,It is in the lower level of our split foyer house,I am going to have mantle issues getting the 60 inches
just ordered the northstar today got 25 % off. Now comes the hard part tearing out the old heatilator and pipe
Is your old unit a "Heatilator" brand fireplace? If it is, and uses 8" pipe, there is a good chance it is the SL300 pipe, which the Northstar also uses. We just did installs this month where we re-used the old pipe from a heatilator wood unit.
I installed one last year, this is my second seaon burning with it.
It's a good unit. On days like today, when it's 35 out, it blows me out of my 2500sqft 28' ceiling home. On a 10 degree day it's a different story,but it keeps us warm. On colder days (like below 15-10 degrees F or so) we have to run the furnace in the AM to put the home back to temp. Once at temp, the North Star will keep it there without much issue. During the night though, unless you only sleep 4 hours, it'll lose the BTU loss battle with this home during an 8-10 hour burn. Only on the colder days though. 15-20 or above, and she does just fine. LIke today, I get 10+ hours of burn time on a load of wood with a 7 degree swing (meaning, it'll heat up the home rather quickly to 75-76, and then burn 8 hours or so and the home will start cooling down very slowly).
Every home is different, in a differnt location, so your results may vary, but I'm happy with it.
Couple of installation tips to watch for.
If your installing in a 2x6 wall, watch out. Make sure you can put your header up way high. It's designed for a 2x4 wall and if you read the dimension drawing correctly (which I did, but didn't seem to fully register, doah!), it shows the chimney won't install in a 2x6 wall unless you have room enough in height to fit the offset to get it behind the 2x6 wall fully with the proper clearance.
Make sure an put the CAK4 chimney air kit on. Seems some installers like to leave it out. This is not the OAK, this is the chimney air kit that vents the outer layer of the SL300 pipe that is the only pipe certified for this unit. (drab)
Make sure your chimney chase is insulated all the way up and you keep that chimney as warm as possible.
Operational tips:
It works great. I don't have a complaint on it. Aside from perhaps when not it use cold air drafts around the bottom. Yes, it has the OAK close off door, and yes it's closed, even closed though, that thing gets COLD when not in use. Oh, and I'm not too happy with the SL300 pipe. It's kinda cheapy pipe, I really wish they would have certified the duraplus insulated stuff. I think it would be much better in cold climates. But the SL300 works I guess, I just get paranoid and feel I have to run a brush down it 3-4 times a season. Oh, and perhaps the fan is a touch too loud on the the highest speed,but, ahh..it's ok, it's constant at least.
It is a nice unit, it heats nice.
It's a good unit. On days like today, when it's 35 out, it blows me out of my 2500sqft 28' ceiling home. On a 10 degree day it's a different story,but it keeps us warm. On colder days (like below 15-10 degrees F or so) we have to run the furnace in the AM to put the home back to temp. Once at temp, the North Star will keep it there without much issue. During the night though, unless you only sleep 4 hours, it'll lose the BTU loss battle with this home during an 8-10 hour burn. Only on the colder days though. 15-20 or above, and she does just fine. LIke today, I get 10+ hours of burn time on a load of wood with a 7 degree swing (meaning, it'll heat up the home rather quickly to 75-76, and then burn 8 hours or so and the home will start cooling down very slowly).
Every home is different, in a differnt location, so your results may vary, but I'm happy with it.
Couple of installation tips to watch for.
If your installing in a 2x6 wall, watch out. Make sure you can put your header up way high. It's designed for a 2x4 wall and if you read the dimension drawing correctly (which I did, but didn't seem to fully register, doah!), it shows the chimney won't install in a 2x6 wall unless you have room enough in height to fit the offset to get it behind the 2x6 wall fully with the proper clearance.
Make sure an put the CAK4 chimney air kit on. Seems some installers like to leave it out. This is not the OAK, this is the chimney air kit that vents the outer layer of the SL300 pipe that is the only pipe certified for this unit. (drab)
Make sure your chimney chase is insulated all the way up and you keep that chimney as warm as possible.
Operational tips:
It works great. I don't have a complaint on it. Aside from perhaps when not it use cold air drafts around the bottom. Yes, it has the OAK close off door, and yes it's closed, even closed though, that thing gets COLD when not in use. Oh, and I'm not too happy with the SL300 pipe. It's kinda cheapy pipe, I really wish they would have certified the duraplus insulated stuff. I think it would be much better in cold climates. But the SL300 works I guess, I just get paranoid and feel I have to run a brush down it 3-4 times a season. Oh, and perhaps the fan is a touch too loud on the the highest speed,but, ahh..it's ok, it's constant at least.
It is a nice unit, it heats nice.
73blazer said:
I removed a heatilator unit and installed the Northstar back in '04. I like the unit but only recently have I noticed the cold air draft from the bottom of the unit. For five years I had never noticed it. I thought maybe something came loose somehow and was very close to posting to see if anyone else had this issue or a solution to the problem. I may call the company to see if they have any suggestions.
I used to be paranoid about cleaning the flue but whenever I cleaned it all I'd get is powder... no chunks, so I let it go to once a year and even at that it doesn't look necessary.
I originally wanted the Regency model but didn't like the looks of the upper vent on the one they offered back then. Their new model looks very nice as it's been redesigned.
Stay warm! I know I am.
Keith
If your house gets negative pressure, the air is going to come in any place it can. I ran into one this year where the customer make-up air duct for the house was totally plugged with debris on the outside cap / screen. After I cleaned it off I could feel the air being pulled into it. That stopped a lot of the air pulling in under his northstar.
JTP you where right the northstar is one great heater. I could have went with a smaller zc unit for my size house but i am happy with the northstar.It looks like I am getting a air leak from the top of both doors almost in the middle is this common with this units.Also paint is flaking of the left door. Thanks Mark
If paint is falling off you might be over-firing it, or just a defective paint job in that spot.
The top middle there is a small screw stud I believe. Have not seen any major air leaks there though. Make sure you are not over cranking your door handle, it will bow the doors and make them not as tight on the top. The right handle should but out and an angle just like the left handle when closed. If you push the right hand to straight down or further you are probably tightening the door too much. People always want to crank on the door handles for all the stoves until it wont move anymore, but there are a few units where this is too tight.
The top middle there is a small screw stud I believe. Have not seen any major air leaks there though. Make sure you are not over cranking your door handle, it will bow the doors and make them not as tight on the top. The right handle should but out and an angle just like the left handle when closed. If you push the right hand to straight down or further you are probably tightening the door too much. People always want to crank on the door handles for all the stoves until it wont move anymore, but there are a few units where this is too tight.
Maybe not major air leak but leaves dirty spots on inside of glass comming down from top where the screw studs are, or is this just the air wash. I do not think I am over firing looks like a bad paint job it is just on one door should my dealer be able to get me a new one.Not over cranking on door handle it is at the same angle as the left door .Thanks for the infojtp10181 said:
The dirty streaks could be from the air wash being blocked where the gap screws are. If the fire is hot enough it should burn it all off, but on a lower burn I could see it doing that.
If the dealer is smart they will just repaint that door, they could also replace it if needed. I think when a new door is ordered, they come as a set.
If the dealer is smart they will just repaint that door, they could also replace it if needed. I think when a new door is ordered, they come as a set.
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